12 Second N/A Slant 6?

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What are you using for valves?

I know there's more to it than the valves, but that's a starting point.

Sorry I missed this. Yes. I used stock 318 valves. Since they were longer, I had custom spacers made to relocate the rocker shaft closer to the valves the correct amount to correct rocker geometry. Since the valves face away from the rocker shaft on the slant, the longer the valve, the further away the tip moves from the rocker, so that had to be addressed. But it's all good now.
 
so do you want a 13 second NA slant and run NO2 or a 12 second NA build? mine runs 14.25's with a bad miss due to an over gear but it should be a solid 13.75 car with the bugs worked out, a street car.

if you want more info let me know
 
I am not up on head work, but something you might want to consider, is using a valve with a smaller stem. There should be a "metric" valve with a 7mm stem and a longer stem length, that would fit. A "adapter" guide would be installed.
 
I am not up on head work, but something you might want to consider, is using a valve with a smaller stem. There should be a "metric" valve with a 7mm stem and a longer stem length, that would fit. A "adapter" guide would be installed.

yea this is something i will be doing on my next build
 
He used 318 valves...Here the whole thread link on his ported head:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=182649
1wildandcrazyguy ported mine which had 1.70/1.44 valves in it and flowed just under Rob's...

Then that right there shows how much of a gift Justin has. My porter here has been doing it longer than Justin has been a live, yet Justin came close to his numbers......and with smaller valves. You guys out there that aren't using Justin that could, really should be giving him a shot. He's very smart about head flow.
 
I've been hotrodding long enough to know that the heads are then heart of any perormance build.

Regardless of carburation, manifold, headers or cams, it all has to flow through the heads.

I'm looking at the long tube equal length Aussie intake manifold for drivability across the RPM range W/a nice FAT torque curve.

Small 4 bbl carb (Carter WCFB?)

Smallish primary tube diameter long tube headers.

Looking for 5000 RPM shift points W/the ability to pull 5500 W/O falling on it's face.

I'm willing to spend some $$$$ on the heads, but I also realize that titanium widgets & other high RPM stuff is a waste of money. (think Harley Big Twin stroker)

.035" to .040" quench height on the head deck. 10.5:1 ish CR.

Must run on 93 octane pump gas.

Will have 125HP shot of giggle gas just for fun, but primarily a N/A engine.

Can someone post some links to a source for headwork that will listen to my requirements & work W/me on a reasonable combination.

I like the idea of small stem metric valves. If OEM parts can be used so much the better to keep costs down.

I'm going W/89mm 2.2L Chrysler pistons & looking to offset grind the crank/deck the block to achieve ideal deck specs. Stroking is not so much for displaceant as it is to make things "tidy".

So, in a nut shell:

10.5:1 CR 240ish cu in block W/a high lift medium duration cam (5000-5500 RPM peak HP W/FAT torque curve)

What do we put on top?

Who can help me attain this?

Oh yeah, 3500 RPM stall billit stator TC, 4.10 gears on 28" rubber.
 
Forget quench. You cannot acheive quench with a slant head.
 
All the same mods as any other engine. More compression, more flow, more carburetor, more exhaust......BUT the one place you really have to be careful with the slant is the camshaft. They are really easy to overcam since they lack cubic inches. Did you follow the link that was posted to my cylinder head thread? I plan to run an 800 Thermoquad on mine. But then thermoquads are kinda an out side the box carburetor.
 
Can someone post some links to a source for headwork that will listen to my requirements & work W/me on a reasonable combination.

Go to slantsix.org

If you want street headwork, look up Doug "Doc" Dutra

If you want race heads, find Mike Jeffrey (though you'll probably have to wait until next winter - it's farming season now and he does Slant 6 stuff in the winters)

(and you may want to listen to them, too - they're the /6 gurus for headwork :))

John
 
Go to slantsix.org

If you want street headwork, look up Doug "Doc" Dutra

If you want race heads, find Mike Jeffrey (though you'll probably have to wait until next winter - it's farming season now and he does Slant 6 stuff in the winters)

(and you may want to listen to them, too - they're the /6 gurus for headwork :))

John

This year will be disc brakes/8 3/4 rear. I won't be trying to go fast until the car will be up to the handling/braking needed.

