318 fuel mileage

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Outkast

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Hey all, Havent been on here in a while but I was hoping to get some fuel mileage reports from folks running a 318 with any type of carb in a 2door A body, I am considering dropping my stock 1971 318 into my two door Dart and would like to know what to expect out of it in good running condition.
 
I get 18 on the freeway with an Edelbrock 1406 600cfm.
Plugs burn light grey, and I run an HEI ignition which helps.

Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock dual plane performer, 318/904
 
Dave Dume,
K & N air filter, Diamond Fire plugs, dual exhaust, static timing at 5' ATDC, rebuilt 2 bbl, 14" tires about 11 to 12 miles still. Fun to drive, a little gas Hog.

cheers
 
Currently running edlebrock 4 bbl intake with a Holley Street Avenger 570 CFM and worn stock heads, and cam in a 73 swinger. pending city or hwy 12.5mpg to 16mpg.
 
Dave Dume,
K & N air filter, Diamond Fire plugs, dual exhaust, static timing at 5' ATDC, rebuilt 2 bbl, 14" tires about 11 to 12 miles still. Fun to drive, a little gas Hog.

cheers

You need to get out of this nonsense of timing the car ATC

Any decent running 318 with a stock cam should be able to get 17--?? on the highway. Back in the early 70's I swapped a 340 into my 70 RR body. Big heavy Dana rear, that car weighed over 3800. It got 17 1/2 on the highway.
 
I was deffinatly going to go with HEI upgrade I hear it makes a huge difference, and of course a huge tune up all the way around. I want to say when I was running the old 318 and didnt know at all how to tune a carb or timing it was getting around 16mpg and thats in a fairly light weight 71 2door swinger. I'm still kinda partial to the little 225 and it runs ok I was just considering putting the 318 on a stand and rebuilding it for the experience and when I can afford the gas maybe drop it in and then do the same to the 225.Thanks for all the info people, keep it coming if you would like to add more.
 
No specific ignition should make a "huge difference" in mileage unless there was something mechanically/ electrically wrong with the original. This is especially true of low compression engines, IE less than 10:1
 
No specific ignition should make a "huge difference" in mileage unless there was something mechanically/ electrically wrong with the original. This is especially true of low compression engines, IE less than 10:1

That's right.
2 mpg or so at best.
 
My 72 swinger got 16 in town and 20 highway. Dead stock 318 AT/PS/PB/AC car. That was with point ignition.

I briefly had an 87 Diplomat ex-cop car. POS never got better than 10. Didn't keep it long enough to figure out exactly what was wrong.
 
I think it would have a lot to having a very well tuned carb and a light car, also having a light foot is a good way to start. Overdrive would make a good difference too obviously. Lol
 
Got about 19mpg on otherwise stock 72 318/904 duster (exept exhaust headers). after rear gear swap from 2.7 to 3.2 mpg dropped to 17 to 18 on highways. now I am doing hei conversion and getting 4barrel carb (summit 600cfm+ edel perf intake). I don't know how mpg will change yet, have to wait summer.
 
i get around 18 out of an 86 5th avenue bone stock 318 even the lean burn setup is still on it
 
That's right.
2 mpg or so at best.
Thanks for that info, so new points and cond are "ok" other than the replacement factor, the 318 I am talking about used to burn them up quikly. But that may be a timing problem or valve thing possibly? Or bad coil? And also I wasnt near as good at mechanicing back then, I probably had them way wrong as far as adjusting. The motor itself only has 76k on it and is a completely stock set up with auto trans and 2bbl.
 
so new points and cond are "ok................ the 318 I am talking about used to burn them up quikly. ............... Or bad coil?................. I probably had them way wrong as far as adjusting. ................


I took the context to mean that if you had a properly working ignition, whether points, Mopar breakerless, or maybe Pertronix, that if you spent a lot more on an MSD, that it isn't worth the money.

The advantage in breakerless over points is that obviously the points don't wear, so generally more reliability.

The primary reasons points burn is

1--certainly bad, or more likely wrong coil

2--wrong coil resistor, or bypassed, or bad condenser. Condensers (capacitors) are not just "good or bad," and neither are coils. Condensers can have reduced capacity, which causes points wear, can be leaky which causes poor spark, etc.

3--Set incorrectly. If points are set too close, or you don't lube the rubbing block and THEN they wear towards closed, this also causes burning

The single points Mopar distributors seemed to also have more problems relating to the advance plate/ breaker plate. The vacuum advance changes points dwell, and that indirectly affects timing. With a little wear in the parts of the distributor, the usual result was an over--advanced condition

The last problem is not something that commonly shows up in typical old-school GM V8 design distributors, although GM inline 6 dist's were nothing to brag about, LOL
 
In my SV1 that I had 20 years ago, I had a 318 in it, 650 spreadbore Holley, Holley Street Dominator manifold, good set of pipes, 904 trans - stock, and it would get 26mpg. If you want economy there are 2 thing that really help - 1. Spreadbore carb & 2. Your right foot
 
Damn,had 2 mild 360's that hit high teens,low twenties.Good exhaust/ dual plane.Head work helps.Keep the overlap lower(under 60).Seen multiple a bodies ,run in the 13's this way as well.
 
That's right.
2 mpg or so at best.

That's huge when getting only 7mpg in town! Rofl
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If your going to put the 318 in there, I would just leave it. Your going to get about the same if not better economy from it and more fun.
 
factory 87 police gran fury highway patrol drivetrain in a 66 more-door dart. 318, 4 barrel holley 4175, MSD 6A ignition, lockup converter 1800 stall, 2.94 rear end with 13's. best i ever averaged was 18.4 from missoula MT to spokane WA, within 7 hours round trip. most of it was at 65 mph and a steady 17 in/lbs of manifold vaccuum. my ol stewart warner motor-minder gauge really helps on long trips.
 
Thanks again all for the info, from what I have gathered here is that if I do a good overhaul on the old electical systems and tune everything to spec and maybe some nice exhaust and a manifold it really shouldnt do to bad unless my foot gets heavy. I just realy miss the on demand power of my V8 compared to the slant.
Now an age old question, if you are keeping your foot light can a four barrel get better mpg than a two barrel? as the primaries are smaller than that of a two barrel and it only really sucks fuel when you open up all four? Or is it just a myth?
 
Dave Dume,
K & N air filter, Diamond Fire plugs, dual exhaust, static timing at 5' ATDC, rebuilt 2 bbl, 14" tires about 11 to 12 miles still. Fun to drive, a little gas Hog.

cheers

You could put a much better tune up on this car, especially if you aren't subject to emissions checks.

I don't run stock 318's at anything less than 10-12 BTDC for timing. Get a decent curve on the distributor and set total without vac adv at around 34-36 and it will run MUCH better down low/off idle.
 
You need to get out of this nonsense of timing the car ATC

Any decent running 318 with a stock cam should be able to get 17--?? on the highway. Back in the early 70's I swapped a 340 into my 70 RR body. Big heavy Dana rear, that car weighed over 3800. It got 17 1/2 on the highway.

+1 Rejetting a stock lean running carb should allow you to run 5BTC and it will run tons better and mileage won't suffer much either. Those little carter 2bbls are good carbs with the right jets and rods in them.
 
Those little carter 2bbls are good carbs with the right jets and rods in them.[/QUOTE]
Cool thanks, when I first got it it ran like a sewing machine but when I parked it it was deiseling on me and I had no idea how to work on an engine, but I think it's worth tearing into now.
 
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