4 speed noise

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afazio01

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Guys,
looking for little help. Have A833 4 speed in my 69 dart. I replaced the input bearing when installing trans because it was obviously noisy. The trans is still a little noise when I let the clutch out at idle. Is this normal for the A833?

also, anyone know will a '75 OD 4 speed trans direct fit in its place?


thanks
 
afazio01 said:
Guys,
looking for little help. Have A833 4 speed in my 69 dart. I replaced the input bearing when installing trans because it was obviously noisy. The trans is still a little noise when I let the clutch out at idle. Is this normal for the A833? also, anyone know will a '75 OD 4 speed trans direct fit in its place? thanks
Click to expand...

Hello afazio01,
Hope you and yours are well....
Did you replace the Pilot Bushing in the crankshaft when you completed the transmission repair? Did you confirm the nose of the front bearing retainer was not worn and the clutch throw out bearing is loose on the nose?
Just some things to consider.
As for the O D Transmission the bell housing id (where the trans nose housing goes into the bell) is larger on the O D transmission.
You can call Wayne @ Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
He can help you with any transmission issues and has the information on the O D trans on his web page's. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Hope this helps in some way.
Stay Safe.....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
afazio01 said:
Guys,
looking for little help. Have A833 4 speed in my 69 dart. I replaced the input bearing when installing trans because it was obviously noisy. The trans is still a little noise when I let the clutch out at idle. Is this normal for the A833?

also, anyone know will a '75 OD 4 speed trans direct fit in its place?


thanks
Click to expand...

Noisy in neutral with the clutch out?
This could be any of the other bearings including the input to output shaft rollers.
Noisy input to output shaft rollers requires the input shaft and output shaft both to be replaced along with new rollers.
Pretty much the same with the counter gear and shaft as none of those run on an inclosed replaceable bearing like the upper bearings in the case ends.

All these bearings I pointed out in red run on non repairable surfaces where you can't just change a bearing an fix it.
All these also run in neutral with the clutch out, so it could be any or all of these making your noise.

833.jpg
 
4-sp noise at idle is usually input shaft related or release bearing is not fully retracted.
 
Murray said:
4-sp noise at idle is usually input shaft related or release bearing is not fully retracted.
Click to expand...
Guys,
thats a big help, thank you. Also I did the pilot and throw out bearing too, so basically I shouldn't hear a difference in clutch in clutch out in terms of noise? and I didnt think to check my throw out adjustment but I can always hear the noise intermittent so that's the first thing I will check.

Tony
 
afazio01 said:
Guys,
thats a big help, thank you. Also I did the pilot and throw out bearing too, so basically I shouldn't hear a difference in clutch in clutch out in terms of noise? and I didnt think to check my throw out adjustment but I can always hear the noise intermittent so that's the first thing I will check.

Tony
Click to expand...

You will most likely always hear some slight noise in neutral but it should only be a slight whirring noise.
You gotta remember the input shaft, the counter gear and all the gears on the output shaft are spinning in neutral with the clutch out.
 
Is your bellhousing centered to the crankshaft? Google that and see how it is done.
 
sorry for being that guys who responds many months later. I appreciate the help everyone. I suspect its the oil. Have not had a chance to change it out to something heavier. I did adjust the throw out bearing and that was not it.
After winter I am going to try a heavier oil (since its rally only noticeable after 20 minites of driving on hot days, then eventually change out those countershaft bearings (I did change the input bearing 5 years ago because it was pitted and noisy, everything else was fine).

thanks again!
 
afazio01 said:
Is this normal for the A833?
Click to expand...
Since you haven't fixed it yet;
FYI:
with the engine running, and the trans in Neutral,and the TO bearing fully retracted off the clutch fingers, and the vehicle stopped;
the input gear is locked to the crank, and lock-stepped with the cluster gear, which is spinning the three gears on the mainshaft.
The only things not spinning are the synchronizer assemblies and the mainshaft. So the only bearing NOT spinning is the one on the rear of the mainshaft.
As to the cluster Needle-rollers; they are buried in the bottom, and very seldom make noise,unless water got in there.
As to the gears; they extremely rarely make noise; unless you cooked one while towing in a gear other than direct, or something went thru the drive teeth.
As to the needle rollers in the back of the input gear. These too seldomly make noise, unless it was assembled wrongly, or run low on oil and they got cooked.
As to oil: I run 50% Dextron ATF and 75/90 EP, and my trans runs dead quiet.
So, that just leaves the input bearing as the most likely to be noisy.
Since you said it has low mileage on it, and the noise remained after you changed it;
I would drop that bad-boy and inspect it;