After that it will be engine rebuild (at least the block) & beefing up the 904.

A high compression block can still be run W/the stock heads, etc. The rest would be bolt on that could be done W/tye engine in the car.

Can the cam be swapped in the car?

Cam would need to have the eads & induction improvements to work. I like to work in stages.

Right now I'm reasearching.
 
All the same mods as any other engine. More compression, more flow, more carburetor, more exhaust......BUT the one place you really have to be careful with the slant is the camshaft. They are really easy to overcam since they lack cubic inches. Did you follow the link that was posted to my cylinder head thread? I plan to run an 800 Thermoquad on mine. But then thermoquads are kinda an out side the box carburetor.

Yes pysics is physics, but where does one find the information/parts/vendors on needs.

Need to do something W/a Gen III Hemi or NAG 1 trans? I know where to find that & they don't do work on slant 6s.
 
I use Oregon for cam grinds. http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/ Jerry Killian did my cylinder head. http://killiansportingservice.com/ I have the KB239 non turbo 2.2 Chrysler 4 cylinder pistons to use on 198 rods. Howards offers slant grinds. Schneider does. Comp will grind one......for 250 frikkin dollars. Oregon will grind whatever you want on your stock shaft for 70 bucks. K1 Technologies offers a badass H beam 198 rod. Weisco offers forged pistons in the 2.2 style. What else are you lookin for?
 
I use Oregon for cam grinds. http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/ Jerry Killian did my cylinder head. http://killiansportingservice.com/ I have the KB239 non turbo 2.2 Chrysler 4 cylinder pistons to use on 198 rods. Howards offers slant grinds. Schneider does. Comp will grind one......for 250 frikkin dollars. Oregon will grind whatever you want on your stock shaft for 70 bucks. K1 Technologies offers a badass H beam 198 rod. Weisco offers forged pistons in the 2.2 style. What else are you lookin for?

That's the kind of info I'm looking for.

Are you useing OEM 198 rods W/the 2.2 pistons?

That's what I was thinking, but by the time one upgrades bolts. etc the cost would be pretty close to the K1 rods. That's what I had decided on.

What kind of lift is practical W/O exotic head work?
 
Yes, I have oe rods. What do you call "exotic" head work? Porting? I would guess no more than around 450 or so lift with te stock head. Like that biggest Comp solid grind. But they suck.
 
Yes, I have oe rods. What do you call "exotic" head work? Porting? I would guess no more than around 450 or so lift with te stock head. Like that biggest Comp solid grind. But they suck.

Porting has nothing to do with lift & I don't consider that exotic.

Why are you quoting stock head lift?

I'm willing to spend $$ for run of the mill machine work to increase lift capabilities.

I'm talking about aftermarket springs/retainers, possibly cutting the seats for the botton retianers.

None of that would be exotic.

I don't want to spend big $$$$ on longer stemmed valves, special rocker arms or such.

For some reason you don't seem to be taking me seriously or you assume I am not knowledhgable W/modified engines.
 
Porting has nothing to do with lift & I don't consider that exotic.

Why are you quoting stock head lift?

I'm willing to spend $$ for run of the mill machine work to increase lift capabilities.

I'm talking about aftermarket springs/retainers, possibly cutting the seats for the botton retianers.

None of that would be exotic.

I don't want to spend big $$$$ on longer stemmed valves, special rocker arms or such.

For some reason you don't seem to be taking me seriously or you assume I am not knowledhgable W/modified engines.

you can run more lift than the engine needs... lets just put it that way, .550 is easily had for clearance, but not getting that lift to the valve.

the problem is stock rockers are 1.35-1.42 lift ratio which drastically hurts duration to vavle lift ratio's. for the low rpm you want to pull your gonna be down around 235* or less @ .050 duration. so getting a lobe big enough get lift requires new rockers or as i may plan 1" lifters.

i bang mine of 6 grand with a stock bottom/ .080 over cast flat top pistons with no issues and can take a 150 shot all day.

with the short rpm constraints i think that converter is way to loose BTW, but without testing it you'll never know.
 
