360 or 440?

-
HemiPar

HemiPar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2006
Messages
1,671
Reaction score
63
Location
Kentucky
I am in the decission making process for my 71 Swinger build. the question i have is this. Should i go with a 360 or 440? the body is a 318 car by VIN number but it seams that some time over the life of the car it MAY have been changed at one time. the mounts on the K member look as if they have been welded on by some one not a pro. the car will be used on the street as a driver, not the track. although i want it to be quick. I have a 360 with trans out of a 85 truck. i know that i need to change a few things on the motor for it to fit and the body should take it easy. I also know where there is a truck that some one told me has the 440 with trans and price is $500 for the whole truck. How much would i need to change to put the 440 in the car. like i said it will be a driver so I would like to keep power steering. body has disc brakes but not power. So for a mild street car would it be worth the hassle of putting a 440? So any input would help me figure out what the hell to do. thanks guys and girls.
Jeff
 
If you do the 440;

A swap kit from Schumaucer (sp) http://www.engine-swaps.com/ is the easiest way to put the 440 in the swinger. Directions are easy to follow and do. I did a 318 - 400 swap in my Dodge Magnum, a '79 model car. It was easy.
Then you'll need a driveshaft to suite. Not a big deal, even more so if theres a shop in town.
The 8-1/4 rear will hold some decent power. As the ring gear size increases, the more power can be handled safely. Food for though when the power plan comes in.
The last thing would be T-bars. which you may want to upgrade so theres less bounce.
A consideration to think about is exhaust manifold fitment and where the exhaust dumps could be an issue or headers in which case, the coin on tti's may very well be justified.

360
The drivers motor mount only needs ethier it's proper mount or if you use the 318 mounts, washers to space out the gap due to the wider mount.
Otherwise, if the 360 cames with tranny/904 trans, same as the 318, it's a bolt in and go thing, no problem. A 727 tranny needs a shorter driveshaft.

Those are the basic pros and cons. Other than that listed, you'll save $500 by making use of what you have. (360) The 360 is better on gas.

Now, it's up to you on what engine you want under the hood when you pop it open.
Just one hint here, don't settle.
 
It will be way easier to make streetable hp out of a big block than a small block. For example, building an engine to make 1 hp per cubic in makes for a very easy to live with motor. Plenty of vacuum for accesories, good low end torque where a street engine sees most of its duty, relatively mild idle, good street manners and you shouldn't have to go with a very high stall torque converter.

So the question is, do you want 360 hp or 440 hp?

The only real downside to a big block transplant is the weight over the front end. Look for some big torsion bars like Rumblefish suggests.

Option 1: Take the 360, drop it in the truck and get it running, sell the truck and use the proceeds to build your 440.
Option 2: Take the 360, drop it in the truck and get it running, keep the truck as your daily driver and parts runner. Build the 440 for 1.25 to 1.5 hp per cubic inch and take it out on weekends for cruising or to the track and kick some import butt!
 
Before thinking of using the 440 first find out what year it is and what are the internals, Forged or Cast, you could argue that for $500 who cares. If there is a question of it's health you may also want to consider a stroked 400. There's a little more clearance than the 440 especially around the power steering box and built right that 400 will run circles around the 440. Just my 2cents. :burnout:
 
Personally I would stay with the 360. It's an easier/cheaper swap, lighter motor, better handling in the end, and you can make plenty of power with it.

But that's me....I am a small block person, and see no special gains in a big block.
 
I would go with the 360. Much easier swap. My 440 can be a real pain in the *** to work on. It drinks gas too quickly. But it sure is f'in fast!

Greg
 
Hey Greg, what other cave eats are there to doing that swap and driving it.
Is the Dusters big block hopped up?
My 400 is a thirsty paperwieght. 1978 was a terrible year for power output. Potentail is great though.
 
i TOTALLY agree with SUPERDART and 440DUSTER!!!!

build a NICE 360,stock crank/rods,10:1 TRW's,nice hyd cam around a .520 lift,a GOOD bowl and port match work on some J-heads,M-1 single plane and a 750dp and with a good tranny/converter/gear COULD run mid 12's ALL DAY LONG!!!!! :headbang:

its a NO brainer!!!! :shaking2:
 
Yeah, my 440 is a little on the mild side (at least I consider it mild). standard stroke .030 bore, 3-angle on the valves, .509 MP cam, MSD electronics, holley 750 DP. I'd say the only issue I really have with it is using fenderwell exit headers. They look cool under the hood but they hang too low and rub the tires. Rubbing the tires is the only driving issue. In a straight line it's no problem -in a tight turn or worse yet a bumpy turn and the tires hit. Unfortunately, the budget doesn't allow for TTI headers right now.

Greg
 
Thanks guys for all the input. I think i will just stick with the 360 and build it up. It is still a few months away but just getting all the planning done and gathering the parts now.
 
I like the small block and a 440. That is why I am building a 340 resto block into a 440.
 
Two questions 440 Duster:

1. What does it run in the quarter? Does it go sideways at 30 when you stab it?

2. Is your mileage out of single digits?

I'm asking, because I am contemplating doing a 440 in my old Duster.

Thanks, ROB
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top