360 Magnum to A833 trans

[Michael Nelson]

Hey I'm looking to magnum swap my 74 dart sport. Getting a lot of confusing info about this swap.
Looking to confirm info and or be corrected.

I am using a a833 and bell housing from a 72 demon.

I plan on ordering a 360 magnum crate engine I talked with builders and they said it's a stock balance.

I keep seeing the science friction 10.5" 130 tooth from American powertrain. This sounds correct for my application. Being the balance for a stock 360 magnum.

I have a nearly new clutch from my la 360 engine. Can I still use that for this application?

I've seen people put in a pilot bearing. Or cut off part of the output shaft. I'm assuming the bearing is the way to go.

Is there anything else that is missing or id need to know?

 

[junkyardhero]

Hey I'm looking to magnum swap my 74 dart sport. Getting a lot of confusing info about this swap.
Looking to confirm info and or be corrected.

I am using a a833 and bell housing from a 72 demon.

I plan on ordering a 360 magnum crate engine I talked with builders and they said it's a stock balance.

I keep seeing the science friction 10.5" 130 tooth from American powertrain. This sounds correct for my application. Being the balance for a stock 360 magnum.

I have a nearly new clutch from my la 360 engine. Can I still use that for this application?

I've seen people put in a pilot bearing. Or cut off part of the output shaft. I'm assuming the bearing is the way to go.

Is there anything else that is missing or id need to know?

#1 don't cut the input shaft. run the bearing-- the crank should be machined for it. if not the stock oillite bushing is fine.

make sure that the crank is machined (drilled) deep enough for the input shaft.

the flywheel from american powertrain will work and your clutch/pressure plate should bolt right up.

my one quibble is that in the listing it says "SFI quality" and not specifically "SFI certified". while i don't know if SFI cert matters to you or not for this application, i sure as **** wouldn't be paying SFI prices for something that wasn't actually SFI cert.

 

[Professor Fate]

The American Powertrain flywheel is the way to go. They have a version that is compatible with the crank sensor in case you want to run the factory EFI, too- you just have to call to order it.
Your clutch and pressure plate will fit just fine.
And I agree with JYH- don't cut the input. People do it, but people do a lot of things I wouldn't recommend.

I've seen people put in a pilot bearing. Or cut off part of the output shaft. I'm assuming the bearing is the way to go.

OMG, this is NOT an either/or proposition- you MUST run a bearing or bushing no matter whether you cut the input or not!
The deciding factor is whether the crank flange is fully machined for the pilot bushing/bearing or not.
The rebuilder should be able to tell you. If he can't, run away.
If it is fully machined, then you can run either the bushing or bearing. If it is not, then you're left with running the bearing, which fits in the convertor pocket. BUT you still need to confirm that the recess is deep enough for the trans. input shaft. If it needs to be deeper, you can drill it out by hand since you'll be using the convertor pocket in the crank flange to register the bearing.

 

[sam69sat]

There's also the mcleod flywheel that is neutral balanced but you add weights for different balance applications like 5.9 magnum, 440, etc. It's a little more expensive but not much if you can coax someone to gift you a 10% off summit racing code.

McLeod Racing 464102 McLeod Steel Flywheels | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - McLeod Steel Flywheels with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Flywheels at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

McLeod Racing 564111 McLeod Flywheel Counter Balance Weight Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - McLeod Flywheel Counter Balance Weight Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Flywheel Counterweights at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Michael Nelson]

The American Powertrain flywheel is the way to go. They have a version that is compatible with the crank sensor in case you want to run the factory EFI, too- you just have to call to order it.
Your clutch and pressure plate will fit just fine.
And I agree with JYH- don't cut the input. People do it, but people do a lot of things I wouldn't recommend.

OMG, this is NOT an either/or proposition- you MUST run a bearing or bushing no matter whether you cut the input or not!
The deciding factor is whether the crank flange is fully machined for the pilot bushing/bearing or not.
The rebuilder should be able to tell you. If he can't, run away.
If it is fully machined, then you can run either the bushing or bearing. If it is not, then you're left with running the bearing, which fits in the convertor pocket. BUT you still need to confirm that the recess is deep enough for the trans. input shaft. If it needs to be deeper, you can drill it out by hand since you'll be using the convertor pocket in the crank flange to register the bearing.

Thank you for the complete story. I'm 22 and I have a lot to learn about all this stuff. But now that I have a full fledged answer I'm confident in the engine swap.

Id assume the bearing is the better then the bushing?

 

[Professor Fate]

Eith

Thank you for the complete story. I'm 22 and I have a lot to learn about all this stuff. But now that I have a full fledged answer I'm confident in the engine swap.

Id assume the bearing is the better then the bushing?

Either one will work just fine- it's just a matter of how the crank flange is finished.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I'd assume so to...... But does it matter?
Consider that the only time that the Input gear is not turning at engine-speed, is with the engine running and the clutch-pedal on the floor. If you keep your foot off the clutch at a stoplight until it's time to move, that bearing or bushing could last 20 years/125,000miles, or more.