slantsixdan
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Are you quite certain it wasn't terne-plated? I'm pretty sure it was.
1965 Dodge Dart Charger
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
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Are you quite certain it wasn't terne-plated? I'm pretty sure it was.
Dan, you are probably right!
This is what I found on a Google search;
"Terne is used to coat sheet steel to inhibit corrosion. It is one of the cheapest alloys suitable for this, and the tin content is kept at a minimum while still adhering to a hot-dipped iron sheet, to minimize the cost."
I guess that this was more cost effective then galvanizing! I found a company in Illinois and one in England. I'll see what I can come up with! Thanks Dan for your knowledge and help!
But regarding the J-hook, that one might have been natural! I need evidence from an unrestored car.
I did a countless number of L-brackets years ago for a popular tool manufacturer. They were all "fresh production pieces" but every one of them had this black crap streaking all over them like something that was applied while they were rolling down the line. Is that perhaps the same stuff you're talking about? I always wondered what it was. Not really oily or anything, and it came right off with blasting, but it was just weird marks on top of the metal. Thanks Dan! Your knowledge about so many things is a blessing. :-D
slantsixdan
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Terne plating used to be a low-melt lead/zinc dip, back before seat belts were necessary, back before lead and cigarettes were bad for us. Now it's not necessarily tin/lead but might be tin/zinc. Article here gives the basics but can't necessarily be relied on for precise accuracy; there's no law against lead/zinc terne and it's very likely still in use. There's also Ni-terne, which is when the bare steel is nickel plated before the terne dip -- Ni-terne has long been common in fuel tank manufacture, and while I can't come close to swearing to it, it would be a fairly safe bet that OE tanks were Ni-terned.
As for what it looks like, whether Ni- or not, it doesn't have that granular/crystalline appearance like hot-dip galvanize. Terne is pretty smooth and uniform in appearance; it starts out a semi-dull silvery tone then gradually ages to a darker grey.
As for the J-bolts, I would be surprised if they were bare steel. Probably cadmium plated or chromated, originally.
(Thanks for the props, Leanna! I think that black crud you saw might have been some kinda graphite compound or other process-related gunkum; it doesn't sound like a deliberate coating which would've been more uniform and not streaky.)
As for what it looks like, whether Ni- or not, it doesn't have that granular/crystalline appearance like hot-dip galvanize. Terne is pretty smooth and uniform in appearance; it starts out a semi-dull silvery tone then gradually ages to a darker grey.
As for the J-bolts, I would be surprised if they were bare steel. Probably cadmium plated or chromated, originally.
(Thanks for the props, Leanna! I think that black crud you saw might have been some kinda graphite compound or other process-related gunkum; it doesn't sound like a deliberate coating which would've been more uniform and not streaky.)
Dan!
A friend of mine stopped bywith a J-hook and you see that it was silver zinc from start! Thanks for the input Dan!
The window regulator has some kind of grease on. Is that lithium grease?
On the front vent window frame thare are two bolts that holds the frame to the front of the door. After going through different ones I found out they were silver zinc!
On the rear drums there should be special clips. In late 1965 they changed! I found the TSC on it!
slantsixdan
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Makes perfect sense.
Probably. Starts out yellowish-white and gradually turns to yellow-brown.
Interesting, can you post the bulletin?
Yepp, here it is!!
slantsixdan
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That TSB is not applicable to your Dart. It pertains to B- and C-body cars only.
Oh, I didn't saw that!! That means that by that time they still have the square ones!
After a good one hour cleaning the first window mecanism is done.It turned out great and it way better that my NOS one!! After going through the mecanism I found out that there is no way to get close with right finish etc on the mecanism. So this is the way it will be. When it comes time for assembly lithium grease will be added. Right now there is a big difference in how easy it goes.
However the bracket that bolts to the glass is dirty and need a good cleaning. I would guess that it is silver zinc.
It's getting better...:glasses7:
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Here are the ones that were taken by the painter Michael! The green primer will be added after the sealing are done and the trunk insulation on the sides are done. That's all for now. The pictures of the paint process will continue in August!!!
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
It looks beautiful !
65_Dart_GT
Well-Known Member
I just re-did mine (the hook), it was in about the same state as yours if not a tad worse. I put it in a bath of Gelled Rust Remover from Dominion Sure Seal Ltd. Removes rust from chrome eliminates sanding an leaves a protective coating that eliminates further rust and prepares the surface for paint.
I let it soak for 24 hours (fully immersed), and wiped the gel away and then lightly wire brushed by hand and I was blown away by the results which to me was like new. I have used it as is. Actually installed it just last week.
Do you by chance have a picture how it turned out?
Next in line with the body is the find out the right seam sealer and the puddy or what the name is. Then it's time for the greenish primer like Mike Mancini did on the Gold winning 1970 Duster.
http://www.moparaction.com/Article/GROCERY_GOLD/gold.html
AI have going through Internet in search for the right weam sealer. Does anyone have any ideas what Chrysler used back in the day? What is the best brand to use?
I have gone through the Internet in search for the right seam sealer. Does anyone have any ideas what Chrysler used back in the day? What is the best brand to use?
:coffee2:
:coffee2:
65_Dart_GT
Well-Known Member
I'll get under the car tomorrow and see if I can get some decent pics for you. Might be difficult but I'll give it a go. (That would be the hook bolt)
Roger
65_Dart_GT
Well-Known Member
I used Dominion Sure Seal Ltd. Brush On Seam Sealer using a cheap brush and it seemed to match up to what was there (brush strokes). I'll check and see if I got any pics that are worthy.
Roger
Today I added the dip stick tube for the transmission and mounted the assembly line oil filter. It's getting closer.......
slantsixdan
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Say, that assembly line oil filter is nifty! Old stock or repro?
It's old stock! It seems to me that Chrysler used left over oil filters from late fifties/early 60ies. The reason is that it has a partnumber starting with 18 xx ***. Around this time Chrysler had the greenish ones bearing the name Chrysler, but identical to the Mopar sMulti Purpose line filters.
But this is just an idea. But I have some of the facts confirmed by Rich Ehrenberg. I'm not sure when the red, white and blue ones showed up?
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
LOL @ Dan.....this is "Ulf" we are talkig about, I don't think he knows the meaning of the word "repro" HEE HEE
Awesome stuff and great too see more progress!!!
slantsixdan
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The p/n you're thinking of is 1851 658. It was the specified P/N in every factory parts catalogue through '72. It also appears in '73 as "Long type", next to a new-that-year part number for "short type"; the shorter oil filter was introduced in '73 for some applications that could no longer accommodate the long filter because of engine bay configuration changes. The 1851 658 filter did have various appearances over the years. And as you note, the service replacement filters came in various versions, too.
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