383 ignition, need expert please.

[aduc73]

Working on my 383 engine, its been sitting for a while. Crank the engine, no sparking.

Engine out of car, negative (-) of coil connect to distributor lead; positive (+) of coil connect to positive terminal of battery; ballast resistor connect to (+) of coil, other end to to ground.

Negative of battery wired direct to engine. Crank the engine, no spark. What did I miss?

 

[greg r]

ballast resistor connect to (+) of coil, other end to to ground.

For starters, remove the resistor before you fry it. It is to go in the B+ feed to the coil. But for now just remove it.

What triggers the primary circuit? Points or electronic?

 

[aduc73]

For starters, remove the resistor before you fry it. It is to go in the B+ feed to the coil. But for now just remove it.

What triggers the primary circuit? Points or electronic?

The engine is all stock, single point distributor. Coil and ballast resistor look like this:

I wired the ignition system somewhat like this, except I dont have solenoid and switch, I wire + of coil direct to + of battery and other end of resistor go to ground

 

[greg r]

If that metal can looking deal above the coil is what you're calling the resistor, it's actually a condenser(capacitor), just unhook it for now.

As there's no switch yet, do not leave the coil energized to the battery for more than 1/2 a minute or so.

When it's hooked up ready to fire except the B+, put a test light on the coil's - post and the light's other end to ground. Connect power(B+ feed) and rotate the engine. The light should go on and off with the point action. Open points, the light lights; closed points the light goes out.

If the light functions on & off with distributor cam rotation, then the primary circuit is okay and time to check the secondary side. If it doesn't, then you have a point or coil problem.

 

[aduc73]

If that metal can looking deal above the coil is what you're calling the resistor, it's actually a condenser(capacitor), just unhook it for now.

As there's no switch yet, do not leave the coil energized to the battery for more than 1/2 a minute or so.

When it's hooked up ready to fire except the B+, put a test light on the coil's - post and the light's other end to ground. Connect power(B+ feed) and rotate the engine. The light should go on and off with the point action. Open points, the light lights; closed points the light goes out.

If the light functions on & off with distributor cam rotation, then the primary circuit is okay and time to check the secondary side. If it doesn't, then you have a point or coil problem.

Yes, I thought that capacitor is ballast resistor. So what is the capacitor for? Does it play any part of ignition system?

Can you please explain why do not leave the coil energized to battery for more than 1/2 min?

And do I need ballast resistor in order to run the engine? (Engine out of car right now, I want test run)

Thanks a lot!

 

[greg r]

The capacitor is for RFI suppression, cuts the noise out of the radio.

If you leave the power applied to the coil, and the points are closed, you can fry the points. You can also cook an electronic trigger module unless it has a feature to shut itself off such as in a Pertronix II.

No, you do not need a ballast resistor to run the engine for short periods of time. They are for reduced current feed to the coil so the points and coil don't get too hot. Many cars will have an ignition feed wire from the key switch with the resistance in the wire instead of a resistor. Your Flamethrower coil will also have enough primary resistance in it that you shouldn't need extra resistance.