I've never found one of those elusive grommets (yet). My cable was replaced at one point and the grommet is incorrect. It is too small and allows heat, noise, and smell in the car. tmm
1965 Dodge Dart Charger
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
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I've never found one of those elusive grommets (yet). My cable was replaced at one point and the grommet is incorrect. It is too small and allows heat, noise, and smell in the car. tmm
Mike! Send me your address and I will send you a good one for free.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Awesome!!!!!
Thank you very much. I will.
Dan! I think you know me by now! Well, up to now I have done what I can to use factory parts. The bearings, pistons and the rings are all the parts that is not Chrysler factory original.
But when you did mention this and my friend Johan showed up today asking the same question we took a walk to the room where I have all the parts. After some searching I found an NOS inner wire!!!! It seems to be a wire manufactured by Chrysler but "fit all models" I just need to cut it in the right length. So thanks Dan for getting me back on track! I was even looking at Ebay....!
ops:So now the only question for this if the end with the brass "stop" should be mounted to the speedometer or down on the transmission??
MoparDaddy
Damn Right I Carry!
Seems like the stop was in the speedo end on my 64
I think the stop should be on the speedo end. When you lube the cable, you pull the speedo, remove the cable, lube, and reinstall the cable from the drivers seat. tmm
Toolmanmike and MoparDaddy!
Thanks for the advice! I check the lenght on the wire and it was for an A-body!! :glasses7:
I filled the cable with oil and it fitted like s glove! Now everything is done for the speedometer! I need to build a box so I can bring the oil pan, dip stick tube and the transmission park cable on the plane down to Stockholm on Tuesday!!
:coffee2:
Thanks for the advice! I check the lenght on the wire and it was for an A-body!! :glasses7:
I filled the cable with oil and it fitted like s glove! Now everything is done for the speedometer! I need to build a box so I can bring the oil pan, dip stick tube and the transmission park cable on the plane down to Stockholm on Tuesday!!
:coffee2:
MoparDaddy
Damn Right I Carry!
Woo Hoo!
slantsixdan
=..=
Dan! Thanks for the input! You have answers on all different kind of questions! The work is in progress. I will add the grease instead. Cleaned the cable this morning so tonight it will be back in shape. I know Mopar had some special grease for speedometer wires, but I don't have that! I hope that this will add more troublefree milage!! :banghead:
Thanks Dan!
trapster
Well-Known Member
I seem to remember a dry graphite type lubricant for the speedo.
That's what I added. It says in the shop manual to use speedometer lubricant. I took the last in an old Mobil can I had!! And boy it turns smoother! Thanks guys!
:burnout:
After two month working with PPG in Sweden and US they have finally found the formula for the paint, both the gold on the interior and the yellow paint on the exterior. This will be 2K paint. No clear coat! Just as the factory did it!
Thanks PPG!
Thanks PPG!
Today I stopped by at Norrorts Bil och Vanservice in Stockholm. Lars "Texas" Hanbring has brought my transmission back into a factory condition!
I was overwelmed of his work and after a while he asked me
- When I change the oil pan, do you think we should get a more factory looking gasket???? What, I said!
- I'm pretty sure that the gasket was not so dark as the ones that I have!!
I just lauf and told him that this has gone too far. So now I need to get a NOS cork gasker for the pan!!!! Anyone out there??
:banghead:
I was overwelmed of his work and after a while he asked me
- When I change the oil pan, do you think we should get a more factory looking gasket???? What, I said!
- I'm pretty sure that the gasket was not so dark as the ones that I have!!
I just lauf and told him that this has gone too far. So now I need to get a NOS cork gasker for the pan!!!! Anyone out there??
:banghead:
slantsixdan
=..=
Nifty.
Cork transmission pan gaskets are still readily available over here, and they still weep/seep/leak fluid just like the originals.
Cork transmission pan gaskets are still readily available over here, and they still weep/seep/leak fluid just like the originals.
