340 mopar intake issue

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MoparPat

MoparPat

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ok guys, I have a 340 with a mopar intake. I paid 100 bucks for, paid 175 to get polished and 85 bucks to have powder clear coat on it, came out pretty darn good. Now I put it all together and WTF it does not have a coolant outlet to go to the heater core, there's no boss there to drill and tap. My question is this, has anybody been thru this or am I the only dumb$h!t that did not look good enough. and any suggestions on how to fix, I do no want to take off, sealed sooo good

100_2274.jpg

100_2274.jpg
 
Dumb ***....lol (meant in jest...)
You can just drill and tap the hole for a hose nipple to the right of the thermostat bore (passenger's side).
BTW, I went thru a battery on the cordless preoiling a stroker last night before i realized I was turning the oil pump in the wrong direction...lol. I looked in the mirror and said the asme thing to myself.. "Dumb ***"
 
Didn't some factory cars.....(like maybe Pontiac?) have a heater hose nipple back on the rear coolant passage, where it mates (and is blocked off) by the end of the intake manifold? Maybe you could drill into there.....it might even be fairly thick there.
 
moper said:
Dumb ***....lol (meant in jest...)
You can just drill and tap the hole for a hose nipple to the right of the thermostat bore (passenger's side).
BTW, I went thru a battery on the cordless preoiling a stroker last night before i realized I was turning the oil pump in the wrong direction...lol. I looked in the mirror and said the asme thing to myself.. "Dumb ***"
Click to expand...

Tha's my concern how thick is it there with out a boss, the hole for the temp sending unit has a boss, so that makes me think it should have one too.
 
My old edelbrock, that mech gauge had to be drilled and tapped.
How will you keep shavings out, without pulling the manifold, first?
Then you can measure, and find a thick place to tap.

edel gauge.JPG


edel gauge 1.JPG
 
Hmmm, looks like that might be a good spot to put it. I could remove the hose and thermostat to clean the inside of shavings and check thickness b-4 I start drilling
 
So long as you are careful I think you're safe doing it without a cast boss there. Liquid pipe thread sealant will seal and be tight. But dont overtightent it. It only holds 18psi... so a little teflon thread sealant and you're good to go. I've done it for senders before and I wouldnt hesitate to do it again. You could also use the thicker section as the other posted did around the thermostat. Or have a chunk of aluminum tig welded over the water port area and bore into that. Then it's a little polishing to match.
 
I would drill and tap a hole wherever you feel comfortable having your heater hose ran to and then I would screw in a an aluminum fitting with a backing nut and also with a threaded center hole and then I would tig weld the fitting to the intake for safety measure (mask off the entire intake just to be sure you dont screw up that pretty polish job) and then polish up the welds which wouldnt take but about 15 minutes of elbow grease I would think.

Then you could screw in a heater hose nipple into the threaded center hole.
It would look factory and shouldnt cost anything but a couple beers to get a buddy to weld it up for you (if you do not have the tools to do so) and a bit of time removing the intake to avoid metal shavings from drilling and polishing it up.

The only thing that you may have to have redone is the clear coat.

Or if you want to avoid the welding and possibly a re clear coat job, you could always drill and tap it and use a hardened thread sealer/locker?

up to you....either way its not a hard fix by the looks of it and MAN DOES THAT INTAKE LOOK SWEEEEEEET!!!!
 
I have seen some performance applications run a type of thermostat spacer that raises the water outlet up. These could also be drilled for bypass and temp gauge fittings I would expect. Watch for interferience with the carb and air cleaner base.

Here is a link to a Moroso listing to give you an idea (Only found Chevy on the list however).

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=29400
 
Rocket said:
I have seen some performance applications run a type of thermostat spacer that raises the water outlet up. These could also be drilled for bypass and temp gauge fittings I would expect. Watch for interferience with the carb and air cleaner base.

Here is a link to a Moroso listing to give you an idea (Only found Chevy on the list however).

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=29400
Click to expand...

Mopar and chevy are the same thing if memory serves correct.
And that is his best bet. That way he's not screwing up that nice intake.
 
i would use the chevy stat houseing with the hose fitting before i go though all that work on that nice intake....i used 1 on my x-cal intake that turns to where my radi hose go so i would not have all that turn bend and what not...hay moper i got 1 for you when i put my 340 together i put the oil in it and started to prim the pump but my dumb azz didnt put the filter on and i looked down and said hay dumb azz put the filter on and about 2qts of oil hahaha...
 
What kind of intake is that?? M1 Single Plane?

On my M1 I had to drill out and re tap for the heater hose also. I used one of the holes already there that you would usually put a plug in on the Drivers side of the intake.

That is a VERY nice looking intake!
 
They sell 1" & 2" thermostat housing spacers that have extra ports, you will need a spot for your temp gauge anyway. They also come in anodized colors.

I used one for a sb Chevy (same bolt pattern) just may need to run a sb Chevy thermostat and thermostat housing on top of it. I went with the 45deg Chevy housing so my hose would clear my blower but they have straight ones, the Mopar housing may work as well on the spacer.
 
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