360 short block suppliers??

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carcrazyguy

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Anyone bought one of the 360 short blocks that's advertised in the Mopar mags? Which company did you get yours (or would you buy from)?

My idea is to go with a 9.5:1 pre-magnum short block, Edelbrock heads (right out the box), and a single plane M1. Nothing fancy just enough to rotate the tires.
Thanks in advance!!
 
The short block A engine from MP is a decent start. Any local dealer can get them too. The friehgt from further away can add a bit to the price too. Personally, I dont run Edelbrocks out of the box, but that's a matter of opinion. In fact, a complete crate engine might be easier and less $$ overall if you're just looking for a new 360 to "turn the tires". Of course, you dont ge tthe "ooos" and "AAhhhhs" when people look at std iron heads.
 
I got a create short block years back. The higher compresion unit had poor machining work done to it. The pistons on the passenger side were a nice zero deck. The drivers side had a positive deck height that started @ .010 (positive) @ #1 cyl and got larger on down to the #7 cyl. Which measured .012 positive. Now try and bolt on a set of Edelbrock heads to that.
(LOL Har har har har)
I had to go out and get Fel-Pro's .054 thick gasket. Being that the block was ill decked, sealing the deal up was very impossible.
Turn wheels it did. :sad2:

You are better off saving up $1500 and get it done right.

Click this below.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=293
 
I have the valve job corrected. That means, they are taken apart, everything washed (amazing what stays in them from Edelbrock), the guides measured and honed if needed (usually at least 1 in each head..), the springs are checked for tension (you dont buy springs based on lift..it's installed height, coil bind, and tension you really need to concern yourself with. Because they say "up to .600 lift" doesnt mean much when the typical fast rate cams today use higher seat and open pressure than the Edelbrock furnished ones can deliver), the seats are checked for roundness(at least 2-3 per head are out, some WAY out), touched up on the Serdi with a 5 angle cutter, and it all goes back together. The cost is $200 excluding new springs and retainers if needed. That's the result of having fresh engines torn down for various reasons and finding a sticking valve, or burn marks accross the seats from them not sealing, and finding aluminum shavings inside ports stuck in the assembly lube. If it's any consolation, all heads from the aftermarket have these issues OOTB. Brodix, Edelbrock, TFS, Dart, Indy, you name it. And not just Mopars. When they say "Ready to bolt on" they mean it will physically attach to the block, and it will run when you turn the key. It doesnt mean they are done well, or even that they are "right" for your application. Details like these are what makes good engines great. Some buyers notice things, a few have serious problems..I want to make sure that the customer is happy. I've had too many friends have work done at various shops (some big name ones too)and be disappointed for any number of reasons. Oh, and yes, I've had my share of human errors too..Nobody's perfect...lol. But if I'm going to spend $1300 of mine or more importantly someone elses' money, I'll spend the $200 to get every ounce of performance I can out of them.
 
Moper, do you back cut your valves? That really works for me and I can see a 'BIG' difference on the flow bench up to about .350 lift. Just thought I would ask. I never see anyone talking about this easy cheap mod and it does work. Terry.
 
Olay is there a way to order a 360 crate motor that is "ready". I have seen a lot of posts about having to have these motors torn down and inspected and re-assembled before putting them in. Well crap why buy a complete "new not remanufactured" engine and have to spend even more money to rebuild it????

Next question....IF we go with a crate motor. What all will we need to swap it in place of a 318 with a 727?? Will we need any other parts, mounts or anything else? Alt brackets, pulleys, motor mounts all the same???

THANKS
 
Terry- In factory heads I use stainless valves that are already back cut. I know stock type valves will respond very well at low lift with a 30*back cut on them, especially using the throat cut as part of the 5 angle, but for the most part, I dont run stock type valves, and I always replace used valves. The problems are more with the guide and seat work, rather than the valves they use, and I dont usually have the valves touched other than cleaning.

