383 or 400 ?

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jtkaaa07

BossMan
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I am seriously considering putting a big block in my dart, I know people will say don't do it, and it's not worth the work etc, but I had a 383 car a long time ago, and just want opinions on if I should go 383 or 400 if I do it . This will be a street car no drag racing, I am kind of leaning towards a 383 since I just picked one up on the cheap, but I also have a 400 available what do you guy's think would be the better option? If I go 383 it will not be stroked, 400 would prolly have to be to get any power out of it. Again, just looking for opinions on which is the better option .
 
Buy both, put 383 in right away, stuff the 400 in the corner for future stroker. Once you get a bb in your car you will want to go bigger eventually, trust me.
 
Hell you can find good running 383s for $100 or less in my area, nobody wants em. If the one he knows about needs a rebuild, keep looking.
 
The one I got was out of a 65 fury, and it runs for $100 , I would do the heads, a cam, and regasket the whole motor. I remember the 383 as a screamer, and the low deck's fit really nice in an A body! A guy I know has a built 383 in his 68 dart , he has HP exhaust manifolds on it, he said it dropped right in, fit like a glove!
 
I have a couple 360's too, but there is nothing cooler then a BB in a A body in my opinion, just looks cool when you open the hood!
 
The 383 would be fun. Properly built with smart parts choices and everyone will think it's a stroker.
 
I have a '67 383 that I'll use as the mule and starter engine for my current project. Paid $200 because it had 10k on a re-ring/bearing/valve job and ran strong in my friends Coronet. With a cam and some bolt-ons it should run decent enough to have some fun while the 400 stroker is being pieced together.
 
Don't underestimate the 400. The severe "oversquare" bore makes it pretty dang torque-y.

I had a stock 77 400-2 that ran almost as good as a built 70 383-4 HP!

...and it'll be pump gas friendly, out of the box.
 
...and IIRC, there are some relatively new 10:1-ish off the shelf pistons for a stock bore 400, if rebuilding is in your plans.
 
The 400 probly has low compression which can be fixed by boring slightly to take 440 pistons but has the hardened seats. Either one will fly!
 
Yeah, I wasn't planning on any major rebuild yet, if I did I would probably go with the 400 , there are tons of stroker kits out there for the 400. If I go with the 383 will a good set of RB heads work on it, and if so what is the best choice for a stock style head? I don't know much about big block stuff so enlighten me!
 
Don't underestimate the 400. The severe "oversquare" bore makes it pretty dang torque-y.

I had a stock 77 400-2 that ran almost as good as a built 70 383-4 HP!

...and it'll be pump gas friendly, out of the box.

stock 400 ? I'd like to see that, all Mopar motors were turds after 72
the 383 is no slouch
 
The 400 probly has low compression which can be fixed by boring slightly to take 440 pistons but has the hardened seats. Either one will fly!

How are you gonna bore a 400 to take 440 pistons? Explain please. I am all ears.
 
All the specs are on my thread on big block dart.

Well if they say to bore a 400 to a 440 bore then your "specs" are wrong. The 400 bore is 4.342. The 440 bore is 4.320. You cannot bore a bigger hole to a smaller one.
 
Well if they say to bore a 400 to a 440 bore then your "specs" are wrong. The 400 bore is 4.342. The 440 bore is 4.320. You cannot bore a bigger hole to a smaller one.

lol but some you can
 
Yeah, I wasn't planning on any major rebuild yet, if I did I would probably go with the 400 , there are tons of stroker kits out there for the 400. If I go with the 383 will a good set of RB heads work on it, and if so what is the best choice for a stock style head? I don't know much about big block stuff so enlighten me!

b wedge 383/400 use the same heads as rb 440
 
Great article on building a 400 into a 451 - and why:

Mopar 451. The motor that SHOULD be...

The 451 is arguably the best BB Mopar engine combination available. The 451, which is made by dropping a 440 crank into a 400 block, has almost perfect design parameters.

Deck Height: The 400 block, with a deck height of 9.980 is perfect for a 3.75 stroke since a 1.80 rod ratio yields a nice light compression height of 1.355. The 440 block is really too tall for a motor of less than 500 cubic inches since its deck height of 10.72 requires a piston which has a compression height of 2.077 to make a zero deck. This means that 451 has a typical piston weight of around 550 grams instead of 800+ for the 440. BTW, the BBC has a deck height of 9.80 for the regular block and 10.2 for the "tall block". That means that the 440 is over 0.50 taller than the special Chevy tall block. The 400 block is right in between the two BBC's. The lower deck height of the 400 means less block weight. It also means the engine fits into tight engine compartments easier. It also means that the pushrods are shorter which in turn makes them lighter and more rigid. A complete 451 can weigh as much as 40 pounds less than a similiar 440 due to these differences.

