273 Commando

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1965 Barracuda

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Ok you Mopar gurus I have a question about my 273 Commando. It's in an all original, numbers matching 1965 Barracuda. So in 1965 it made between 240-250 hp with the carter AFB 4 barrel, 10.5:1 compression, dual point Mallory dist., and single exhaust. I want to keep everything as original as possible in my rebuild BUT, does it make more sense to go with a hydraulic cam/lifters since it is a weekly driver or maintain the solid set-up? Any thoughts, recommendations?
 
You might like hydraulic lifters simply because they run a little quieter than solid.
 
I don't think there's any need to go Hydraulic. I adjusted mine 2 years ago. Of course I don't drive over 2-3000 miles a year but they are really minimal maintence. I used a Isky E-4 cam (solid lifter) and it really works well. It's a nice cam to replace the factory Commando cam. Check out my 273 build thread . The link is below.

Welcome to FABO!
 
Different question just for my info, came with a Mallory duel point not a presto light?
 
I drive mine weekly, sometimes more than that. It also sees a few track days per season.

I adjust the valves once a year. They are never very far out and if they are it's a few thousandths on the loose side. No big whoop. I run them .004 tighter than the factory spec anyhow.

I've yet to have eve met someone who hates solid lifters that has actually run them and knows how to adjust lash properly.
 
I would keep the solids, check adjustment once a year since its not driven that much.
Try the silicone/metal sandwich valve cover gaskets they can be used over and over.
Also try the spreader washers on the valve cover bolts this will help stop the sloppy
leaks. I think good getting in there often, it keeps you in touch with having and old car.
 
It seems to be a touchy subject for some reason. Not like you spinning the engine past 6500 rpm. There's no advantage here.
If you want hydraulic so you can set and forget then that's up to you. Plus there's more choices.
 
proper lash and you cant even hear them. Listen to a good six running: Singer sewing machine...
 
I built mine to Commando specs but I used a Lunati hydraulic matched cam-lifters-springs-retainers. I built it to turn 5500 and it does 6000 easily.
It does take different length pushrods which will potentially open another can of worms for you. I just used T/A hydraulic pushrods from Summit and they work fine.
 
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If you switch to hydraulics you will most likely need to replace the pushrods as the lifter heights will be diferent. Solids get a bad rap due to the ocasonal recommended maintenance. The factory setup actually requires very little maintenance. Back in the 60s there were many folks who never had their valve train adjusted and the cars ran well and quiet. When I was in college a girl inherited a 64 Dart and asked me to tune it up. When I pulled the valve covers the gaskets were still stuck in place and had factory red paint on them. 96,000 miles and I'm pretty sure they were never adjusted and were still almost spot on when I checked them. Her grandfather had records of all service work done down to coolant adds and tire pressure changes but there was no mention of valve adjustement in those records. I purchased my 64 Barracuda in 1970 from a lady and when I asked her about the last valve adjustment she had no clue that a valve adjustment was recommended. 72,000 miles. I know of many other examples that ran many, many miles with no adjustments. The factory setup is pretty easy on valve train compared to the solid lifter setups most folks use for perormance engines these days. To me, part of the "cool factor" of the 273 are the solid lifters.
 
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if you have to relash valves a lot, you have problems in valve train. solid lifters are trouble free. we run them in 340, set them once, checked them while back. still at same lash!!! if you had a .030 lash, you will hear them, like old duntov cam is Chevrolet.. the isky E 4 will work good in stock 273.
 
I find it funny when someone wants to go hydraulic with a mild 273 most talk you out of it.

But I rarely see someone suggest going solid when people are looking for a performance cam for 318/340/360 especially since there's no shortage of 273 rockers.
 
Ive had zero issues with my solid lifters. I adjust once MAYBE twice a year cuz I like puttering.
When the 273 comes out the adjustable rocker set up from it will go on the next build.
273 said:
I find it funny when someone wants to go hydraulic with a mild 273 most talk you out of it.

But I rarely see someone suggest going solid when people are looking for a performance cam for 318/340/360 especially since there's no shortage of 273 rockers.
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I had a 312 solid lifter motor in my 57 Fairlane 500. That was one smooth cat. Quiet as a motor could be too. There are many solid cam 340's out there as they are a free breathing high revving motor. The 318 and the 360 were not meant to be high revving so you don't see many of those running solid cams. Also lobe design and hydraulic lifter design have advanced to the power point of solids without the hassle of a bi annual valve lash. Run what you like but most solids still have a power band that is wider than a comparable hydraulic.
 
273 said:
I find it funny when someone wants to go hydraulic with a mild 273 most talk you out of it.

But I rarely see someone suggest going solid when people are looking for a performance cam for 318/340/360 especially since there's no shortage of 273 rockers.
Click to expand...

Ya, not sure why that is.......my personal recommendation for 318/340/360 would be hydraulic if the build would call for a cam that is mild enough to utilize the stock pushrods and rockers. Beyond that I prefer, and would recommend solids. My personal stable: 273 - solid, 340 - solid, 360- solid, curent 430 build in progress - solid roller, 216 Chev - solid. (And I don't spend much time adjusting valvetrains :) )
 
Thanks for all the comments! After reading them, visiting with a few more people, and doing a little more research I have made a decision. As mentioned before the car is original, matching numbers. In wanting to keep the car as close to original as possible, including the drive train, I have decided to retain the solid set-up. Many have suggested the Isky E 4 cam will work well. Thanks for your suggestions, I think that's the cam I will go with. Will keep ya'll posted.
 
1965 Barracuda said:
Thanks for all the comments! After reading them, visiting with a few more people, and doing a little more research I have made a decision. As mentioned before the car is original, matching numbers. In wanting to keep the car as close to original as possible, including the drive train, I have decided to retain the solid set-up. Many have suggested the Isky E 4 cam will work well. Thanks for your suggestions, I think that's the cam I will go with. Will keep ya'll posted.
Click to expand...
Good choice!
 
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