1970 duster small bolt to big bolt spindle swap

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maidenman31

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Hey Guys,
I have been searching for the easiest way to swap my small bolt pattern disk spindle out to a big bolt pattern disk spindle but have had no luck.
There is plenty of info on going drum to disk but not small bolt to big bolt disk.
Thanks
Jason
 
u still need the same parts to do the swap...big bolt upper control arms and big bolt spindles...
 
There was a thread on here a few years ago were someone did a Mustang hub/rotor conversion so you can keep your 4 piston calipers and spindles.

Chuck
 
Thanks guys, i did read about the mustang rotor, but in my neck of the woods i don't think i would ever find anyone that could do that for me.
Is that all a guy would need is the big bolt control arms or is there anything else a guy would need?
 
An aftermarket brake kit would get you there as well. It's expensive.

I believe wilwoods have a dual pattern in the rotor
 
The upper control arms bushings are the same across the board. The lower control arms are all the same too except where the swaybar mounts are located. Anyway... everything between those parts is different. Thats the easiest way I can state it.
 
Thanks very much guys, i've changed a 100 motors and trans in my life but when it comes to front end stuff i get a little gun shy, i have visions of doing something wrong, and then crusing down the highway sometime and my front end goes out on me and i'm in big doodoo cause i'm going a little to fast*L*
 
Send the rotors/hubs to Moser and have them drilled to 4.5". Their site has pricing for shop services.

Dscn1087.jpg
 
Here is the backside of the rotor/hub. They leave the original studs in, cut them flush on the face, redrill for 4.5", tap new holes for the stud length of choice.

Dscn1088.jpg
 
pntastar69 said:
Here is the backside of the rotor/hub. They leave the original studs in, cut them flush on the face, redrill for 4.5", tap new holes for the stud length of choice.
Click to expand...

There has been several threads about the safety of wheel adapters.
So... if I had to choose between what I see there and the wheel adapters, I go with the adapters.
Those bolt heads overlap the original stud heads so the bolts cant be properly tight or stay tight. A allen head bolt miight suit that application better.
I still prefer off the shelf parts though. When you need another rotor, hub, or axle you'll be "out of order" until the new part is also modified.
No one asked for my opinion so I probably should keep it to myself.
I see quite a few things in different threads that I dont consider safe or pratical. Most of the time I just say to myself, " Its not my car ".
Good luck and happy moparing to all.
 
RedFish said:
There has been several threads about the safety of wheel adapters.
So... if I had to choose between what I see there and the wheel adapters, I go with the adapters.
Those bolt heads overlap the original stud heads so the bolts cant be properly tight or stay tight. A allen head bolt miight suit that application better.
I still prefer off the shelf parts though. When you need another rotor, hub, or axle you'll be "out of order" until the new part is also modified.
No one asked for my opinion so I probably should keep it to myself.
I see quite a few things in different threads that I dont consider safe or pratical. Most of the time I just say to myself, " Its not my car ".
Good luck and happy moparing to all.
Click to expand...

X2

I don't understand why you want to move away from the SBP disc setup.

Parts for the SBP setup are plentiful now and cheap, including rotors, calipers and the rest. The only item not being repopped is the rotor hat. You simply reuse the existing hat whenever you need to install new rotors.

Just a couple weeks ago, SBP rotors were listed on several websites for $18 each.

How can you beat that?

Calipers are $50 each, and these are the 4 piston Kelsey Hayes.

Rotors and calipers are being produced by Centric and a number of vendors carry these, or can order.

The part numbers can be found on the BRAKE forum on this site.

If you add up all the expense involved with moving from SBP disc to LBP disc, unless you get the LBP stuff for nothing, your out of pocket $$$ is substantial.
Make certain you include the cost of wheels in the conversion.
 
If you look at the date in my pix, 4/2006, 4 years and still running w/no issues. I did start out w/fresh rotors and with the small amount of miles driven per year, I don't feel that replacements will be required. Switching to lbp offers a huge availability of aftermarket wheels over sbp, which may be preferred by some.
 
Yes that is the only reason i am wanting to switch is so i actually have a bigger selection of rims, i have cragers and slots, but would like to go with center lines or weld wheels. I just replaced the master cylinder and am pretty happy with my brakes now so i didn't really want to have to shell out a wack of cash to go to wilwood or something like that. I also only drive the duster a little during the summer too so there isn't very many miles put on mine either.
I am a little supprised by the stud still being in there and the new stud sitting flush, but i figure they do it, and they know what their doing so it has to be allright.
I do appreciate everyones oppinion for or against this. I have also heard about the safety side too, but haven't ever actually heard from anyone who actually had problems with safety going this way.
Thanks
 
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