340 has a hard time starting when hot?

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Just change it to EFI then you won't have that problem anymore durrr... lol just kidding

I've had fuel boiling issues a lot being at higher altitude and figured out ways to stop it or at least make it less severe. On the 360 in my '70 Duster I have a non-Air Gap RPM intake (runs a bit hotter than an Air Gap but temps are much more consistent and it's better behaved in winter) and Eddy Al heads so no exhaust crossover, also one of the newer Street Demon carbs with the plastic body like an old TQ and a 1/2" wood fiber spacer. I installed a fuel filter with the vapor return port but actually haven't really had a need to hook it up yet; also don't feel like running hard line all the way back to the tank lol. Just some food for thought.
 
2 pages and 27 posts and we still don't have any details. WHAT FRIKKIN CARBURETOR DOES THE THING HAVE ON IT?
 
I had the same problem with my 67 273 2 brl. Also at hot idle I could watch that clear plastic fuel filter fill and empty repeatedly. So the fuel was peculating in the bowl all the time.
I changed the fuel line to the 73 design that relocates the fuel filter to vertical beside the timing cover and installed the thickest carb base gasket available for that 2 brl. Both problems solved.
I do buy ethanol free locally today but I can run either.
 
agepag said:
Sorry, car is at my fathers, but I will take a look this week
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Ok, that would help, thanks. IF IT IS "some kinda" AFB, AVS, or Edelbrock variant and it does not have the THICK insulator gasket under it, it needs one badly. I would recommend the Edelbrock 9265, or 9266, depending on what style intake it has. The 9255 is an open hole gasket and the 9266 is the divided plenum gasket. So whichever intake you have, there is a gasket for it. DO NOT substitute for these gaskets. They are very thick (over 1/4") and other gaskets fall short. "This could" solve your problem.
 
RedFish said:
I had the same problem with my 67 273 2 brl. Also at hot idle I could watch that clear plastic fuel filter fill and empty repeatedly. So the fuel was peculating in the bowl all the time.
I changed the fuel line to the 73 design that relocates the fuel filter to vertical beside the timing cover and installed the thickest carb base gasket available for that 2 brl. Both problems solved.
I do buy ethanol free locally today but I can run either.
Click to expand...
If fuel filter and rubber hose connections leak with the older style setup on top
of the engine its more to heat buildup and FIRE.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Ok, that would help, thanks. IF IT IS "some kinda" AFB, AVS, or Edelbrock variant and it does not have the THICK insulator gasket under it, it needs one badly. I would recommend the Edelbrock 9265, or 9266, depending on what style intake it has. The 9255 is an open hole gasket and the 9266 is the divided plenum gasket. So whichever intake you have, there is a gasket for it. DO NOT substitute for these gaskets. They are very thick (over 1/4") and other gaskets fall short. "This could" solve your problem.
Click to expand...

Hornin in here , I have a return f.inj. set up "no boiling gas anywhere, when I drive the car and its warmed up , it wont turn over on the first hit of the key, second hit turns over and starts, has always done it when at normal temps. , but seems to be getting worse , did it upon cold start up yesterday. Cranks good when turning over ------Any ideas ??
 
famous bob said:
Hornin in here , I have a return f.inj. set up "no boiling gas anywhere, when I drive the car and its warmed up , it wont turn over on the first hit of the key, second hit turns over and starts, has always done it when at normal temps. , but seems to be getting worse , did it upon cold start up yesterday. Cranks good when turning over ------Any ideas ??
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That sounds like something electrical. If it does it faithfully, what I would do is watch your volt or amp gauge if you have one the first time you try it, OR put an amp meter on it and try it. If the meter or gauge does nothing or very little on that first attempt, you're losing "something" "somewhere".
 
RustyRatRod said:
That sounds like something electrical. If it does it faithfully, what I would do is watch your volt or amp gauge if you have one the first time you try it, OR put an amp meter on it and try it. If the meter or gauge does nothing or very little on that first attempt, you're losing "something" "somewhere".
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Will check, was wondering if the stock cable from the solenoid to the starter is too small for 10.5 comp and 505 cubes . ??
Solenoid is about where the heater motor use to be . Its where the ''free'' no.1 welding cable reached to from the trunk mount battery /on the pass side .
 
