340stroker engine combo help

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moper said:
Geez Mike, as I recall, it was after the assembly debacle. And after that, with the .520 cam, it pulled around 430hp and close to 500tq at the crank. It was .030 before that mess..lol.

.040 over is as big as I'd go, and I wouldnt do it without sonic testing the block first if it's for a 4" arm.
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will sonic check it fore sure its just about 1½-2" of the cylinderwall that does not have any suport from the hardblock but i do understand that massive cylinderpreasure can split a thin bore easily :thumbup: i am realy close to being able to aford all this:)
 
The trick is to sonic check BEFORE you buy anything for it tho...lol. The one we're referring to had a ...minor mishap(?) and needed to be made bigger. It wasnt by choice...lol.
 
Also, if I read right..you have block filler. Sonic checkers will not function properly with hard block in place. The transducers are material specific, and AFAIK will not read right with ceramic behind iron. I've tried iron sleevesin aluminum with mine too...it doesnt read them right either.
 
moper said:
Geez Mike, as I recall, it was after the assembly debacle. And after that, with the .520 cam, it pulled around 430hp and close to 500tq at the crank. It was .030 before that mess..lol.

.040 over is as big as I'd go, and I wouldnt do it without sonic testing the block first if it's for a 4" arm.
Click to expand...

i take it was on a chassis dyno then?? :blob:
 
moper said:
Also, if I read right..you have block filler. Sonic checkers will not function properly with hard block in place. The transducers are material specific, and AFAIK will not read right with ceramic behind iron. I've tried iron sleevesin aluminum with mine too...it doesnt read them right either.
Click to expand...

ok thats a shame:( will i be safer with a stock stroke if the cylinderwalls are impossible to sonic check? its realy hard to find a 340 or 360 block over here.. would realy like to build a stroker but if i cant build a stroker that will be safe and durable i may reconsider and build a stock stroke screamer again
 
To be honest, I'm not that comforatble telling you it's ok. It might be depending on your block's fill level. The max side force should be about 1" down in the piston's travel from what I know. About 40° past TDC. That's where the leverage isnt really good on the crank and the cylinder pressure is becoming greatest. So if the fill is 1/2, it may be "good enough" with a tall piston, but not good enough for a shorter piston of a stroker engine. I would suggest you ask a few other builders.

Mike, yes, it was a chassis dyno. You know the whole story on that one. I skipped out from my office to go see it on the rollers.
 
moper said:
To be honest, I'm not that comforatble telling you it's ok. It might be depending on your block's fill level. The max side force should be about 1" down in the piston's travel from what I know. About 40° past TDC. That's where the leverage isnt really good on the crank and the cylinder pressure is becoming greatest. So if the fill is 1/2, it may be "good enough" with a tall piston, but not good enough for a shorter piston of a stroker engine. I would suggest you ask a few other builders.

Mike, yes, it was a chassis dyno. You know the whole story on that one. I skipped out from my office to go see it on the rollers.
Click to expand...

ok will ask the guy who will do the machinework and i do understand that you dont feel comfortable saying its ok:)

there is about 1 7/8" from the top of the fill to the top of the block so i would gues that its about a ½fill just by looking at it..
thanks alot for your knowledge :)
 
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