318 build

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jam4ever

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looking you suggesting on a 318 build. I have the a 1966 318 poly with good crank and rods and a 1983 318 police Interceptor. i was wondering if the crank and rods would interchange to have a stronger bottom end.

let me know what you think
 
Yes, I believe you can put the 66 crank in the 83. I think a fair number of the poly 318s had forged cranks. 318-3 truck engines had forged cranks as well.
 
Just eye ball the cranks flange. It should be a drop in.
 
What would be a good cam, intake and carb? Would any extra work be need for the heads. I will most likely put it into a '72 Dart.

Thanks-
 
Tell me about the cars;

Model, weight, tranny, stall, gear ratio and tire size as well as the engines comp ratio, valve size and what your after. What is the car for. Cruiseing, a little pump up for the street, street strip or race.
 
I'm just starting the project 1972 dodge dart swinger. I have a 4 speed but will start with a 727. I really want to save the 4 speed for my '70 swinger. I have a 8 3/4 323 sure grip. I would like to be an aggessive street ride.
 
I'm sorry, almost a dumb question I have to ask.
This 318 your building is a LA engine and NOT the poly. Right?
Or is it the Poly your building?
 
Comp cams XE262, 218-224 @ .050 w/.462/.470 lift is about as high as I would go with an auto and 3.23's.
In the members resto section, I also am doing a 318, a '79 with stock heads and headers, 2-1/2 exhaust pipe, 3.21 sure grip equiped rear.
I choose the Crane split duration cam 272/284 (@.050 it's 218 -228 i think ) w/ .484/.480 lift. it's centerline is 2*s wider @ 112 vs. the comps 110. This should help keep the compression a little bit better.

Get the heads milled to achieve a 9.0-1 or slighty better ratio.
Better if you can bowl blend/pocket port the head.
 
Jam4, sorry, I had to run to work last night. Time crept up on me last night.

The Crane I have is 216 int. dur. @ .050, not 218. Er.. click here;
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508&page=1&pp=20

If your willing to change out the converter for more stall, you could step up well with a cam. Then it's just a milling of the heads for some compresion (On a stock engine) and if you can, head prep.

3.23's will limit the cam size a bit. Theres no big torque release or little I should say that will let a larger (2 steps up) cam work well.
You'll have a screaming top end, but nothing down low.
 
i got a question for rumblefish360. what cam would u suggest for a strip/street 318 with 340 heads and a 8 3/4 with 3.91 and a 2500 stall tq?
 
I gotta question for phf;

First off, welcome aboard! :thumbup:

What carb, intake do you have. But, most importantly, whats your compresion ratio, and are the 340 heads 2.02 equiped and are the ports stock? Auto or 4spd?

Otherwise, based on the info given, it could be a disater. I'll assume the converter does well at the rating. Though that changes quickly.

Cam size could range from the one listed above to a (@.050) 230*

Hyd. solid or roller?
 
carb-650 cfm edelbrock, intake-performer rpm edelbrock, the c/r is about 9.8:1 and yes the heads are 2.02 intake valves and are stock. the tranny is a 904 with heavy duty clutches, a shift kit and a deep pan on top of the mopar 2500 stall t/q. im looking at a flat tappet hydro cam.
 
The crank will bolt right in, I have a '65 poly crank in my 340. I would not use the poly rods they are smaller than the LA rods. You will need to have your motor balanced because the weight of the LA pistons and rods are not the same as the poly.

Chuck
 
phf, XE274H

jam; The stock LA rods will do fine. If theres a need for any work to be done to them after a resizing, straightening and balanceing, I would think about new rods from Eagle as a decent cost effective choice.
 
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