R/S ratio: Okay the debate still rages but for all practical purposes, longer rods are better since they reduce side loading on the cylinder walls. A ratio of around 1.80 seems to be a decent compromise between rod length, strength, weight, etc. The 454 BBC has a stock ratio of 1.53:1 and those motors run okay. 1.80:1 is better but I'm not sure that 2:1 is worth paying extra for. The 451 allows for a 1.80:1 ratio with stock length 440 rods and it still leaves just enough room for a nice, lightweight, and strong piston.

B/S ratio: Bigger bore to stroke ratios tend to be good up to a point since they reduce the valve shrouding (too big on the bores and the combustion process falters). The 400 block has a std bore of 4.340 so it has the largest stock bore size. The 440 bore is 4.320 at std so that means it cannot be bored as large as a 400. A bore of 4.375 is a very nice bore size since rings are readily available. That is a 0.035 over 400 but it would be a 0.055 over 440. Less overbore means more strength and the possibility of additonal overbores. 4.375/3.75 is 1.17 which is pretty good. Better than the 1.06 of a 454 BBC but not as nice as the 1.33 of a 302.

Rotating weight: As mentioned above, the lower deck height allows for a more compact piston which in turn reduces the piston weight significantly. The longer 440 rod and longer stroke of the 440 crank also means that a 451 has lighter pistons than a stock 400. The typical piston/pin/rod assembly in a 400 weighs 1930 grams. The same assembly for a 451 using stock 440 rods weighs 1630 grams. (This can be made even lighter by using 0.990 pins) The reduction of 300 grams per cylinder means a weight reduction of 2400 grams, or 5.3 pounds from the assembly. An additional amount must be taken off of the crank counterweights to balance the motor. This amount is 1060 grams or 2.33 pounds for the above configuration. That means that the 451 rotating assembly is 7.6 pounds lighter than a 400. Pretty dramatic results when you mash on the loud petal from that kind of weight reduction. This is using fairly common parts. The 451 accomodates itself to more exotic parts due to the piston dimensions and rod lengths. That means you can save even more weight easier on a 451 than on a 400 or 440.

Easy to build: The parts are easy to come by since 400 blocks are quite common (and not very well liked so they tend to be cheap), 440 cranks are easy to find in the aftermarket and not too bad swap meet stuff. Stock 440 rods work but Manley, C&A, Eagle, Crower, etc make rods also if you want/need high strength stuff. Several manufacturers produce off the shelf pistons to work with this combo so that is easy. The 440 crank needs to be turned down to the 383/400 main size and the counterweights need to be turned down to a diameter of 7.250 but that is easy crank shop stuff. The crank can have a full radii put on it so it actually turns out quite strong in the process. It is possible to bore out the mains on a 400 block to accept the stock 440 crank but that seems the hard way to go. You have to machine in the tabs to hold the bearings and then you are usually stuck with an undersize crank. Besides, you still have to send the crank to the machine shop to reduce the counterweights. And to argue from a technical standpoint, bigger bearings cost horsepower due to increased friction.

Other close relations: The rod journals on the 440 crank can be turned down to BBC size of 2.200. This allows the stroke to increased or decreased by offset grinding. A max stroke of 3.90 is possible this way and that yields a 470 cubic inch motor. Manley is selling rods that make this combination work and it makes a really nice motor. The piston is even lighter since it is 0.075 shorter and so the rotating assembly weight drops again. Also, the piston pin is changed to a 0.990 pin in this combination and that drops the weight by another 30 or 40 grams per cylinder. The smaller bearing has less frictional loss and it allows for a physically smaller rod which means more camshaft clearance and more block clearance. (see how it all works out kind of cool?) This is a bit more money to build but it is still very reasonable. The Manley rods are $750 and the offset grinding is usually about $100 or so.

So there are my reasons for calling it the best of the Mopar BB's. Lighter, stiffer, smaller for not much extra money. Sounds like a winner to me.
 
b wedge 383/400 use the same heads as rb 440


That's what I was thinking, like I mentioned, I don't know much about BB stuff. Any heads better then others? My father in law has a bunch of 440 stuff up in the barn, trying to find out what head numbers to look for up there. He has a 70 440-6 motor out of his charger R/T he crashed, he wouldn't let me touch that one Haha !
 
Go with the block that is in the best shape. Low comp 400s can run, but you have to be careful on cam choice.
 
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