so let me start here. i am a complete novice when it comes to this trans. i am building a turbo 5.7 hemi. i refuse to put a auto behind it. i have been looking into using a A833 trans. my question is this. looking at brewers.com i noticed that they offer a 18 spline gear box for the a body. what is the difference between a A body and say a B body gear box? now my second question is this. i have been doing some research but have not found really any answers. if i go this route i am going to try and send my gear set to liberty and have them faceplated. i am also really loving the idea of possible using a v-gate shifter. has anyone done this? maybe you have some info and tips for me? what might be the weak points after this? thanks john
18 spline gear box in a early A body
- Thread starter jw97neon
- Start date
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19DART66
Well-Known Member
A body trans is about 4 inches shorter than B body and shifter location is different. A faceplated trans would be good for a strip car. For a street car I would say no, a street strip car depends on how comfortable you feel with floating a non syncro trans through the gears. I had Liberty build me an 833 with a syncro first, pro shifted second, and faceplated third and fourth, before I switched to a Jerico and I used a V gate on both trans in my 66 Dart. I have had no trouble driving either of these trans on the street just have to match road speed and rpm on up and down shifts. Here are a couple of pics of shifter.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Shifter location and tail shaft. IIRC, the early 64-65 883's were the same 18 spine boxes the Hemi's used, maybe a myth.
great thanks that is what i needed to know. i understand the faceplate setup. this car is a strip once in awhile street car. lucky me i have driven cars and big trucks with straight gears. what made you switch to a jerico? i have been looking into these as well.
19DART66
Well-Known Member
After grenading third gear in the Liberty prepped 833( because I had the wrong clutch in car). A major decision was made to make the car more bullet proof and I found a great deal on a Jerico DR4 wide gear. Soon after that I found another good deal on the right clutch(Mcleod 10 inch soft loc) that a racer sent back for a rebuild and never reinstalled. When it comes to a clutch, any clutch that hits hard is the wrong clutch and I am not a fan of dual disc clutches( too much mass on input shaft). Any clutch with a lot of static pressure like center force and rag clutches with more than 2600# pressure are going to break parts(a little slip in the clutch is your friend) The clutch that broke my 833 had 2000# static with a sintered iron disc and that hit way to hard. The clutch in the car now is turned up to 1500# on the street(with no slip) and under 900# at the strip. My 66 Dart has gone from a high 10.9, 11.0 car to 1.49 60ft 10.709 at 126 with just clutch adjustments and car is run through a full exhaust and street trim, just take clutch pressure out an bolt on the 9" by 26" slicks and gets over 13 mile to the gallon on pump 93 with the 4.10 gears.
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