Subject to inspection of the rear mount. If that mount has collapsed or torn, then the trans could be sitting on the crossmember, which will transmit any little noise and the body will amplify it.
 
afazio01 said:
also, anyone know will a '75 OD 4 speed trans direct fit in its place?
Click to expand...

Yes it will, but you will also need the BH, and the inboard Z-bar pivot.

But be advised, the ratio spread is pretty large on the od unit.
Your standard for 1969 ratios are
-- 2.66--1.92--1.40--1.00 , with splits of ~.725; compared to
3.09--------1.67------1.00--.73od for the od unit; and splits of
.54-.60-.73.. It takes a torquey engine to pull those splits.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Since you haven't fixed it yet;
FYI:
with the engine running, and the trans in Neutral,and the TO bearing fully retracted off the clutch fingers, and the vehicle stopped;
the input gear is locked to the crank, and lock-stepped with the cluster gear, which is spinning the three gears on the mainshaft.
The only things not spinning are the synchronizer assemblies and the mainshaft. So the only bearing NOT spinning is the one on the rear of the mainshaft.
As to the cluster Needle-rollers; they are buried in the bottom, and very seldom make noise,unless water got in there.
As to the gears; they extremely rarely make noise; unless you cooked one while towing in a gear other than direct, or something went thru the drive teeth.
As to the needle rollers in the back of the input gear. These too seldomly make noise, unless it was assembled wrongly, or run low on oil and they got cooked.
As to oil: I run 50% Dextron ATF and 75/90 EP, and my trans runs dead quiet.
So, that just leaves the input bearing as the most likely to be noisy.
Since you said it has low mileage on it, and the noise remained after you changed it;
I would drop that bad-boy and inspect it.
Click to expand...
Mine is a bit noisy in neutral with the clutch out. Some day I might have it rebuilt if it get's worse or I peel the drivetrain out of it for whatever reason. Otherwise in it stays. I don't drive it more than a couple thousand miles a year at the most.
 
hey guys,
For the record, its not a horrible noise. Its just obvious when I let the clutch out. I am running 80w 90 valvoline. was going to go for the valvoline 75-140 GL4?
Or go with what you guys suggested to start.
 
OP DO YOU HAVE all the boots and covers in place and HAVE YOU made absolutely certain nothing is touching/ vibrating against the body/ crossmemeber?

TrailBeast is ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. Any of the bearings he pointed out. I "lost" a 4 speed (that is a long story) "back in the day" because of a damaged ball bearing at the rear of the main case
 
Any noise at all points to something not right.
If you can't find it externally, then it has to be internal, and if you don't know what it is, or can't figure it out, then it's probably time for a second set of ears, or a tear-down.
Slamming thicker oil into it is not the answer; that just comes with it's own issues.
Normally.... they are pretty much dead quiet, even with 100% ATF.
As to whining;
Normally.... the earliest noise comes from a bearing, and normally the noisy bearing can still drive thousands of miles. But as it wears out, the gears move away from each other under load, and the gears wear in a newpattern, making their own noise. Then when you finally change the bearings..... you are left with the noisy gears.
But if the noise originates in the cluster, or more likely the cluster pin, then the cluster is automatically moving away from the input gear, and the noise is the complaint of the highly loaded teeth.
My 367 tore all the teeth off the input and cluster teeth one fine summer day; ziiing! and I was walking.
But if the rear bearing,has play in it, then this will highly load the needle rollers in the back of the input, usually frying the nose off the mainshaft.

The point is; bearings are cheap compared to a rebuilt box.
 
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