14" fan + 360 = overheat

-
superdart

superdart

Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
Joined
Aug 26, 2004
Messages
1,150
Reaction score
38
Location
DFW, Texas
Well, I got my free Mr. Gasket 14" fan wired today. It moves a lot of air...HOT air, but it can't keep the temp under control.

I had the car in the garage, in Park, and it was 105 today, so the air it was drawing in wasn't the coolest. The fan was running flat out, and the temp kept creeping up, until my coolant tank started to overflow.


After thinking back, I believe I only put a 190 degree stat in the car, so I think I'm going to change it out for a cooler one, and try again. Either way I think it's going to need a bigger fan. The 14" probably flows enough air, but it really doesn't cover enough of the radiator. Maybe a 16" will work better.

I am running a stock style 2 core copper radiator. I may have to step to an aluminum. Anyone using one from FBO on the street?
 
Take your radiator to a radiator shop and ask them if they can recore to a 3 core. Thats what I did with mine. Copper cools better than aluminum for a given area. My 360 stays cool idling around in traffic with a stock 4 blade fan no shroud (although I wish I had a shroud, I would put my 5 or 7 blade fan on with a viscous fan clutch.) Also cheaper to get the factory radiator recored.
 
Hmm..I'd thought about a 3 core.

I had a seven blade A/C fan (with clutch) no shroud, and a hi volume MP water pump. In traffic it tended to run warm, and on our normal hot days it was really making me sweat (no pun intended).

Curious though, if copper cools better than aluminum, why does everyone want to install aluminum in thier cars?
 
I'd agree on not having enough radiator, and you might need a bigger fan and/or shroud. Just my .02cents

I can idle all day in 105* heat and wont go over 180*
fan.jpg
 
Aluminum is lighter. You can also make them thicker to hold more fluid and still not have the weight penelty of the copper.
I almost never ever had a day go above 100* here. (N.Y.) but it does happen once in a whihle every few years for a few days.
A hi-vol. water pump, good coolent in a good ratio, higher pressure cap and good air movement passed the rad are the main ingerediants (Hummm-sp!)
Anyway, after that, it's down to the tricks, water wetter, a plate on the back of the pump blades.
A thicker rad of 3 cores should do it well. 2 is not alot.
 
Are you using the stock fan, And the electric?

I am using the stock solid fan, And the electric as a Pusher.

Inside a garage, your not going to get the airflow;
that you will out on the road.
 
superdart said:
Hmm..I'd thought about a 3 core.

I had a seven blade A/C fan (with clutch) no shroud, and a hi volume MP water pump. In traffic it tended to run warm, and on our normal hot days it was really making me sweat (no pun intended).

Curious though, if copper cools better than aluminum, why does everyone want to install aluminum in thier cars?
Click to expand...


Because of the cost (aluminum is cheaper for the manufacturer in comparison to copper, not necesarily cheaper for you and me, they call that profit margin) cool factor (not refering to tempeture) push of advertising, ooooh aluminum=high tech 20th century light weight it is lighter but the difrence in a street car is negligeable 9-10 lbs or so), etc, etc. There is an article about a direct comparison of the cooling ability of a copper radiator to an aluminum one. aluminum copper comparison clicky and one more for good measure copper vs aluminum
 
I was using only the 14" electric puller instead of the engine fan.

Actually for my testing purposes I WANTED to test it in the garage. I figured if it could hold the temp in the garage with the electric, then it should work in the real world. Like I said..105 the day I tested it, ahd the ggarage was actually COOLER than that, thanks to my air conditioner.

The engine fan BARELY kept it under control, and even then it would run hot in traffic. At highway speeds it would run about 190-200* on a 105* day.

For sure I will change the T-stat, and upgrade the radiator (will check the links u left Kraby). Might still need a bigger fan though. Surface area just isn't there. We'll see......
 
Something to keep in mind is that a cooler thermostat only controls the initial opening temperature, It wont do anything for the temperature if the fan or waterpump isnt moving enough water or air, it might slow the overheating conditions onset - thats all. Put a three row radiator in it with a shroud and a 7 blade clutch fan - it'll stay cool.
 
Hey Goody that's a nice setup. What is it? Electric fan with some sort of stock fan shroud or is that all one piece?
 
