4 speed linkage woes.

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68barracuda

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Well I have 2 different Z Bar Photos.
One is a remake that came with my Trans and does not look quite the same as the supposed original.
The arm is longer that goes to the shift fork on the one that is suppose to be stock. and the clocking is also different.
Anyone know which is which? I have a 68 Barracuda smallblock car stock SB K Member and shcumacher stock 318,340,360 motor mounts..
I just completed the install, clutch adjustment was a problem with the newer of the 2 I was told I need .060 between the disk and flywheel the pedal 1" from the floor and .060 between the throw out bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate pedal up.
Also is it correct that the Z bar sits on a slight angel from the engine to the firewall? It seems to be perpendicular to the frame but is angled from floor to hood.
And on top of that should I extend the z bar arm 3/4" that goes to the adjustment rod and moves the shift fork to make the .060 adjustment easier by extending pedal travel?
zbar001.jpg

11111001.jpg

zbar004.jpg

zbar008.jpg
 
As I and others mentioned (on Moparts), the non rusted z-bar looks like the correct one. Length of the arms and overal length of the bar needs to be verified.

The clutch rod, last pic. is not the correct rod, no bends, just a straight piece.

The bell housing ball stud in the 1st pic is the correct one for your application, as long as you have the other correct parts, meaning stock pieces.

Was this always a Manual car or converted from Auto

If in doubt, give Wane a call at Brewers performance. He'll walk thru your dilema.
 
Yup, and you asked the same questions then also.
If you had read my post are are all answered in the original description.
I thought I mentioned I had just completed the swap.
I never asked about the shift rod ether time, it is a F Body and is the same length, Not a problem.
I'm pretty sure the rusty Z bar also F Body, just looking for confirmation. If it was it also could be used.
 
I added 1" to my Z bar to help with the adjustment.Only problem was the pressure to move the clutch in was greater but power shifting was easier.I also added a stronger throttle spring to make the gas as stiff as the clutch.
 
i am having similar issues. My Z bar is also angled up towards hood and the clutch rod is hitting the starter a bit making it impossible to adjust and my pedal is way low. How did you solve all your issues? Thanks
 
the pedal to z-bar rod is incorrect, it is for f-body. It should be this one with a slight bend on one end. http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CPR147
f-body rod is 1/2 longer then a-body rod 14 1/4 to 14 3/4

hard to tell from your pictures but looking at mine with the pedal arm at 12 o'clock, the fork rod is at about the 7 to 8 o'clock position. looks like the non rusted one appears the one needed.
 
I have it all in and it seems to work well. I used the non rusty Z bar and
I added 3/4" to the arm actuates the shift fork and that helped a lot.
Car is very fast with the new 340 I built and the 4 Speed lets me ring out the gears more thus improving the fun factor.:burnout:
 
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