1966 Barracuda headers, fenderwall or not?

-
POPS6T6

POPS6T6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2006
Messages
257
Reaction score
5
Location
Rocklin, California
Ok, so I'm in the process of wrapping up all the body work on my car, it has been stripped down and we have finished 90% of the body work and it is going into primer in a few weeks. The last bit of fabrication/repair we have is that the original owner of replacement body (long story there) had cut huge holes in the fenderwalls for headers. I had originally bought a set of spitfire headers, but since I am now keeping the powersteering, I've learned that these will not work. I am putting a mildly built 318 with 727 transmission and 8 3/4 rear end. My question is, should I leave those holes and run fenderwall headers (if so does anyone have a good part # or information on which headers) or should I patch those and run the more classic under the chassis headers (also any part # or info would be appreciated)?

I just don't want to spend the time welding in the patch panels only to find out that I'm going to end up cutting holes there for headers in the future.

Also a side note, is there any way to modify the spitfires to work with power steering? If not, I have a set for sale...

The saga continues...
 
enginecompartment.jpg


Hope this works, here is a pic of what I am working with..
 
I had fender wells on my 66 They are really good for a lot of reasons. Takes about 15 minutes to take them on and off. Leaves lots of room for starter replacement. However tire rubs could be a draw back. I always used a 165-80-15 skinny tire on my car with no problems.

The thing I didn't like was seeing the exhaust pipes go under the front sub frame. They hung low and dragged on everything, also they are more likely to rattle on the frame and body of the car.

I went with the TTI in frame headers now but they are a real pain too! Just like the looks better after installation from the side of the car view.
 
Did you modify your crossmember? Or have TTI do it? Just looking at the link (thanks by the way!) and for $100 that doesn't seem to bad of a price to have them modify it..
 
I did my own. Probably will need to move/relocate the brake line block down on the frame also. The 904 trans. needs a mini starter. The 727 trans needs the expensive RobbMc starter.
 
Good to know regarding the starter. I do have a mini starter, brand new, because was going to go with the Spitfire headers. Now it looks like I'll add that to the list of things to sell when all is said and done..Is that due to the clearance of the headers or is that due to the transmission? With fenderwall headers would the mini starter work?
 
POPS6T6 said:
Good to know regarding the starter. I do have a mini starter, brand new, because was going to go with the Spitfire headers. Now it looks like I'll add that to the list of things to sell when all is said and done..Is that due to the clearance of the headers or is that due to the transmission? With fenderwall headers would the mini starter work?
Click to expand...

Mini starter will work with 904 trans and TTI headers

The original and other starters will work with fender well headers.

You only need that RobbMc clockable starter for the 727 trans or the 11" clucth bell housings if you have a manual trans. Has to do with size of transmission/starter position (flywheel teeth count)
 
zhandfull said:
Mini starter will work with 904 trans and TTI headers

The original and other starters will work with fender well headers.

You only need that RobbMc clockable starter for the 727 trans or the 11" clucth bell housings if you have a manual trans. Has to do with size of transmission/starter position (flywheel teeth count)
Click to expand...

I have a 727 transmission, automatic, floor shift. So regardless with the 727 I'll need the RobbMc starter...That's why I love this forum, so much information out there from so many guys who have already tried it all!
 
I have classic under chassis skid guards ... I mean headers. They are beat up from hitting every f-ing thing! Fenderwell sound good to me!
 
Mopar to ya said:
I have classic under chassis skid guards ... I mean headers. They are beat up from hitting every f-ing thing! Fenderwell sound good to me!
Click to expand...

They look outstanding under the hood and are easy to install. The thing I didn't like on mine was the exhaust hanging down below the frame right behind the wheels.

In this picture from another member here on the board. You can see where you have to duck down under the frame with the exhaust system.

The fender well headers would be great with side pipes.
 

Attachments

  • 100_2686.jpg
    83.6 KB · Views: 814
Just installed a set of TTI headers on my 65 Cuda 340. They look great but are definitely a challenge to install. TTI web site will tell you all the mods you need to do. Among the installation problems are removing the steering shaft, steering box, starter ( you will need the RobbMC (330.00), torsion bars, steering arms, jack up motor and cuss like hell getting them in. Also 90 degree oil filter adapter with machined down bolt, modified crossmember. They do fit around the power steering. My car is a 4 speed so I also had to do extensive mods to the z bar and clutch linkage. The dual exhaust set that they also sell fit like a glove with minimal trimming of the length of the pipes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top