famous bob said:
Will check, was wondering if the stock cable from the solenoid to the starter is too small for 10.5 comp and 505 cubes . ??
Solenoid is about where the heater motor use to be . Its where the ''free'' no.1 welding cable reached to from the trunk mount battery /on the pass side .
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I wouldn't think it would be. If it starts as you say good that second time, I wouldn't think the cable size would be the problem. I would be looking for a connection loss somewhere. How many grounds do you have on it? Such as from the engine to the chassis and firewall and such?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wouldn't think it would be. If it starts as you say good that second time, I wouldn't think the cable size would be the problem. I would be looking for a connection loss somewhere. How many grounds do you have on it? Such as from the engine to the chassis and firewall and such?
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alum. engine plate, fore and aft engine limiters on each side of the block, small
braided ground strap on pass side head to firewall. GROUNDS ALL OVER THE PLACE /TRUNK MOUNTED BATTERY IS GROUNDED TO BODY BACK THERE , BUT THE F.INJ. IS GROUNDED CLEAR BACK TO THE BATTERY. wouldn't THINK IT WOULD BE A GROUND PROBLEM. ?? DISREGARD CAPS , CANT KEEP MY CLUMSY *** OF THE CAP BUTTON ! lol
 
famous bob said:
Will check, was wondering if the stock cable from the solenoid to the starter is too small for 10.5 comp and 505 cubes . ??
Solenoid is about where the heater motor use to be . Its where the ''free'' no.1 welding cable reached to from the trunk mount battery /on the pass side .
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Check the ends on the cable, see if there is any corrosion or broken wires. Also if the cable gets hot while cranking it's too small.

I never thought about my small block cranking until I relocated the battery to the trunk. I ran a O or OO welding cable from the solenoid in the trunk directly to the starter. It cranks and starts better now then ever before. The starter even sounds different.
 
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To the OP, my experience with starting problems after sitting were carb heat soak and percolation. it would act just like a coffee pot and perc gas out of the squirters. In my case the engine was flooded and I would have to hold it wide open to get it to finally start.
 
otor plate , fore and aft engine limiters on bothe sides of the block , and a
justinp61 said:
To the OP, my experience with starting problems after sitting were carb heat soak and percolation. it would act just like a coffee pot and perc gas out of the squirters. In my case the engine was flooded and I would have to hold it wide open to get it to finally start.
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throttle body doesn`t get much heat, its up in the 6 pack scoop , on a victor intake ./ doesn`t run wortha crap till it gets warmed up !
halifaxhops said:
You getting spark when it acts up?
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wouldn`t start if it wasn`t---------
 
justinp61 said:
Check the ends on the cable, see if there is any corrosion or broken wires. Also if the cable gets hot while cranking it's too small.

I never thought about my small block cranking until I relocated the battery to the trunk. I ran a O or OO welding cable from the solenoid in the trunk directly to the starter. It cranks and starts better now then ever before. The starter even sounds different.
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I have always used no 2 welding cable before , and never hada problem. this is the heaviest cable I`ve ever used , don't think that's it at all .
 
justinp61 said:
To the OP, my experience with starting problems after sitting were carb heat soak and percolation. it would act just like a coffee pot and perc gas out of the squirters. In my case the engine was flooded and I would have to hold it wide open to get it to finally start.
Click to expand...

This was in response to the original poster, agepag in regards to his hard start issues.
 
justinp61 said:
Check the ends on the cable, see if there is any corrosion or broken wires. Also if the cable gets hot while cranking it's too small.

I never thought about my small block cranking until I relocated the battery to the trunk. I ran a O or OO welding cable from the solenoid in the trunk directly to the starter. It cranks and starts better now then ever before. The starter even sounds different.
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cable doesn`t get hot, no corrosion--------
 
What about running a 3 fitting fuel filter where the filter has a vent and hook the third outlet to the return vent line back to the tank
 
So I checked and my fathers car has a Holly Carburetor

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$12.99 electric jiggler fuel pump in line with stock pump. Hit the pump before you start it for about 15 seconds and it will prime your boiled empty bowls. turn it off after it starts. Your mechanical pump will pull right through it. If your mechanical pump fails, the low pressure pump will even get you home.
Universal Fuel Pump HEP-02A New Gold Electric Gas Diesel Inline Low Pressure 12V | eBay

Carter/brock carbs are much more sensative to heat than Holleys with their isolated fuel bowls. I had a gummed up advance plate in my 340 once, did the same thing.Starter woulf turn faster and faster while I was pumping the gas and it would finally start. Not cool on a 8 car ferry when your the lead car!
 
agepag said:
So driving my fathers 340 dart, every time I take it for a drive and park it, I cannot start it? Usually I take it to the local car show, car runs abit hot, but after sitting for 1-2 hours its really hard to start? Any suggestions....

THanks
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I use a thermal block gasket between the carb and intake manifold on my 340 with a Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump, steel uncovered fuel line - no issues even in the hottest of weather.
 
Check the Pic in Post #22. That alum. base plate blocks a lot of heat. Also heat insulator gasket helps as well.
 
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