360 Rod Strength

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Brambles

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Would it be worth the cost savings to use my 1973 360 4bbl rods in a 408 stroker build for less than 500 hp motor or are the I beam rods in the kits vastly superior?

Thanks
 
I think that all you would have to do here in order to make up your mind is to look at the "complete" costs to recon your rods (both ends, bushings on the small end, etc.) and the cost of ARP (or the equivalent) rod bolts vs a new set of Eagle I-beams (incl. ARP bolts) and it will be pretty clear.
 
I think that all you would have to do here in order to make up your mind is to look at the "complete" costs to recon your rods (both ends, bushings on the small end, etc.) and the cost of ARP (or the equivalent) rod bolts vs a new set of Eagle I-beams (incl. ARP bolts) and it will be pretty clear.

So reading between the lines, you think the new rods are the way to go?
 
Rods are one of those things,I agree with the above post.I found with the price to rebuild its only a little more money to get new I- beams,but then its only a little more of a step up for H-beams.I just spend a few extra bucks and buy H-beams,its just nice to lose a bit more weight and add some stregnth.
 
The factory rods with the stroke will make the rods hit the bottom of the cylinder. So you would have to clearance the block for the rods.
 
When I built my 360 it was about $40 cheaper to go with the Eagle SIR I-beam rod than it was to have the machine shop recondition the stock rods and install high strength bolts.

Besides the $40 savings you get a bushed small end for floating pins, and a set of rods that is much much more closely balanced rod to rod than a factory rod. The SIR rod is rated for up to 500 HP too.
 
No, with the right type bolts, you do not have to clearance the block with I-beams. H-beams are another story.

This is something I've been wondering about. How much clearancing is necessary with the H-beam rods? I've got the book on building stroked Mopars & it doesn't say anything about it.
 
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