CarCrazy, The vast majority or problems I've heard of were in big blocks, and Hemis. Maybe it's the rule of numbers. Every MP Hemi I've known about firsthand (friends buying them) have had issues. Some really major. I dont have anyone I personally know that has bought a big block. The vast majority of the 360 crates I know have been fine. I'd buy an MP crate "LA" long before I bought any AutoZone or similar mass rebuilders' product. My first choice is always to have a core redone myself tho. You should need a special flex plate. All other stuff should attach the same.
 
Moper, I've never seen stainless valves come back cut. They don't know where you are going to put the 'seat' on the valves. Where it will contact the actual seat. I ALWAYS back any valve that comes thru my shop, Stock or stainless. A good 3/5 angle valve seat job and back cut valves and that will make a good piece. Terry.
 
Terry, maybe I'm not calling it the same thing..Heres a couple of pics. The first is a Milodon performance valve. There is no "edge" above the 45* angle seat they machine onto the valve head. I call this a "factory" back cut valve. The ones I use are identical (from what I can see) to the Mancini Racing name brand, the pics are on their website too. An offshore manufactured Stainless performance valve, swirl polished head, and single 45* cut seat angle, single groove lock. The Milodons are just too much $$ for my needs right now.


The second is a Sealed Power stock 305 Chevy valve off the Summit website. You can see the 45* seat angle is wider (mider margin)and the back of the head is rough "as cast" finish, leaving that "lip" around the circumference of the top of the seat. A back cut to me, has always meant removing any remnance of that lip. I've never brought it right to the edge of the seat tho. Once the valves are "tapped in" (they dont need lapping when the Serdi does it) and the real seat margin can be seen. You then bring the 30* cut out to that margine? I havent, but I'm willing to try...lol.

good valve.jpg


stockvalve.jpg
 
Moper, yes I bring the 30 degree on down to the top of the 45 angle. Right to the edge of it. Really picks up the low lift flow and gets the air moving in the port sooner in the lift cycle. I remember the early Poncho heads had 30 degree seats and showed great low lift numbers but this hurt higher lift flow a little, flow numbers over .500 or so. I do this mosty on street/strip engines with lifts in the .500/.550 range. Hemi heads like 37 degrees, some will like 35-36 better depending on combo and volume. The bike heads I do I usually put 37 degrees on the valves (hemi 4 valve) and they show good flow improvement with that. Be a good help to those who are putting together a street or torque motor and it is a cheap/easy mod. No down side to those with less than .500 lift cams. Full on race motors probably won't need it. Anyway, Moper..give it a try and let us know what you think..good topic. Thanks, Terry.
 
Thanks Terry, I will..just dont rush me...lol. I think there will be a few new posts when I get some time, and dig out the head castings I want to test. I know the lower the angle of the seat the better the transition from on the seat to low lift flow, and the more it's lowered, the more the transition from mid range to high lift is negatively affected. The back cut helps the low lift, without effecting the mid or high negatively. I've just never "gone the full distance" bringing it to the seat margin. Sigh..more to play with...lol. The more I learn , the more I know I dont know yet...lol.
 
moper said:
Thanks Terry, I will..just dont rush me...lol. I think there will be a few new posts when I get some time, and dig out the head castings I want to test. I know the lower the angle of the seat the better the transition from on the seat to low lift flow, and the more it's lowered, the more the transition from mid range to high lift is negatively affected. The back cut helps the low lift, without effecting the mid or high negatively. I've just never "gone the full distance" bringing it to the seat margin. Sigh..more to play with...lol. The more I learn , the more I know I dont know yet...lol.
Well said Moper....couldn't have said it better my friend. LOL. Terry.
 
Well it looks like I am going to have to fiqure out something else besides a 360 crate motor. I spent my "motor" money on another project. But I just could not pass it up. Now I am going to be one of those dreaded "Gonna restore it somday" guys.

73CudaRearDriversSide.jpg
 
I'll build you a 360 to trade for that...

Nice looking project. In CT, that car wouldnt have any 1/4s left on it, and most of the floors and cowl wold be gone...
 
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