Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
so im trying to install the linkages on my 69 dart. and i dont which way the bushings go on the shifter mechanism. and also want to know what side do the washers go on the lever side
4 speed linkage hardware help
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Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
are the clips positioned correctly? i never done this
Fuzzy photos but the clips go flat. I think my washers are on the inside.
Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
thanks buddy
The holes in your levers must have been opened up, the stock Mystery shifter mechanism did not have bushings. Probably put the washers on the clip side.
Your shifter may have at sometime had the Competition Plus shifter rods used, which used the bushings, nylon back then, and available in metal later on.
Your shifter may have at sometime had the Competition Plus shifter rods used, which used the bushings, nylon back then, and available in metal later on.
Your original Hurst Competition Plus shifter has been modified for the aftermarket bushings. Here is how the were to be installed.
Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
i bought everything feom brewers performance. levers on trans didn't need bushings. fit right in. i ended up using the washers on the clip side.
Bushings/Washers go opposite of the clip side. It will probably work either way.
'69 Dart never had a Competition Plus shifter from the factory, Hurst Mystery shifter. Bought my '69 340 Swinger new, that's what was in it.
We can't see in his picture which one he has, doesn't really matter I guess, that wasn't his question.
We can't see in his picture which one he has, doesn't really matter I guess, that wasn't his question.
Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
Never seen a mystery shifter in any MOPAR A Body. The 64 and 65 Hurst shifters say Hurst Competition Plus, the 68 up say Hurst. Mystery shifter was a generic shifter. Did yours say "Mystery"? I have quite a few OEM and Aftermarket A Body Hurst shifters, none are "Mystery" shifters.
There's one in my '69 Dart right now. It's identical to the Hurst Mystery shifter that Hurst offered in aftermarket, back then, right below the Competition Plus shifter . I worked at a Dodge Dealership '69-71. Never saw a Competition Plus shifter in an A-body, '69-'71, never. The Plus has shift stops, the Mystery does not. The Mystery shifter is a bayonet, the Plus has two bolts holding the lever in. The shifter in my current '69 Dart is identical to the one that was in my '69 Dart then, no, it does not say Mystery on it, it says Hurst.
Call Dan Brewer and ask .
Call Dan Brewer and ask .
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Cruze 418- what do you mean by a bayonet? I'm familiar with the Plus and 2 bolt holes, but I'm trying to figure out what I have in my 70 Duster (built in Oct. '69). It's an H code numbers matching car so I'm guessing it's the stock shifter the car came with. There are no bolts connecting the shifter, but it seems to be sitting in a tubular rectangle piece. It may be a Mystery shifter but I don't know what one looks like. It does say Hurst on it. Thanks for any help in advance.
Not sure why you call it a Mystery shifter then. OEM 68-71 were Hurst shifters bayonet style that the handle slips and locks into the rectangular socket. All my original 64-65 A body shifters say Hurst Competition Plus. No stop bolts. I have had probably 10 of them over the years. Aftermarket A Body Competition Plus shifters have a welded handle with stop bolts and the shift arms have larger holes for bushings and slightly different shift rods and use the earlier Hurst mounting plate. If you want to rebuild your OEM Hurst shifter use Competition Plus parts. They all work. Anyone curious can go to the Brewers Performance website and click on the "before you order" tab to get an ID aid for 4 speeds and shifters.
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Thanks for the information. It sound like I have the bayonet style set up.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Your bushing is correctly installed in your picture. The thin washer goes under the clip. Use a small amount of synthetic disc brake grease on both the inside and outside of the bushing, on the end of the shift rod that slides into the bushing and on the contact side of the thin washer. The clip in the picture needs to be slid all the way into the pin hole. It looks like there is sufficient clearance in the picture.
If the shaft on the end of your shift rod is not long enough for the bushing and washer to together with minimal play, you may have the wrong shift rod end for the bushing/thin washer set-up. It would likely be for the non-competition plus/factory shift rod. You will know because the clip won't snap into the hole with both the bushing and washer assembled on the end of the shift rod. I use the thin washers under the clips on the opposite side of the **** rod ends too.
Use eye protection when snapping the clips into the hole. They can go flying. Also, the aftermarket shift rods from Brewer are much stronger/stiffer than the factory pieces. Make sure to use the correct size pin inserted into the shifter to adjust the shift rod lengths.
If the shaft on the end of your shift rod is not long enough for the bushing and washer to together with minimal play, you may have the wrong shift rod end for the bushing/thin washer set-up. It would likely be for the non-competition plus/factory shift rod. You will know because the clip won't snap into the hole with both the bushing and washer assembled on the end of the shift rod. I use the thin washers under the clips on the opposite side of the **** rod ends too.
Use eye protection when snapping the clips into the hole. They can go flying. Also, the aftermarket shift rods from Brewer are much stronger/stiffer than the factory pieces. Make sure to use the correct size pin inserted into the shifter to adjust the shift rod lengths.
What stick shift are you running with your set up? A picture of that would be helpful too. I'm having clearance trouble with the shifter in 2nd and 4th gear. I have bucket seats and the space between the shifter ball and the steering wheel is 4" at most (in 4th, less in 2nd). My knee gets blocked off by that small gap when I raise my foot off the gas and try to get it on the brake (I'm 6'3" with long legs). Big concern for that causing an accident. Any thoughts?
I do have a bench seat. I am 5' 8", my knee or the steering wheel don't get in the way. My first thought was someone has altered the shifter stick, but your lever shows no sign of being heated. I have the coloum and frt seat out right now, but the next time I go out to the shop, I will pull my boot up and take a picture. Are your mtr mounts and trans mount good? Everything look in place? Centered? Original trans? Mount plate tight and correct? Some of this is hard to do over the phone. Some people have put a b-body trans in and adapted the shifter, a picture of the tailshaft and shifter mech area would clear that up. Classic Industries or Year One make seat extender brackets that move your seat back a little if that would help.
Everything is original as I've been told. Mounts are in good shape too. One of my first thoughts was that the stick shift was swapped out for another??? I've given the seat extensions so thought, but would rather do that as a last resort. I don't recall having this problem with my first 70 Duster, but it was a bench seat too.
Something does not sound right. Handle? Mounting plate? I had a 71 340 Duster 4 speed and I don't remember the ball being anywhere near the steering wheel. The previous owner had a T handle.
Gus Loza
Well-Known Member
thanks for the info bud. i already put it together. but i didnt grease anything. hope it'll be okay
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