2 questions - "Run" only power source/fusible link install

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carpart67

carpart67

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I'd like to start by thanking everyone. I'm freshening up the butchered electrical in my car and I've got a lot of good info on these forums.

First question is where is a good "run" only source to power my electric choke? I had planned on installing a Voltmeter, Oil Pressure and Water Temp gauge as well. I was going to get the power for those from the 12 volt feed to the IVR, should that be suitable for the gauges?

Second question is about installing fusible links. I'm bypassing my ammeter using the info on the MAD electrical site. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml My question is how to attach the fusible link to the larger wire? For example attaching the 16 gauge fusible link to the two 10 gauge wires. I'm not really sure how to bridge the gap, as most butt connectors only support a size difference of 2 gauges.

Any and all help would be appreciated.
 
Ignition only power source for electric choke ? The choke should be hot in run. Dark blue at voltage regulator. Same wire where a isolated field alternator is or added. So if you upgrade the charging system you can take that dark blue to both places.
Again the dark blue at the instrument panels' main harness connector to feed gauges, hot in run.
 
Run is what I meant. I call the positions of the key "accessory" and "ignition". Not the right terminology I realise, my bad. (I'll fix that up, thanks) The blue wire that runs between the ballast resistor and the regulator is the one you speak of correct? I see now looking at the diagram that that should be the one.

RedFish said:
Ignition only power source for electric choke ? The choke should be hot in run. Dark blue at voltage regulator. Same wire where a isolated field alternator is or added. So if you upgrade the charging system you can take that dark blue to both places.
Again the dark blue at the instrument panels' main harness connector to feed gauges, hot in run.
Click to expand...
 
You should be able to solder those links

The blue is "ign run" and feeds the coil ballast and the ign terminal of the regulator. THAT IS what you want for a choke.

HOWEVER, you should check it after you are done, for "voltage drop," because if it is suffering from drop, it will cause overcharging (too high voltage) from your alternator

To check for voltage drop to your regulator, Fire up and get the engine running (fast idle cam) to simulate "low to medium cruise."

Stick a voltmeter probe directly onto the ign terminal of your regulator, the other probe directly onto the battery positive post. You are looking for a very low reading, zero volts would be perfect. Anything over .2 (two tenths of a volt) is too much.

If so, you'll have to check the wire path from the ballast/ regulator -- through the bulkhead -- to the ign switch connector -- the switch contacts -- back out the switch connector -- through wireing -- back out the firewall connector on the battery feed -- to the starter relay stud.

Do the same thing for the ground path. Stab one probe directly onto the regulator mounting flange, the other probe directly onto the battery neg. post. Once again, over .2V is too much. If over this, improve the ground from the regulator to the battery.
 
That's very helpful information, thank you. This is actually where my choke was connected, but I wasn't sure if it was proper or not. I'll run a new wire from the ign terminal on the regulator to the choke.
 
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