1966 Barracuda Formula S Choke ?

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1974DartSwinger

1974DartSwinger

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I'm picking up my car in a couple weeks and I know the choke is not working right. To start it up you have to take off the aircleaner, hook up the choke, start it then remove the choke. The choke doesn't turn off on its own.
I want to take care of this as soon as I pick it up but I couldn't remember for the life of me if it had an electric choke or the "heat coil" style that is on my dart. Its a 4bbl carter AFB.

Anyone?

If it turns out to be one of the metal heat coil kinds, can I just get an electronic conversion kit and be all said and done? If I do go that way, to make my life easier, anyone recomend a specific wire to splice for the key-on 12V?

Thanks !! Man am I geeked about cruising my new ride all over Detroit this summer!!! I guess it'll be a homecomming since she was born at the Hamtramik plant :)
 
I don't think the original carb has the mounting points for an electric choke. You may have to put a different carb on it.
 
It's uses heat off the exhaust crossover to heat the bimetal spring type choke. They are fairly simple but all the components need to function for it to work properly. First, reattach the choke rod to the choke flap. Then open the throttle and see if the flap closes all the way with just a little pressure keeping it closed. Pull back in the choke pull-off rod and adjust it (by bending) so that it opens the flap about 3/16" or so. Start the engine and see if that adjustment will allow the engine to run smoothly. If not, adjust the pull-off rod until it does. If the choke stays on too long or won't completely open when the engine is hot, the exhaust crossover passage in the intake is probably clogged. You'll need to remove the intake and have the carbon/burnt oil buildup removed. I usually start with a small chisel to get the big stuff and carb cleaner or the sand blaster the get the deep stuff. Run a coat hanger all the way through to make sure the passageway is clear. There is an adjustment on the choke itself but unless someone has messed with it, that won't need changing. You'll have to look in the factory book to get the exact setting depending on your particular application.
Have fun! Mark
 
Has your intake manifold been off the motor lately ? If so, was the exhaust crossover passage open ? If its clogged with carbon (which happens very very often) the choke wont work because the exhaust gasses are not flowing through there to heat the bimetallic spring. The type of choke you have is called a divorced choke, some have an electric heating element in them and others do not, yours does not and relies solely on the exhaust flow through the crossover in the manifold. Try the adjustment suggested above, if it does not help then the problem is very likely the issue I described here.
 
Thanks everyone! I will try that when I get the car home. Is it true that you can not mount an electric choke on this style carb? I'd rather pony up $60 for the kit than play around taking the intake off and cleaning the crossover if thats what it is.

Hopefully its just something simple like the metal spring is broken or something isnt hooked up just right.
Cheers!
 
If its an oem carb, you might have some problems putting an electric choke on it. I would look at a late model edelbrock afb choke kit, and carb and see if there are mounting bosses which line up with your carb, if so, then yes it might work. You might also consider installing a manual choke, kits for these are pretty simple to install and cost a lot less than an electric choke kit.

Or, you could do what I do and use no choke. My cars don't get driven in cold weather so its not really an issue for me. I just feather the throttle for a few minutes until the engine smooths out and its good to go.
 
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