340 recommendations

[1930]

Hi guys, a fellow down south from me had a ramcharger for sale a a parts vehicle only, stated the engine was a 340 and originally came out of a 69 R.R. rebuilt with less than 500 miles, Body in poor condition and not much else.

I rolled the dice and made the 3 hr trip to go see it and sure enough I was able to confirm the 340 cast into the drivers side block.

The owner was at work but he had his brother there and the brother said it did run and was a screamer. For the money he was asking I couldnt walk away.

The truck itself is a mess, Im pretty sure there is enough other body parts to sell to re coupe my money but not much more, not sure how he ever drove it, no dashboard even but looking it over it looks like someone had made an attempt to hack into the harness and maybe they did get it started, I dont know.

Freeze plugs are still shiny, paint is flaking off the block where Ive tried to blow off all the pine needles.

Can I get some opinions on how this should be handled. I know it will turn over by hand, thats all I know, supposedly sitting 3-4 years untouched.

Someone has jury rigged some sort of power brake enhancer Im guessing, its all plumbed into the intake and brake booster.

Seems now that Ive cleaned it up a little but that maybe I got too good of a deal for what I paid ( 800 dollars ) and Id like to not make something worse than it might be if you know what I mean.

Ive ordered that tool that fits in the drill to prime the oil system. Im guessing Im gonna need another carb??? One on it looks like its been sitting a while.

Hes got an electric fuel pump somewhere with a regulator and gauge and Im thinking Im gonna buy a mechanical pump.

Intake is strange in that its says Edelbrock but has a Chrysler part number I believe on the backside? LD340 is cast into it. What is LD?

Heads have been changed and assuming these are at least comparable to the stock 340 heads?

I know ( or believe ) that its been punched out .060 over, owner told me so and the box of speedpro pistons is still laying in the back with the old pistons in it.

Ill attach some pictures and would appreciate any feedback. Thanks

 

[yellow rose]

As long as it ain't cracked it should be ok to start. Make sure there isn't any water in the cylinders. Fresh plugs and a known carb. Crack that thing off.

 

[1930]

I forgot to mention, maybe a stupid question but the oil dipstick is wrong, much too long, Ive got spare 318, are they the same?

 

[yellow rose]

I forgot to mention, maybe a stupid question but the oil dipstick is wrong, much too long, Ive got spare 318, are they the same?

It depends on the pan and where the sump is. Other than that, all the small block dip sticks are the same.

I forgot to mention fresh oil and a new filter before firing as well.

 

[1930]

Thanks definitely on the list. So if this sump is in the rear and one of the 318 that I have in one of my trucks is in the rear than it would be the same dip-stick?

 

[pauly]

Nice. LD340 is an old hi pic piece that is still very popular. Add that to the eddy heads on that beast and you've got more than your purchase price covered.

 

[nm9stheham]

This has good potential; cngrats if is a good engine. Even then, you have some good parts.

1. Fresh oil and filter
2. Remove plugs and spray some WD40 into the cylinders and turn sloooooowly by hand. Don't force it at any point. There is likely to be some rust in at least one cylinder; how well it will work out is anyone's guess; at worst, it can break a ring and crew up the cylinder walls. (see below)
3. Drain and change the coolant. Those AL heads will be effected adversely by coolant with the additives broken down over time. And if is just very weak anti-freeze mix in there, then the head cooling passages may have a lot of milky crud in them which is corroded aluminum.
4. New plugs, rotor, cap for sure. Clean up the ignition system wiring mess! Test plug wires for consistent resistance
5. Pull carb and dissassemble and clean; its easy to have gummed fuel in there.
6. Pull and drain tank and clean and blow out all fuel lines and change filters. You gotta get ALL of that crappy old fuel outta there! Old fuel can detontate and put holes in pistons, and also can get on valve stems and jam them open and then you have bent valves and pushrods and broken rockers and all the rest.

For #2 above: Personally, I would pull the heads to examine the cylinder walls for rust, get any rust out before it can chew up a cylinder wall or ring. If the block has indeed been bored .060" over, then it is at it's very last bore (unless you are really lucky on that particular block), and 340 blocks run in the $400 range and up for a decent one. Damage to a bore now will probably end that block's life.

Do the same for the intake, head ports, valves and seats and see inside of the head cooling passages. Your have some valuable parts; those heads cost over $1500 new by themselves. In untouched form, those heads flow WAAAY beyond factory heads. Why risk damaging them?

If you pull the heads, take some pix so we can see the pistons. Someone here may be able to ID them for you and then you will know some important info about the engine.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

I would say you got a terrific deal 800 bucks you won

 

[1930]

This has good potential; cngrats if is a good engine. Even then, you have some good parts.

1. Fresh oil and filter
2. Remove plugs and spray some WD40 into the cylinders and turn sloooooowly by hand. Don't force it at any point. There is likely to be some rust in at least one cylinder; how well it will work out is anyone's guess; at worst, it can break a ring and crew up the cylinder walls. (see below)
3. Drain and change the coolant. Those AL heads will be effected adversely by coolant with the additives broken down over time. And if is just very weak anti-freeze mix in there, then the head cooling passages may have a lot of milky crud in them which is corroded aluminum.
4. New plugs, rotor, cap for sure. Clean up the ignition system wiring mess! Test plug wires for consistent resistance
5. Pull carb and dissassemble and clean; its easy to have gummed fuel in there.
6. Pull and drain tank and clean and blow out all fuel lines and change filters. You gotta get ALL of that crappy old fuel outta there! Old fuel can detontate and put holes in pistons, and also can get on valve stems and jam them open and then you have bent valves and pushrods and broken rockers and all the rest.

For #2 above: Personally, I would pull the heads to examine the cylinder walls for rust, get any rust out before it can chew up a cylinder wall or ring. If the block has indeed been bored .060" over, then it is at it's very last bore (unless you are really lucky on that particular block), and 340 blocks run in the $400 range and up for a decent one. Damage to a bore now will probably end that block's life.

Do the same for the intake, head ports, valves and seats and see inside of the head cooling passages. Your have some valuable parts; those heads cost over $1500 new by themselves. In untouched form, those heads flow WAAAY beyond factory heads. Why risk damaging them?

If you pull the heads, take some pix so we can see the pistons. Someone here may be able to ID them for you and then you will know some important info about the engine.

I pulled the plugs and they look like they have not been fired, already everything new ignition wise I believe but will double check, coolant is super green.

I think Im gonna just run it off a temporary gas can, fuel system look pretty jurry rigged and I dont think its worth messing with. I just want to know if its any good and then yank it out for another truck.

Im gonna pull the heads like you suggest, I have a truck in mind that I want to put this engine in and I wouldnt put it in there until it was all freshly painted, Id like to clean up the intake, heads ect also.

Ill take plenty of pics. Thanks