340 528. Purple cam question

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ValerianMagnum

ValerianMagnum

the little car that could
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528/284 solid cam , the guy only as the pushrods. , told me had to buy 273 rockers , am i missing something else ? He said that with poly locks this set up can run without adjustment for a while , im wondering if its really worth it , looks expensive for all the missing parts , dont know if i rather go hydraulic , looking for a healthy 375 400 hp duster for the street.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
528/284 solid cam , the guy only as the pushrods. , told me had to buy 273 rockers , am i missing something else ? He said that with poly locks this set up can run without adjustment for a while , im wondering if its really worth it , looks expensive for all the missing parts , dont know if i rather go hydraulic , looking for a healthy 375 400 hp duster for the street.
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poly locks? isn't that a Chevy thing? are we talking LA or magnum heads?
 
I ran that cam for 10 years. 273 rockers and pushrods are the easiest way to go, but there are other adjustable rockers out there also that would require different pushrods.Also make sure to use a quality oil with higher zinc content or an additive
 
ValerianMagnum said:
528/284 solid cam , the guy only as the pushrods. , told me had to buy 273 rockers , am i missing something else ? He said that with poly locks this set up can run without adjustment for a while , im wondering if its really worth it , looks expensive for all the missing parts , dont know if i rather go hydraulic , looking for a healthy 375 400 hp duster for the street.
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The guy is mixing up his terms.

What he wanted to say was make sure you use adjusters that use a jam nut instead of the tapered adjuster Chrysler used.

I'm pretty sure jpar posted a thread about how he converted them over. It's fairly straight forward.
 
You Need what Tony posted in post 5. That's a great cam. Run it.
 
Do you guys ha the lonks about these posts about jpar and tony ? Dont know if i shoyld runs these or a good hydraulic set up.. Never ran a solid cam
 
ValerianMagnum said:
Do you guys ha the lonks about these posts about jpar and tony ? Dont know if i shoyld runs these or a good hydraulic set up.. Never ran a solid cam
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It is a great cam, you can rev higher without float, lots of good midrange power. You will need a high stall converter or stick, and I suggest at least 3:55's. I ran it with a performer rpm and it worked well.
 
No need to find a safe space over a solid camshaft.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
Do you guys ha the lonks about these posts about jpar and tony ? Dont know if i shoyld runs these or a good hydraulic set up.. Never ran a solid cam
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I not good at finding links but there are several out there.

Unless I was doing a bone *** stocker (and even then...I'd have to think about it) I'd use a SFT every time.

Me personally, I'm not a fan of hydraulic rollers. If you want a roller, go solid roller.
 
The more I learn about camshafts, the more I do not like hydraulic. All the Chevy boys run um. LOL

We have this customer.....has a pretty nice pro street 68 Chevelle. Nice lookin car. Let "somebody" build a 540 Chevy fat motor for it. FIVE HUNDRED FORTY KYOOBS of Chevy big block. Put a hydraulic roller in it.

Makes zero sense to me. Maybe even negative sense.
 
Moparman1806 said:
It is a great cam, you can rev higher without float, lots of good midrange power. You will need a high stall converter or stick, and I suggest at least 3:55's. I ran it with a performer rpm and it worked well.
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With that cam at 2 degrees adv would turn hard to 7200 rpm. With 5 degrees advance it would go 6800 before it topped out, tons of torque and works good with a dual plane as well if you want. Best "old" street solid cam.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
With that cam at 2 degrees adv would turn hard to 7200 rpm. With 5 degrees advance it would go 6800 before it topped out, tons of torque and works good with a dual plane as well if you want. Best "old" street solid cam.
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....will still whoop some "new" ones.
 
That cam is IMO,a lot more cam than you need for 375/400. Unless you're running some lo-po heads, or a teener . IIRC that cam is about [email protected]
To make the 375/400 in a streeter, You'd be way ahead to put the power in the heads, run a 360, and a small hydro of about [email protected], perhaps even a hair less.
I mean how often are you gonna get to rev that thing to 7000 with 3.55s, since that is about 60 mph in first gear with a stick. And also with a stick, to take off briskly the 2.66x3.55=9.44 starter gear, coupled with the low-rpm torque characteristics of that cam, means a lotta clutch slipping. I mean there ain't a lot of torque below 20mph.While the Duster is light, IMO it ain't light enough for that cam and 3.55s. She'll be wanting something in the 4.xxs. With 4.30s it could be a monster.
Don't forget for your SBM to live at that high rpm, there are some oiling mods that you have to make, else you may be rebuilding the engine a lot earlier than you had planned. Whereas the 228 cam, will peak a good 400 rpm lower, and with a stick might want to be shifted at around 6000/6200. Although with the right combo, you may enjoy stretching it out a little higher from time to time.
Once again, put the power in the heads. It might be a lil pricey to start with, but you will save tons of money in the long term

Just my 2cents,again
 
241 @ .050 on a 112. Nuff said.

Also, keep in mind, when comparing a solid to a hydraulic, the solid will "act"about 10* smaller, so to compare apples to apples here, that .528 now is lookin more like 231 @ .050. ......on a 112. Not to mention the mysterious fact that Mopar cams rarely stack up to their specs on a degree wheel.

Still think it's "too big"?

Hardly.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
Thinking about my friend s mustang 5 speed if i had to run 4.10..4.30s
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You won't have to run 4:10's, I personally ran that cam varying between 3:55 and 4:56 in an E body. Yes, with the steeper gear it had more snap, but it will with a milder cam also. As for the oil, they have been pulling the zinc out of the oil for several years now. Flat tappets need that lubrication, especially with the higher spring pressures. They do sell additives
 
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