1920 Holley carb question

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my71dart

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I have a slant six with a 1920 holley carb single barrel. I have idle problems and had the carb rebuilt, but I think the housing is warped because it isn't helping.

We troubleshot further found a vaccuum leak, fixed that, as well as on the distributor the vaccum advance was bad which was also replaced.

When trying to set the carb it won't change because I think something is wrong with the original parts. I don't think a rebuild will work anymore.

Does anyone know if this part would work? It says on the site that it is a reman 1920 replacement, new part number. What else would I need to buy? and will the kickdown linkage fit? Any advise would be steller!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-64-3114/
 
"Remanufactured" carburetors are often hopeless pieces of unworkable junk. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and 1920 repair/modification threads are posted here.
 
The carb was rebuilt twice so far and no change in the initial problem, which is it stalls when waiting for the light to change.

The idol screw doesn't change the idle speed even though it is being turned, and I was also told that when you hit the gas (ie. when the light changes), there is supposed to be a little "extra" gas to get the car moving, and whatever connection that makes it do that is fryed. Cannot be replaced by a rebuild.

I know nothing of carb rebuilding, so therefore I can't tell you if it is bullshit that the guy was telling me. At this point I just want to find another carb that is already rebuilt and ready to slap on the car with minor tuning.

Would you have any?
 
Hey . SS Dan is a standup guy and know his schtuff about slant sixes. Good luck! My two cents is if you are turning the mixture screw in and out and having no change in idle that carb has vaccum leaks a plenty. Could be a pourous ( I think I spelled that right?) casting. This will cause you nothing but headaches. Truth is if the carb has been poked around with a few times its pretty much time to get a new one and use that old one for a sinker next time you go after salmon or big channel cats.
Chas.
 
I went the re-build route thinking a Holley 1920 rebuilt by Holley would be done right. WRONG-O! First off, it was jetted with a 62 rather than the 52 that should have been in there. Then as things wore a bit, I discovered that the circlip that keeps the float on the hinge pin had been left off.

The Slantsix.org site has the 1920 repair guide available in .pdf format. It's 1.87 MB, so I can't attach it here.

The rest of the story:
The original carb that came with the car had a non-op accelerator pump. Bought the rebuild from AutoZone. It did not leak, it had all of the right ports and connections, and it worked right out of the box. Fuel mileage took a dive. Initially, Hemi-like fuel mileage attributed to change in exhaust manifold that removed all carb heat. After a while, the car would start, run for a few seconds then stall out. I pulled the air filter housing off and restarted the car. Fuel came out the carb vent and the car stalled. By this point I had heard plenty of horror stories of re-built carbs. Since I just needed to get the car running until I could get the 4 bbl on it, I bit the bullet and decided to rebuild my own rebuilt carburetor. I did research, downloaded the repair guide, and got after it. Have a clean work space, (I used old medicine bottles to keep the tiny parts from wandering off), and don't be in a hurry. The work isn't hard. I caught the jet issue right away. As I was doing prep on the 4 bbl, I noticed it had circlips on the floats. Looking closer at the 1920, I saw the ring on the hinge pin where a clip would go and installed one. Didn't see anything else wrong, so I buttoned it up. All works fine. Fuel mileage is MUCH better, now.

I got the carb rebuild kit (used only a circlip and the fuel bowl gasket) from AutoZone and the jet came from Summit Racing.
 
thanks! After talking to Dan and just previous experience with my 4 barrel holley carbs (I hate them edelbrock all the way on my cuda), I purchased a NOS one from Dan. Gonna have it rebuilt as all the parts are 40 years old, but at least I know the casing is good and I will have a working one when I am finished.

But yes I can relate to your holley horror story. I have had a few of those myself, and the holley that is on my car right now will become the spare and experimental rebuild (to self teach)
 
Wow can I sympathize with this issue!
I just went through 3 bad rebuilts from Advance. I then changed the brand of Rebuilder that they offered and wala... good to go! So, IF you get a rebuilt Holly 1920 from Advance pay the extra $15.00 and get the C-7065 (rebuilt in Winnipeg Eh!).

Later,
Bruce B.
 
Go to REALLY GOOD carburetor shop if there are no other options, and make sure they use a high quality rebuild kit. I have used this formula and got nothing but great results over the many years I've been at this (I know of a kick-*** shop in NJ who provides shipping, if any of you need to exercise this option....he's not a relative, he just does great work). This option is ALWAYS less expensive and preferable to buying the inferior garbage that the larger stores sell. The results are readily apparent.
You can try that, and of course, refer to these folks....they obviously know these cars.
 
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