I know the stat won't help the overall situation, but it's opening much later than I want it to. If I'm going to replace/mod the radiator, I'll put in the lower stat while I'm at it.

I would prefer to stick with an electric fan, now that I went to all the trouble to wire it in and make it look pretty. Once I have a better radiator, we'll see what type of fan setup I need.

I like the triple pass unit that US Radiator is advertising, but it has no trans cooler provisions. I have a large B&M 11" x11" cooler to put in for the trans fluid. But I wonder if this alone would be enough for the trans (along with a deep sump pan)? Just a thought...Since my radiator is pretty new, it's in good shape and it would probably be most cost effective to re-core it.

B&M fluid cooler

bmm-70274_w.jpg
 
OK, so it would appear that I have the oddball (and more expensive) 22x25 3/8 radiator, rather than the more common 18x22. So of course, it is more expensive to get one from US Radiator.

Are these radiators interchangeable? I can't imagine that Dodge had two different core supports just for a radiator. Does the 18x22 have a wider mounting flange?

US Rad says my B&M cooler should be enough for the transmission, if I want to go with the Tripleflow. But, I think just a 3 core with a good fan setup like Goody's will do the trick.

I'm going to call around and find out the cost to recore my unit before I get my heart set on a US Rad system.
 
I checked out the US radiator gig too. I think it is a nice setup and it will look stock. Still a little pricey but less than many aluminum setups. I'm with you on checking the recore option. Here is the quote for my 66 Valiant with a 340.


"Standard"The Standard core consist of 1/2" tubes on 9/16" centers(meaning the space from one tube to the next). This core is basically the same core option used in the factory models.However,with an increased fin count.

"High Efficiency" This core consist of 1/2" tubes 3/8" centers.By placing the the tubes on closer centers, we are able to increase the overall tube count of the radiator, thus increasing the water flow.This enables the fins to dissapate heat at a much quicker pace.

"Optima" The Optima consist of 1/2" tubes on 5/16" centers.However,with the optima it is recommended to add the triple flow option.This helps by keeping the water in the radiator a considerable amount longer (see triple-flow description below).

"Aluminum" Our aluminum line of radiator run two rows of one inch tubes on 3/8" centers.They are all medal (no epoxy).
Stamped tanks for longer life.

Shroud and electric fan setups are available for all radiator applications!!!!!!

"Triple flow"After three years of testing the leading radiators on the market today, (aluminum & copper/brass) we can honestly say our new Triple Flow™ radiator design is SIMPLY THE BEST. For pure temperature drop inlet to outlet no other radiator came close. The amazing amount of additional temperature drop is obtained by passing the hot coolant through the core and air stream three times before returning it to the engine. Until now, this unique baffle design was only available for "hard to cool" racing applications. However, U.S. Radiator now offers theTripleFlow™ design for all applications.

________________________________ Pricing________________________________
Standard:372.00
High Efficiency:455.50
Optima:495.00
Aluminum:n/a
Triple flow: Add $60.00
 
Orionsax7 said:
Hey Goody that's a nice setup. What is it? Electric fan with some sort of stock fan shroud or is that all one piece?
Click to expand...


Thanks, it's a stock fan for a Chevy HHR. Ya know, the GM Pt Cruisers. :thumbup: $76, brand new, including the stock wiring harness. I'll letcha know who to get it from if, if you're interested PM me. :salute:
 
I wouldn't worry about the thermostat. You want to warm up fast and then "stay" at the optimum operating temperature of about 195. That would be accomplished by a better and or cleaner radiator and cooling system. Have you considered taking the radiator to a shop to have it checked more thoroughly and possibly boiled out? Then maybe run a few flush-rinse cycles to get the gunk out of the block as well? Could be as simple as that.

It does not matter how much air you push or what thermostat is installed if the system cannot transfer the heat.
 
When I got my 360 out of the yard and tore it down, the water passages had a gritty pudding in it....I ttok it to a place called 'Reddistrip' in Allentown. That sucker looked brand spankin' new. Most of the guys around here take their blocks there for cleaning before machine shop. I'm going to use a Summit Alum radiator and trans cooler, stock shroud and 7 blade fan. I should have no problems cooling.
 
The radiator is new and has less than 2000 miles on it. It's just that this is the first summer I have driven it, and it doesn't like it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top