284 484 cam and power brakes
- Thread starter 73dodge
- Start date
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I do believe it has been done. I have not used either cam though.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
I ran the Mopar purple cam 284/484 in my 74 Satellite with a 340, very streetable but my power brakes sucked! Tried the vacumn can, didn't work. I finaly took the power brakes out and went with manual discs, good now! I like the manual brake feel better anyway. I was also running 3.91 gears, 3,500 stall converter, 750 Holley VS, Edelbrock air gap, and Hooker headers on the street. I switched the cam out and went bigger, Mopar's purple 508 lift, still very streetable!
dusterdon
Well-Known Member
If you need the power brakes, I'd go to a smaller cam. Look at Comp Cam's offerings. If it was me..... I'd just remove the power brake booster. I took the booster out of my duster and like the brakes just as well.
Babyblue66
Cool dude
DusterBoy15
THE WISE(guy) MEMBER
what do you need to go MANUAL BRAKES from POWER?
Babyblue66
Cool dude
The push rod, and the plate behind the master from a manual brake car. Thats what was needed on my 70 Coronet, and 66340sedan's Satellite.
redfastback
Don't ask me... my garage is empty
only b bodies have the plate behind the master.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Come to think of it, don't you owe me for those linkage parts?
Here's a few cold ones! :drinkers::drinkers::drinkers:
MOPARJ
What can I upgrade now?
I have a Comp XE268 in my 318 in my Duster with power brakes. The cam is
.477/.480 at .050, so it is quite lumpy. The brakes still work decent, but are somewhat spongy due to the subtracted vaccum.
I am interested in switching to manual brakes. Can I take a few pieces off another abody to complete the swap? What needs to be done and will it feel better than it does now??
.477/.480 at .050, so it is quite lumpy. The brakes still work decent, but are somewhat spongy due to the subtracted vaccum.
I am interested in switching to manual brakes. Can I take a few pieces off another abody to complete the swap? What needs to be done and will it feel better than it does now??
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Just need a brake rod (brake pedal to master cylinder) from an a-body manual brake car. Mine used to be spogy, I switched it and I like how mine work!
Dusterb318
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Get the 4-bolt to 2-bolt swap plate from someplace like Mancini or Magnum HP, get a M/C from Napa or Autozone for an early 80's 3/4 Dodge Ram truck. I didn't even need the adjustable pushrod cause I had manual brakes to begin with but if you have power brakes you need an adjustable rod and you can get that from Mancini or Magnum HP when you get that adaptor plate.
MOPARJ
What can I upgrade now?
I have a 70 Dart Swinger with no motor or trans that is a manual brake car. Can I take a few pieces off of it to turn my 73 Duster to manual brakes?
Dusterb318
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The thing is if you are going to swap to manual brakes why not upgrade to the aluminum M/C that has a bigger bore and better pedal feel and more pressure......that old 4-bolt M/C is junk IMO unless you are going for the un-molested factory look or numbers matching. With the upgraded M/C the manula brakes are better than the power brakes could ever be. Hell I think the manual brakes on my car with the aluminum M/C are better than the hydro boosted brakes on my 3/4 truck and I have them upgraded for towing and such.
socal_65dartgt
Well-Known Member
Wouldn't going to a smaller bore provide better brake modulation and feel?
I thought power brake master cylinders generally had bores larger than 1" while manual master cylinders had bores less than 1". Smaller bore = more pedal travel for a given hydraulic pressure increase. My thinking is that it will be easier to modulate at maximum braking.
I'm in the process of upgrading master cylinder (single pot) on my '65 and I'm going to a late model 2-bolt from a dakota with 15/16" bore and a 2-4 bolt master adaptor.
My only challenge is to figure out how to retain the push rod in the back of the new set up.
I thought power brake master cylinders generally had bores larger than 1" while manual master cylinders had bores less than 1". Smaller bore = more pedal travel for a given hydraulic pressure increase. My thinking is that it will be easier to modulate at maximum braking.
I'm in the process of upgrading master cylinder (single pot) on my '65 and I'm going to a late model 2-bolt from a dakota with 15/16" bore and a 2-4 bolt master adaptor.
My only challenge is to figure out how to retain the push rod in the back of the new set up.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
It should work, all you need is the brake rod. People ask, "why don't you go with the newer style aluminum one?" Well, it is WAY cheaper to just switch the rod. I have a old steel m/c one in my 74 Satellite and the newer style m/c in my 66 Valiant, both cars have manual disc brakes and they both feel the same while braking in the brake pedal. I do like the newer style better, it has the screw on caps witch don't seem to leak!
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