318 MSD 8388 distributor

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Danny denial

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What is the best MSD box to use with one of these ready to run distributors?
Im looking at a 6AL-2 digital CD with rev limiter but keen for any advice or recommendations.
Currently running a factory electronic dizzy and orange box on a healthy wee 318 with alloy heads.
 
If it's "ready to run" you don't need anything else. You are using an ignition system to trigger another ignition system.
 
Excellent, thanks got your response,
What do I do with the ballast resistor? Do I just bypass it and joint the wires together?

image.jpg
 
I have the same 8388 distributor. I joined the wires for the ballast resistor and I’m also using the msd coil. No issues
 
Msd on a 318? 500 horse? You don't need that. Run it if you want.
 
Post #4's question is a recurring question/problem on this site & others.
[1] If you using the same coil that was used with the Bal Res, then the BR must be kept.
[2] If you are using a new/different coil that does not require a BR, then the BR is not needed & the wires can be joined together. Two excellent & cheap coils that you could use here are the MSD #8207 or Summit # 850500. These will give more spark output than any canister coil & maximise the benefit of the R-to-R dist.
[3] The new dist requires full 12v. If a BR coil is used, the wiring is a bit tricky.
 
You already have an electronic distributor, why not do a plug and play FAB module and the coil that he recommends. It has a rev limiter. No cutting and splicing wires. Check it out.
 
Bewy said:
Post #4's question is a recurring question/problem on this site & others.
[1] If you using the same coil that was used with the Bal Res, then the BR must be kept.

[2] If you are using a new/different coil that does not require a BR, then the BR is not needed & the wires can be joined together.

[3] The new dist requires full 12v. If a BR coil is used, the wiring is a bit tricky.
Click to expand...

In short, the new R-R and new coil require the ballast to be jumped out & the wires connected. Correct?
 
Yes, FBO. Thank you for the correction! I have it in my '69 and like it, it's also made in America.
 
Rumble,
The OP has not mentioned what coil he is using, which is why I covered using a BR coil or a non-BR coil.
To your specific question: correct, wires get jumped out iiiiiif the coil being used does not require a BR. Then add the dist + wire to this bunch of wires, job done.
If the OP is using the original coil or other coil that requires a BR, the wiring gets a bit tricky because of how Mother designed the ign circuitry.
The coil requires full 12v [ BR bypassed ] during cranking, but then requires the BR in the cct engine running; the new dist requires full 12v in both modes.
The only way I could see to do this was with a diode or a relay. I used a 4 pin relay, I think a relay is more reliable in this instance. I did a 68 Polara recently. I used the yw wire on the starter/ign relay to energise the relay for cranking mode. The relay contacts then supply the new dist with full 12v during the cranking mode.
 
The FBO kit has a jumper wire to ( I think) bypass the ballast. Coil is a 1.5 ohm. Should have a good set of suppression wires.
 
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