360/904
- Thread starter srg610
- Start date
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mopar_nocar
Well-Known Member
running and driving and already set up for a car....$200 sounds like a deal.
sb
sb
stroker mike
Well-Known Member
I just bought a 360 never been rebuilt short block, 596 heads complete, new enough to have blue paint on the valve springs, chrome oil pan, relocated oil filter kit, two iron intakes (one w/egr, one w/out), alternator, valve covers, b&m flexplate,water pump, power steering pump, fan, and a radiator for $260.00. I think I got a fair deal. I think you have a good deal there, too, especially since you get the tranny, too, and probably the torque converter, I would do it, that's for sure.
Eric_S68
Well-Known Member
$200 sounds good ! Good Block , Good tranny , If it's all rebuildable you got a deal, if you dont want it, PM me if it's close to Florida.
Thanks for the info guys. Now, I'm pretty sure I'm going to get it. Have to look at it first, but he said it was complete except for alternator. I just got my engine stand and hoist put together, so it's time for a couple of beers! I'll be pulling the slant six and 904 out of the Duster as soon as I get a chance, so that will be available if you know of anyone who would want it. I'm just below Portland, OR. Thanks again for your input fellas, it's much appreciated!
monoptn
Mopar Aficianado
I just bought a 360 and 904 out of a 76 Cordoba at a junkyard. It had been in the yard for 1 month. I got all the brackets and bolt ons (alt, compressor, intake, carb, valve covers, pulleys, etc) for $200. The power steering pump and brackets were missing. This was an abandoned car that came in on the hook, so it might, or might not have been running. I'm rebuilding both motor and trans,and both are servicable. I thought it was a better than fair deal. Considering the price of brackets and pulleys alone, I couldn't go wrong with it even if the block was cracked, which it was not fortunately!
Nice set of scores there fellas. The later years in the 70's suffer from lower compresion, nothing a head milling or piston change can't handle. The only draw back in the package realy besides a lock up torque converter.
A mild cam and headers will get a Duster moving well.
A mild cam and headers will get a Duster moving well.
I scored the motor/trans today. Got it home and up on the hoist, took off a bunch of the old stuff I won't be using. Girlfriend saw me elbow deep in degreasing, and I had to laugh...told her this is the dirty part. I'll see if I can get some pics and set up a post to show you all my progress. I still have the Duster on my car trailer, I'll get some pics of her too, before and after.
Hey Rumble, if I bore the block .30 over, how much head work would you suggest? I'm sure I have some good machinists over here as there's an NHRA event drag strip about two miles away, but I'd like to be able to go in and at least appear to know what I'm talking about....lol
Thanks Guys
Hey Rumble, if I bore the block .30 over, how much head work would you suggest? I'm sure I have some good machinists over here as there's an NHRA event drag strip about two miles away, but I'd like to be able to go in and at least appear to know what I'm talking about....lol
Thanks Guys
moper
Well-Known Member
To be honest, proximity to a track is no indicator of quality. I wouold suggest you ask some local guys who they have had good results from. Also, if you go in and "sound like you know what you're talking about" you are looking to make a very irritated machinist....lol. Go buy a copy of any "how to build mopar engines" books. They may not have every answer, but they sure can explain a lot. If you know very little, learing is the first step. It sure saves money later...
srg610; What Moper said. Ask the faster/long time running MoPar guys, if not all of them who they use. Also, the amount of head porting is not dependent on overbore, but more on what cam you have or will have and goal intended. It is possible to run 12's with a stock head and minor prep work without bowl porting.
Without upsetting a machinest while looking for a abit of work to be done, I would (I have) walked in and simply said, I would like these heads preped for light track use. He'll ask you how much lift your cam has. This puts him in the area needed for the amount of work.
...For a nice street preped engine, under .500 lift, I have had my heads done like this in the past;
Back cut valves. (Stainless when I had the money. LOL)
Multi angle valve job on the seats
Gasket match the ports
Shorten valve guides and better seals. This may be mandotory with some cams/spring combos. Often, Comp Cams will need the spring area worked on for there springs to be installed.
I ask for the head surface to be trued with multi cuts of the head and as little as possible to be taken off to meet that. Equalize the head chambers cc's.
I'll describe this work and listen to his suggestions on top of it all. Then ethier agree or just say no, this work is good enuff for the idea/level of use.
Sometimes they suggest larger valves or bowl work on top of it.
Without upsetting a machinest while looking for a abit of work to be done, I would (I have) walked in and simply said, I would like these heads preped for light track use. He'll ask you how much lift your cam has. This puts him in the area needed for the amount of work.
...For a nice street preped engine, under .500 lift, I have had my heads done like this in the past;
Back cut valves. (Stainless when I had the money. LOL)
Multi angle valve job on the seats
Gasket match the ports
Shorten valve guides and better seals. This may be mandotory with some cams/spring combos. Often, Comp Cams will need the spring area worked on for there springs to be installed.
I ask for the head surface to be trued with multi cuts of the head and as little as possible to be taken off to meet that. Equalize the head chambers cc's.
I'll describe this work and listen to his suggestions on top of it all. Then ethier agree or just say no, this work is good enuff for the idea/level of use.
Sometimes they suggest larger valves or bowl work on top of it.
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