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66VALIANT

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Alright guys i got a 318 with j heads with 1.88 valves and shaved 60 thousands a edelbrock torker single plane intake im puttin a double roller chain on hi volume oil pump regular fuel pump hopefully headers 4 speed 3.55 gear what cam do i go with and what else should i do or should i change somthin its goin in a 66 valiant. should i degree the cam what rockers should i get what valve springs . i was gonna go with a big block but changed my mind. thanks guys GIT-R-DONE
 
If you have .060 taken off the heads you'd better check your pushrod length because you'll need either custom length pushrods or rocker shaft shims. With the Torker single plane manifold, I wouldn't go too radical on the cam or you'll completely kill your bottom end torque. You should be O.K. with your stock type rocker, and your valve spring decision will depend on your choice of cams. Summit has a couple of cams that might do the trick for you, but stick with the smaller one with the 318. Also, your header choices for the 66 Valiant are very limited and big $$$, that's why I'm still running manifolds on mine. :)
 
Yes, I would degree the cam to make sure it is right. With a 318 I would go milder, maybe a 268* max cam and that single plane is going to kill your low end torque. Spitfire or Laysons headers should work on a 318 pretty well and I think they are around $500.
I agree, pushrods will have to be custom and I like adjustable rockers, even the old 273 style rockers work well.
 
66VALIANT said:
Alright guys i got a 318 with j heads with 1.88 valves and shaved 60 thousands a edelbrock torker single plane intake im puttin a double roller chain on hi volume oil pump regular fuel pump hopefully headers 4 speed 3.55 gear what cam do i go with and what else should i do or should i change somthin its goin in a 66 valiant. should i degree the cam what rockers should i get what valve springs . i was gonna go with a big block but changed my mind. thanks guys GIT-R-DONE
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definately degree the cam, check the lifter preload, piston-to-valve clearance, and pushrod length....definately.

Thats pretty much my basic setup and im trying to hunt down a high 13 second slip in a full weighted ebody. Dial everything in and it should run pretty well :drinkers: :thumblef:
 
Could i put the magnum heads on here and just buy a new intake, i work in a junkyard so there not to hard for me to find
 
Magnum heads need a Magnum intake (like a Edelbrock Air Gap). You need
AMC V-8 lifters and special length pushrods(both from Mopar Performance).
The magnum heads oil through the pushrods instead of through the head and
rocker shaft. The magnum heads have a smaller combustion chamber which raises your 318's compression to over 9-1. They also have higher flowing ports that respond well to port matching and bowl blending. When you choose a cam choose one with a little more lift and duration on the exhaust side. A windage tray for the oil pan is supposed to give you a few extra
horses but seems to gain more on stroker motors. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. Mike
 
I built a 318 like the 400HP build but I made a few small changes, "cleaned up" the Magnum heads, XE268H cam , stock `72 340 intake and a Demonsizzler modded TQ.

This is a strong 318. I do not notice any low lack of low end torque but a stall is needed if you run an automatic.

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The cam in my thread (rumblesfishs duster) is a small one that works well. Cranes 272/284 -.454/.480 on a 112 C-line. Duration @ .050 is 216/228.
I have used this with the TorkerII before. It shouldn't require a stall converter, but it would help if there was a small stall behind it.
I used it in a 4spd '73 Cuda and 3.23's. W/225/60/14's at the time. (I think it was) The split duration will help with the stock heads. You could go larger like the one in the 400 HP 318 build and still be streetable easy.
 
frankwest said:
I built a 318 like the 400HP build but I made a few small changes, "cleaned up" the Magnum heads, XE268H cam , stock `72 340 intake and a Demonsizzler modded TQ.

This is a strong 318. I do not notice any low lack of low end torque but a stall is needed if you run an automatic.

car05005.gif
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Any dyno or track numbers? you've got my curiosity goin to see if thats really about 400hp like they said in the article :thumblef:

car05005.gif
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
Any dyno or track numbers? you've got my curiosity goin to see if thats really about 400hp like they said in the article :thumblef:
Click to expand...

Not yet, I installed the engine last year and promply cooked the transmission. So the trans and 7.25 rear end came out and I'm now waiting on the trans kit. I just finished installing a 8.25 w/3.21 SG.

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66valiant, Your build has caught my interest.... Ihave a 318 in my 63 dart and was going to swap for a 360 but, I just can't seem to save the money for it. I also am running the j-heads from a 360 with a performer rpm manifold. the rpm manifold has the larger intake runners to fit the j-heads better. I didn't know much about the compression loss swapping to the bigger heads when I did it and now I have no bottom end. I was wanting to shave my heads also. You said you went 60 thousandths on yours. Did you have to shave the intake? I was also wondering if you are running flattop pistons or the ones with the valve reliefs. Also mopar performance sells a thin head gasket (i believe it's .021 compressed) would this be safe to run with stock pistons and a mild lift cam? I already have adjustable rockers and headers. My heads were rebuilt less than 6 months ago and run great.
 
