318 simple bolt on setup for more horsepower

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Leemajor707

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I have a 71 Duster with the 318 and was trying to get a simple setup for more horsepower strictly bolt on if anybody got any information on that I would love to hear about it
 
Cam, carb,exhaust,gears,ignition,etc...

650 on a Performer with headers and comp's XE262H supposed to make 282hp @ 5000
 
1. First get dual exhaust, minimum 2 1/4" to 2 1/2"...

2. Get a good dual plane intake like an Edelbrock LD340, RPM air gap, or Wiand Stealth and 4 bbl carb.

3. Toss the crappy stock timing chain and get a good double roller timing chain.

4. Then get a good cam around 260 - 270 duration.

Read this thread and see what you can do with it. It's a nice low buck 318 hop up:

my Low dollar 318 hop-up project
 
1. First get dual exhaust, minimum 2 1/4" to 2 1/2"...

2. Get a good dual plane intake like an Edelbrock LD340, RPM air gap, or Wiand Stealth and 4 bbl carb.

3. Toss the crappy stock timing chain and get a good double roller timing chain.

4. Then get a good cam around 260 - 270 duration.

Read this thread and see what you can do with it. It's a nice low buck 318 hop up:

my Low dollar 318 hop-up project
Thanks for the info it's exactly what I'm looking for when I signed up on the forum the engine is coming out soon and I guess I'll start posting pics thanks fellas this car is going to have me cutting back on my fishing time but oh well thanks
 
Thanks for the info it's exactly what I'm looking for when I signed up on the forum the engine is coming out soon and I guess I'll start posting pics thanks fellas this car is going to have me cutting back on my fishing time but oh well thanks

Welcome to FABO... :welcome:
 
If you plan to pull the engine and do any work on the bottom end, Mancini Racing has some great prices on refresh kits. Basic kit is A or B, then more elaborate C & D kits...

Then you can go from there...

Here's a nice basic start with main and rod bearings, moly rings, and complete gasket kit for $205

Sealed Power Engine Kit - 318

Here's the refresh kit main page:

Engine Rebuild Kits
 
Thanks for the info it's exactly what I'm looking for when I signed up on the forum the engine is coming out soon and I guess I'll start posting pics thanks fellas this car is going to have me cutting back on my fishing time but oh well thanks
Do a 2.25 inch exhaust, that engine is not making nearly enough power to warrant 2.5. As a general rule, more free flowing exhausts = more horsepower/top end and a more restrictive exhaust = more low end torque. Example, 2.5 in will support 400 horsepower. If you installed a 3 in, you'd get more top end and if you installed a 2.25 you'd get more low end. Obviously there is a lot more too it and it is possible to be too restrictive and too free flowing.
 
If you plan to pull the engine and do any work on the bottom end, Mancini Racing has some great prices on refresh kits. Basic kit is A or B, then more elaborate C & D kits...

Then you can go from there...

Here's a nice basic start with main and rod bearings, moly rings, and complete gasket kit for $205

Sealed Power Engine Kit - 318

Here's the refresh kit main page:

Engine Rebuild Kits
Yep I am planning on taking the engine out and I did want to do some work to the bottom end and my plan was just to put new gasket the whole engine and add a few new parts but I'm going to check in on this kit that you just posted thanks
 
Do a 2.25 inch exhaust, that engine is not making nearly enough power to warrant 2.5. As a general rule, more free flowing exhausts = more horsepower/top end and a more restrictive exhaust = more low end torque. Example, 2.5 in will support 400 horsepower. If you installed a 3 in, you'd get more top end and if you installed a 2.25 you'd get more low end. Obviously there is a lot more too it and it is possible to be too restrictive and too free flowing.
My brother had always had dual exhaust on this Duster he was in the Army and he had it shipped from Germany when he came back home then he had the dual exhaust running out the side I always remember burning my legs getting out of his car when I was a little kid now he got the exhaust running out the Tell end they look like two 2.25 but I will double check
 
Thanks for the info it's exactly what I'm looking for when I signed up on the forum the engine is coming out soon and I guess I'll start posting pics thanks fellas this car is going to have me cutting back on my fishing time but oh well thanks
What would be a good 4 barrel carburetor for that setup
 
Yep I am planning on taking the engine out and I did want to do some work to the bottom end and my plan was just to put new gasket the whole engine and add a few new parts but I'm going to check in on this kit that you just posted thanks

You can buy a ball hone for about $50 at NAPA and do a quick skim on the cylinder walls, then install new rings and bearings, rear main seal, and fresh gaskets...

Then put it together with the upgrades mentioned above...

Here are some threads that you may want to look through:

How to ID a SB Engine Block:

How to assemble the front of a small block

How to Check Compression
 
What would be a good 4 barrel carburetor for that setup
Depends what the rest of your build is going to be like. You could just get an eddy 1406 (since they are very simple to tune and get accustomed to) or a holley double pumper and really let that motor scream. The carb that goes on should be directed correlated to how aggressive the rest of the setup is going to be and how much fuel the engine will want. For something like this though, I would just suggest that 1406 due to that it is an easy carb to tune, is very versatile and in the future if you choose to replace it, easy to sell.
 
Depends what the rest of your build is going to be like. You could just get an eddy 1406 (since they are very simple to tune and get accustomed to) or a holley double pumper and really let that motor scream. The carb that goes on should be directed correlated to how aggressive the rest of the setup is going to be and how much fuel the engine will want. For something like this though, I would just suggest that 1406 due to that it is an easy carb to tune, is very versatile and in the future if you choose to replace it, easy to sell.
I was hoping I could go with an Edelbrock
 
Depends what the rest of your build is going to be like. You could just get an eddy 1406 (since they are very simple to tune and get accustomed to) or a holley double pumper and really let that motor scream. The carb that goes on should be directed correlated to how aggressive the rest of the setup is going to be and how much fuel the engine will want. For something like this though, I would just suggest that 1406 due to that it is an easy carb to tune, is very versatile and in the future if you choose to replace it, easy to sell.
My bad eddy is a Edelbrock lol my wife is in my ear
 
I will add that your heads wouldn't have the hardened seats for todays fuels. They can be installed in your current heads, or, very easy to grab another set with hardened seats from the factory (couple of years newer) and get them ready (I really advise home porting) to speed up the down time of your engine.
 
I was hoping I could go with an Edelbrock

Edelbrock is good also. Just match the carb and manifold. If you are going with carter or holley square bore, get a square bore intake like the LD340, Wiand Stealth, or RPM Air gap...

If you like spread bore, then go with a thermoquad or holley spread bore and the wiand action plus intake.

That way you don't loose power with adapter plates...
 
Action plus takes square bore, no adaptor. I have one on a 360 right now.. Just sayn'
 
Your never going to be happy with this 318...I would start saving my money for another bullet....I would not spend a penny on the 318....
 
Your never going to be happy with this 318...I would start saving my money for another bullet....I would not spend a penny on the 318....
FOR SURE..... You will NEVER be happy..... NEVER.... :(
We can pick out your wife too, to be sure your happy :D
 
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