67valiant225
Member
I need a header for my 225 slant 6 so I can do a turbo set up.
225 turbo headers
- Thread starter 67valiant225
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67valiant225
Member
does anyone know where I can get one? or who makes them?
No one makes them off the shelf, but you could take the stock manifold and run a pipe off it to the turbo and call it a day.
We looked for a long time before giving up and building our own.
All the flanges, collectors, turbo mounts and other necessary hardware are available if you're a good welder and have the time and patience to fabricate your own stuff,
If not, there is a member on FABO whose screen name is PISHTA who showed us how to fabricate a turbo manifold from a stock, cast-iron exhaust manifold and a 2.5" -diameter, short-radius U-Bend by welding a flange on one end that would boilt to the outlet of the stock manifold, and placing a turbo mounting flange on the other end of the U-Bend and... presto; a workable turbo "manifold" that was cheap and effective.
Don't give up; a slant six and a turbo is a combination made in Heaven, and will pay BIG dividends in the performance department, if done right.
It's not easy, and not particularly cheap, but you can get horsepower and performance by turbocharging that is never going to happen, normally aspirated.
There are lots of people on this board who can, and will help you when you need advice and assistance, if you decide to do a turbo setup.
What kind of system do you have in mind? What kind of performance are you looking for; 200 horpower, 300 horepower,? There are options that will allow you to make 500 horsepower if that is your desire, but as with all deals of this type, horsepower costs money; how fast do you want to go???
A 300 horsepower turbo'd slant six in a 3300-pound Duster or Dart, could reaonably be expected to run 12.90's at aboput 102 mph.
Faster is more expensive; slower is cheaper...
You pays your money and you takes your choice, but if you want to go 12's in a 3,300-pound A Body, you can do it with a normally aspirated slant six, but expect to spend a lot of money and you'll end up with a car that is marginaly street driveable IF it's street driveable at all.
Doing that kind of performance with a turbo slant six will result in a lot better street driveability and may be cheaper... I said MAY.
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions; the only dumb one is the one you don't ask!
kittypancake
Well-Known Member
HEY BILL! Do you have somebody post these questions just so you can answer them?
I'm kidding, of course. It was one (or more) of your posts that got me interested in turbos in the first place. I'm sure I'll be looking for answers for my own questions soon enough.
I'm kidding, of course. It was one (or more) of your posts that got me interested in turbos in the first place. I'm sure I'll be looking for answers for my own questions soon enough.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
The easiest way (not the best) to do a turbo install on a slant six, is to use a "J" pipe off the stock exhaust manifold. You will need to support the turbo. Do not use the pipe as the only support.
TomMoparMan
Well-Known Member
Check out stanlessheaders.com they can build anything you can fab. They built a set for my big block duster, look awesome. Good luck with your project.Tom
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If somebody produced a nice one for $400 they would sell fast. Problem is allowing for variables like power steering, what turbos bolt up, if people plan to plump to an intercooler, ... Still, the slant's bay has lots of room and I recently saw a post where someone made a nice-looking short turbo header that would fit almost any plan.
Hey, Kitty; if I knew more about the subject, I might do something like that, but, unfortunately, all I know is what I have read on FABO and the Slant Six Forum, posted by people who actually know what they're talking about.
If I could weld, I'd make some of those neato stock exhaust manifold/turbo adapters like PISHTA dreamed up and sell them, but I can't (weld.)
They are handier than a pocket on a shirt...:cheers:
As for your own o project; jump in... the water's FINE!!!! (Misery loves company!!!):banghead:
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
does anyone have a link to PISHTA's post on his j bend turbo mount setup? I've searched and can't seem to find it. or it's not in the header title to find and I'm just not looking hard enough. I have a second hydraulic motor that I'm going to put in a front clip to mock things up (power steering. A/C ect.) while I finish up my normal engine so I can drive the car while I'm getting ready to turbo the convertible, not looking for a killer hp rating but would like a little more oomph! and a nice cruiser car/long distance driver. since I plan on driving it to the far away shows (Woodward dream cruise and the other one in Pennsylvania) so that should be somewhere in the 175-250 hp hopefully.
Palmetto
Well-Known Member
Bill,
You could probably make some money making those things and selling them to guys that want to pop a turbo on their cars.
You could probably make some money making those things and selling them to guys that want to pop a turbo on their cars.
kittypancake
Well-Known Member
I'm trying. I bought a GN turbo off a FABO member. It arrived yesterday, but I haven't even had a chance to unwrap it yet! That's okay though...no rush... I'm sticking to my "let's see what happens" philosophy...
I am sure you're right if I had any welding skills, and a welder, but I don't.
Thanks for your suggestion. I keep hoping someone will pick up the ball and run with it, with regard to this turbo/header deal, but so far, nobody has done so...
I'll keep pluggin'... :banghead:
Hey, 66...
I sent PISHTA a private message asking him to email me the side-view of that header he built and he responded by saying he'd be glad to email me the picture.
As soon as it arrives, I'll post it in this thread and we can all see what wouild be involved in building one like it.
Stay tuned, and Thanks, PISHTA!!! You da man!!!:cheers:
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
Boy talk about brain freeze. I searched and searched and didn't think once about Pm'ing Pishta.. duh!:banghead:
thanks
FABO member PISHTA was good enough to take his time and not only send me photos of this turbo manifold/adapter, but also to include a scan of the dimensions and physical specs of the required hardware AND a detailed description of the whole shebang, so anyone who wants a turbo on their slant six can have one without breaking the bank or running afoul of the stock exhaust manifold's tendency to want to crack, if welded on. This whole turbo-adapter apparatus is a bolt-on deal; no welding on the cast manifold is required at all.