Dan! You are so right!! It will leak, seep and weep just like factory did it! But, Lasse will glue it on the inside of the gasket. In that way you will see the gasket from the outside without any gasket sealer. So I will go that way and hope that it will not leak.
My friend Goran had a NOS gasket for 904 transmission from the old Dodge dealer in town!!!!! So I just dropped it in the mailbox to Lasse so hopefully I will have the tranny back at the end of next week.
The wheels are in progress but I'm still wondering about how the factory Wheel nuts looked like? After going all over my inventory of used wheel bolts these are the closest so I will stick with them. They have 11/16" head. Is it possible to get steel for 20 lug nuts from US? Where would it be possible to buy that kindof steel profile?
Foryou guys that are interested in the pie pan I got the offer today. Each pie pan will cost usd 60 to get done if I buy 10 of them. If I order 20 of them the cost will be USD 32. Let me know if there any interest.
Ulf, I received a care package from Sweden today. Thank you so very much for the speedo grommet and also the Valiant export plate. I owe you one now! LOL
toolmanmike
Glad I could help!
All the details that needs to ne painted is done. Will box it up and get it to Mikael asap.
BUT, I missed that the fuel cap should be painted too...! Anyone having a fuel cap for sale?
Thanks FABO. :glasses7:
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
I imagine you could easily sell 20 of those 273 pie tins, are they only the "Charger" ones for he Dart, or the "Commando" ones too? I bet a few members on FABO will buy some tins, otherwise, sell some on eBay! I might be interested in a "Charger" pie tin too :glasses7:
If I understand for $600 you can have ten (10) "273 Charger" pie tins made, but for $40 more you can have an additional ten made. I think you should get twenty (20) made and I'm sure we can help you sell them all.
The cork gaskets work fine without any glue. Make sure the pan surface is very straight, and don't over torque the bolts. Heck, take a straight edge to the trans case and confirm its flat too. I use these all the time, without leaking, and most times its due to slight warpage of the pan because the bolts get over tightened.
As Keith and SSVDP said I ordered 20 pie pans today! I think that will be great.
FredS! The oil pan was checked on a steel board and each bolt hole was checked for exact clearence. I do hope that this will make the tranny not leaking.....! But I guess that times will tell........:coffee2:
FredS! The oil pan was checked on a steel board and each bolt hole was checked for exact clearence. I do hope that this will make the tranny not leaking.....! But I guess that times will tell........:coffee2:
Today I got hold of two gas caps!
The first one is painted by the factory. The process for this must have been that the inside center section was added with rubber gasket and brass gasket and then spotwelded in the center against the "door". After that the handle was bolted to the door with two silver zinc Phillips screws with star washer. After this the cap was pained on some kind of pin so the "door" got paint on the outside Surface but not the inside of the cap.
Tomorrow I will pick up the NOS chromed one. The process on that one must have been that the inside center section and the rubber and brass gasket was spotwelded to the "door" after the "door" was chromed. The handle must have been chromed separately too.
Tomorrow I will leave all the parts for the interior that needs to be painted.
I will go with a painted one even if I think that a chromed one should look more fancy!
The first one is painted by the factory. The process for this must have been that the inside center section was added with rubber gasket and brass gasket and then spotwelded in the center against the "door". After that the handle was bolted to the door with two silver zinc Phillips screws with star washer. After this the cap was pained on some kind of pin so the "door" got paint on the outside Surface but not the inside of the cap.
Tomorrow I will pick up the NOS chromed one. The process on that one must have been that the inside center section and the rubber and brass gasket was spotwelded to the "door" after the "door" was chromed. The handle must have been chromed separately too.
Tomorrow I will leave all the parts for the interior that needs to be painted.
I will go with a painted one even if I think that a chromed one should look more fancy!
slantsixdan
=..=
…and then there were the factory caps that had a painted round body and a chrome handle bar.
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