Not at all. No need to be insultingly presumptuous. I cannot read your mind. You've asked a lot of vague questions. How do I know what you consider exotic unless I ask? I need to know limitations, so I am asking. Simple as that.

Porting has nothing to do with lift & I don't consider that exotic.

Why are you quoting stock head lift?

I'm willing to spend $$ for run of the mill machine work to increase lift capabilities.

I'm talking about aftermarket springs/retainers, possibly cutting the seats for the botton retianers.

None of that would be exotic.

I don't want to spend big $$$$ on longer stemmed valves, special rocker arms or such.

For some reason you don't seem to be taking me seriously or you assume I am not knowledhgable W/modified engines.
 
I like what I am reading here now and seeing now that you're spending way more money than I once thought ( I was in the $2K budget range when you said not much money) I can now take this build seriously.

So we're looking at 198 Rods and 2.2L pistons: Awesome!
Aussie Speed Bolt ons: Also Awesome.

Since you are shooting for a street car and nitrous I know you are wanting to keep compression down but here is food for thought.

Ever heard of water methanol injection? Basically inject water and mehtyl alchohol into the combustion chamber to slow combustion. With water meth injection you can basically turn 93 octane fuel into 106-110 octane. I don't know how this will react with Nitrous but food for thought?
 
I like what I am reading here now and seeing now that you're spending way more money than I once thought ( I was in the $2K budget range when you said not much money) I can now take this build seriously.

So we're looking at 198 Rods and 2.2L pistons: Awesome!
Aussie Speed Bolt ons: Also Awesome.

Since you are shooting for a street car and nitrous I know you are wanting to keep compression down but here is food for thought.

Ever heard of water methanol injection? Basically inject water and mehtyl alchohol into the combustion chamber to slow combustion. With water meth injection you can basically turn 93 octane fuel into 106-110 octane. I don't know how this will react with Nitrous but food for thought?

I'm lookimg primarily for a N/A perormer that will take a moderate shot of nitrous.

I ran 10.4:1 on my 5.7 W/a custom cam that made 235# of cranking pressuer.

i wa sstill able to run aggressive ignition timing W/O spark retard until the trans shiftednto 4th gear (3.23 FDR & the engine lugged down.

I was still within 4° KR.

Tried W/M using the windshield washer resevoir but never saw much benefit. Some windshield washer solutions are high percentage mnethanol.

If I can't hit 12.99 when the DA is right at sea level or lower I settle for 13.4 or whatever. Any 13 second pass in high DA would be acceptable.

I've raced from MIR/Englishtown/Atco where DA can be negative in the spring & fall to Columbus, Ohio & Beanblossom, Indiana where DA will be way up there.

Must run on 93 octane unleaded, no W/M injection. Designed for maximum N/A performance, not a juice engine 10.5:1 CR. I just want to run a shot now & then.

A/F ratios can be run rich on the juice if needed to prevent detonation.

Are aftermarket or modified rockers an option?

Just what can I expect to spend on aftermarket (high ratio) rockers & how much for a set of ported heads W/oversized valves & valve spring/retainers.

I'm not looking to spend $$$ for high RPM use. I want heads that will breathe from 3000 to 5500 RPM W/a cam to optimize torque throughout that range..
 
I have over 1K in my head including all machine work, porting valves and parts. The benefit or roller rockers on the slant is really nothing. This has been fought over a lot. Call Rocker Arm Services and talk to Gary. Then can make you anything.
 
I have over 1K in my head including all machine work, porting valves and parts. The benefit or roller rockers on the slant is really nothing. This has been fought over a lot. Call Rocker Arm Services and talk to Gary. Then can make you anything.

and as i said the roller part, not much gained, the LIFT on a low duration cam is the benefit! but we have already made that game plan up..
 
and 10.5:1 is gonna be hard with a small cam... your dynamic will be really high, maybe to high. but until you get some final numbers its hard to calculate.
 
Yeah, mine is probably not gonna be 100% pump gas friendly. lol
 
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