318 intake manifold problems

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yogis91ram

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I have a 1991 d150 ram. I bought a 318 LA crate motor. When we started swapping parts over to put the motor in a lot of stuff didn't fit. Did a little bit of research and supposedly the motor that was taken out was a magnum. My question is if it was a magnum motor that was taken out will the Magnum intake manifold work on the LA? The truck will idle fine and you can rev it up, when you put it in gear and start to go it bogs down. Thanks for all the info
 
the mounting bolt pattern/angles are different from magnum to la, so unless your inlet is one of the dual bolt pattern types then they won't interchange. if your inlet fits then both motors must be la type.
 
Post a picture of the engine from the front, so we can see what you are working on.
A 91 D150 should have had a throttle body injected LA engine if it was a 318. If I recall correctly. So, is that what is on it now?
 
Stick it on with "Panel bond"...just kidding...(its what Uncle Tony would tell ya to do..):lol:
 
Post a picture of the engine from the front, so we can see what you are working on.
A 91 D150 should have had a throttle body injected LA engine if it was a 318. If I recall correctly. So, is that what is on it now?

IMG_20240313_110749.jpg
 
That's what I told the mechanic, the bolt pattern would be different. Didn't a magnum intake sit up high also
 
That's what I told the mechanic, the bolt pattern would be different. Didn't a magnum intake sit up high also
Magnum engines;

The stock “Beer Keg” intake is a bit high. If your running a carb, a cheap intake that will work well for low to mid rpm is the chink rip off rpm. The Edelbrock is much better but expensive.

Get what you pay for.
 
Magnum engines;

The stock “Beer Keg” intake is a bit high. If your running a carb, a cheap intake that will work well for low to mid rpm is the chink rip off rpm. The Edelbrock is much better but expensive.

Get what you pay for.
It's the throttle body, the reason am asking about the intake is when in gear and given gas it bogs down. It didn't with old motor
 
as above a chinky rpm copy with a holley/edelbrock carb would be where i'd be going. make sure to regulate the fuel pressure to carb freindly psi though.
FWIW, I used an Edelbrock fuel pump on my ‘79 Magnum and an Edelbrock fuel pressure regulator on the fuel injected ‘91 W-150 to dumb down the pressure.
 
Okay, let's start at the beginning.
You had a 318 LA roller motor. Magnum 5.2s (318) were not introduced until 1992 ('93 for the 5.9). It has throttle body injection and a SBEC engine controller. Magnums had multi-point injection and an OBDI compliant computer.
I have no idea what year/spec 318 you put in, but chances are it doesn't have a fuel injection/computer friendly cam in it. Not a deal breaker, but the computer can be pretty finicky when it comes to camshaft centerlines; so if this was a reman intended for a carbureted vehicle it could be contributing to your issues. In addition, the distributor in the Mopar TBI not only controls the timing, but also acts as a crank sensor. There is no leeway when installing the slotted intermediate shaft/gear, it MUST be installed so the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal when the timing marks are lined up to "0". No fudging- moving the plug wires around to get it to line up, that will mess up the crank sensor function.
To set your timing, it's recommended that you use a magnetic timing probe and connect your analyzer into your DRB diagnostic connector- but since almost NOBODY has these anymore, you'll have to do it with a standard induction timing light. Get the engine warm, and hook up your timing light to the #1 plug wire- then disconnect your coolant temperature sender. This is important!! The computer adjusts your timing in part according to engine temperature, you need to adjust your base timing, not computer-modified timing. Fire the engine up, and set your timing according to your sticker/FSM. Then lock the distributor down and reconnect the temperature sensor. You'll be showing a fault code now because of the sensor being disconnected, but you can erase it if your mech has the proper equipment (ha!), or by disconnecting your battery for five minutes or so.
If not done this way, it will cause the symptoms you're describing: bogging down, low speed drivability, and maybe some high speed misfires. This would be similar to setting a standard ignition without disconnecting your vacuum advance or plugging the vac. port. The computer requires an accurate base timing and crank sensor reading or you'll never get it to run right.
Good luck, and try to find a mechanic that knows something- anything, about Mopars. This one doesn't.
 
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