I think that's a wonderful plan, because cracks in the manifold are not usually easy to fix, and this setup isn't going to contribute to that scenario!
He sent me several explanatory pictures and some text that will also be very helpful, I think, to anyone building a boosted slant six for the first time.
I am a computer IDIOT and don't have the skills or knowledge to put all of this (pictures, text, and drawings) in one posting on this website, so it will show up here as several different pages, but it will all be there, so bear with me, please.
Here is a pic of the finished product: Go to the next post for more pix...
Here is one shot of the U-Bend with the required flanges welded on.
I told you I am a computer idiot, and I wasn't kidding. I don't have a clue as to how to make this picture bigger, so maybe your software can make it into a more useful size; I just don't know how.
Here's another one...
And, another:
And, some VERY helpful text about the whole add-on turbo operation as regards a slant six ...
PISHTA sez:
"Here are a few pics and a scan of the dimensions. The turbo mounting holes are "drill to suit" for the turbo used. The Toyota CT-26 flange is not a T3 ot a T4 flange but a proprietary pattern so my holes are for this CT-26. The 19 degree of the 2 bolt exhaust flange determines the kick out distance from the block and is correct for a pre 67 narrow A so as to clear the manual steering box. Power steering may require a smaller degree as the nose of the box might be longer the a manual box. The 9 degree angle is to get the flange and tube straight up. The turbo flange is mounted perpendicular with the tube, this allows the turbo to sit level and this should be cut on the long leg of the J to allow height adjustment. You want the turbo to be lower that the water level in the radiator to keep the cartridge "wet" after shutdown to prevent coking of the oil. Oil return line goes down at a 45 to the pan via a 3/4 inch tube above the oil line, no less diameter and no more than a 45 angle or you'll risk oil back up and blow by in the turbo. The oil pressure line is run from a T behind the sender down off the oil pump. I routed it up and along the base of the valve cover, round the front and into the cartridge One site claimed that a .010 jet/restriction in the oil line will prevent oil saturation and blow by as it needs little oil volume. The water lines (optional) were plumbed from the temp sender for the supply and the return was routed to the upper radiator hose (can tap into thermostat cover), these are just handy taps. I suppose you could tie into heater lines also. Exhaust is a flex hose off the flange down to the stock location of the head pipe, enlarged to 2.5 inches to a 2.5 exhaust system. The muffler does not need to be huge as the turbo itself muffles the exhaust note to almost nothing, even a straight pipe to a "S" resonator would not be loud. The boost referenced fuel pump pressure line is T'd of the line that goes to the integral wastgate, and is plumbed into the weep hole on the backside of the pump diaphragm. Some holes are round and easy to epoxy a stub into, others like mine were square so I had to do a little shaping. The boost acts as a spring off the back of the diaphragm and supplies a 1:1 increase in fuel pressure per lb of boost, up to about 9psi. The carb is a Holley 2300 350 CFM 2bbl, common 4150 style fuel bowl, float and air cleaner flange size. remove all linkage through air cleaner flange and epoxy closed to make airtight. I drilled out the Power valve restrictions (small holes behind the PV) to .070 to richen the power circuit under boost, dont want to go lean! Distributor was not touched, well see how that works but the boost is suppose to work/help with the advance of the distributor. Carb hat is needed and I put the adjustable blow off valve on the back of the carb hat so the evacuation of the pressure would not be forced back into the plumbing toward the turbo, a logical design that I rarely see used. you can get inexpensive Bosch "pop off" valves from SAAB, or even Porsche in different ratings but the Ebay adjustables are cheap. Just make sure they dont leak around the adjuster screw. All seem to a little as they are designed for EFI that can compensate for small leaks. I put an O-ring in there and will most likely RTV seal after I get it dialed in. You can run a "bleeder" tube T'd off the wastegate feed line into the cab to a ball valve to adjust the boost level more than the stock 9 psi wastegate. Open the bleeder and it will require more boost to open the "leaking" wastegate."
slant6racer
Well-Known Member
As Bill has said, building these turbo headers is not easy!!!
The "J" bend may be the best way to go for most street applications.
Just thinking out load.
Will
The "J" bend may be the best way to go for most street applications.
Just thinking out load.
Will
I think that PISHTA header would work well for anything but an all-out racecar application. And, it looks SO EASY compared with a conventional header, Here'a a picturte of ours, which ended up coating us a cool thosand dollars by the time it was ceramic coated.
:wack:
pishta
I know I'm right....
Thanks Bill, hopefully this thread will be easier to find than my others. anyone can PM me for any other questions, comments or pics.
kittypancake
Well-Known Member
.
I'm gonna try a Pishta "inspired" set up. I will let everyone know when I have failed miserably
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I'm also going to try it , luckily I have a front clip that I can use as a mockup station to get things dialed in fit wise. I'm going to add it to the otherwise crowded bay. (power steering and smaller A/C compressor). should be fun trying to get things fitted and I'll probably have to make some custom mounting brackets for all the accessories just to get everything in there.
I want to get the car on the road first to open up some room in the garage before I try things out but I will be trying it out with Pishta's design. looks easy to do and no expensive exhaust to build. my welding skills are not up to building my own set of custom exhaust just yet. THANKS PISHTA for a great/cool idea!
I want to get the car on the road first to open up some room in the garage before I try things out but I will be trying it out with Pishta's design. looks easy to do and no expensive exhaust to build. my welding skills are not up to building my own set of custom exhaust just yet. THANKS PISHTA for a great/cool idea!
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