63dartman said:
66valiant, Your build has caught my interest.... Ihave a 318 in my 63 dart and was going to swap for a 360 but, I just can't seem to save the money for it. I also am running the j-heads from a 360 with a performer rpm manifold. the rpm manifold has the larger intake runners to fit the j-heads better. I didn't know much about the compression loss swapping to the bigger heads when I did it and now I have no bottom end. I was wanting to shave my heads also. You said you went 60 thousandths on yours. Did you have to shave the intake? I was also wondering if you are running flattop pistons or the ones with the valve reliefs. Also mopar performance sells a thin head gasket (i believe it's .021 compressed) would this be safe to run with stock pistons and a mild lift cam? I already have adjustable rockers and headers. My heads were rebuilt less than 6 months ago and run great.
Click to expand...

Not sure if you are asking me, but.

I run J-heads on my motor, stock bottom end, .030 flat tops, not decked. I have 9.7:1cr, my heads are shaved, i have 56cc chambers. I run a performer rpm intake, comp .480lift - 280duration cam, msd 6a, converter, 3.91s, etc, etc and im at 14.3 in a full weight barracuda on radials. I definately have more tuning to do, my 60ft is way high at 2.1...and also getting a higher stall converter. Should dip into 13s without much more work...just my .02cents, and it is a daily driver
 
I had a 360 with some smog heads that had been milled .020 and I ran into problems trying to line the intake bolts up (intake wasn't milled), can't even to begin to imagine what .060 would be like.

Hey Goodys, you running a 727 or a 904?
 
hey i never ran this setup but i did shave the intake to it fit perfect the machine shop just needs the head gasket to the heads and the block to measure it up and do it
 
Lars said:
I had a 360 with some smog heads that had been milled .020 and I ran into problems trying to line the intake bolts up (intake wasn't milled), can't even to begin to imagine what .060 would be like.

Hey Goodys, you running a 727 or a 904?
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Anytime you mill the heads the intake or the intake face (on the heads) will have to be milled in order to fit right. Any amount of milling.

And I'm running a rebuilt 904, TF-2 Shift kit, low gear set. Soon to have a Dynamic 9 1/2" Converter :thumblef:
 
The bad thing about milling heads and intakes is that they allways have to be kept together as a set. That milled intake won't work on another set of non milled heads. Also, if you want to try another intake you'll have to mill it to fit those milled heads. toolmanmike
 
Isn't that is why MoPar says to mill the intake face of the head? So you won't have the match head/intake combo.

The have a formula of mill the deck of the head .*** and then the intake face of the head .XXXX
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
Anytime you mill the heads the intake or the intake face (on the heads) will have to be milled in order to fit right. Any amount of milling.

And I'm running a rebuilt 904, TF-2 Shift kit, low gear set. Soon to have a Dynamic 9 1/2" Converter :thumblef:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know that now, this was several years ago. Cool on the 904, I made the mistake a long time ago of believing a guy that told me my 904 wouldn't hold up behind my 318 (pffft, this was before I knew anything about cars in general) so I stuck a 727 behind it. Boy it sure did slow that 318 down a lot. Stick some 4.30's in that Cuda and get your 13's. :D
 
rumblefish360 said:
Isn't that is why MoPar says to mill the intake face of the head? So you won't have the match head/intake combo.

The have a formula of mill the deck of the head .*** and then the intake face of the head .XXXX
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Yep, you shouldddd mill the intake face of the heads so that any stock fitting intake will slide right on there. My j-heads/performer rpm were given to me and were already milled. :drinkers:
 
Thanks Goody. I just keep reading "You have to mill the intake to fit it to the head. But yet I read in the books from MoPar and other that you just mill the head.
Yea, intakes are cheaper, but, then you have to mill every intake before you install it. Now that doesn't make sense to me.
 
Isn't that is why MoPar says to mill the intake face of the head? So you won't have the match head/intake combo.
Click to expand...

Assume you are starting with a stock deck height (which vary anyway)

If you mill your heads to raise your comp, you will also need to shave the port faces to accomodate a STOCK intake. (I am sure you are onto this.. :thumbup: )

Any variation in the deck height or intake face angle and you have a bit of measuring to do...

BTW..I agree with your Cam recommendation...the Cranes make good torquey profiles in the smaller numbers......I'm suprised they don't get used more often in your part of the world... 8-)
 
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