4 wheel disc brakes

[roccodart440]

Some background. This is a 69 dart. I upgraded to wilwood 4 wheel discs.

Bill @ RMS sold me a 7/8 piston aluminum wilwood master and offset mount.

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Now on to the questions at hand.

What do I need to do with the stock distribution block?

Do I need a proportioning valve?

I also have line lock.

What si the best way and simplest way to complete my system?

 

[LJ67barracuda340]

this is the email SSBC sent me when I asked about the dist block and an adjustable proportioning valve and switching from rear drum to disc later. I think this answers your ? about the simple way.

"with rear drums right now, you will need SSBC adjustable proportioning valve A0707. Install it in the line to rear brakes, and adjust as needed to avoid brake lock up. you can connect the front brakes directly to front bowl of master (farthest from firewall) and rear brakes directly to rear bowl, nothing more required except the proportioning valve, which can be readjusted when you install rear disc brakes.."

 

[68dodge]

this is the email SSBC sent me when I asked about the dist block and an adjustable proportioning valve and switching from rear drum to disc later. I think this answers your ? about the simple way.

"with rear drums right now, you will need SSBC adjustable proportioning valve A0707. Install it in the line to rear brakes, and adjust as needed to avoid brake lock up. you can connect the front brakes directly to front bowl of master (farthest from firewall) and rear brakes directly to rear bowl, nothing more required except the proportioning valve, which can be readjusted when you install rear disc brakes.."

My disc brakes are set up this way. Front disc right off the master cylinder and a linelock with a proportional valve on the rear line. Works very good.

 

[805moparkid]

since its the wildwood kits you shouldn't need the prop valve as they are setup with the correct piston diameter's to not over power the rear. Now if you worried about locking the rears up in a panic situation I would install one of these. On a drum car you need to delay and reduce pressure as they work faster and harder than a disc, but on a tuned 4 wheel system you just need to delay the spike so they don't lock up, not reduce.

http://www.dpiracingproducts.com/lock-resistant-brake-system-lbs/

 

[Darter6]

This is mostly for you linelock question.I did 4 wheel disc brakes on a 65 Belvedere with line lock. Instructions in the above posts,, Install line from MC to line lock solidnoid. From line lock to left right spliter for front brakes. Rear MC to adjustable prop valve directly to rear brake line.Now this was on a 65 so It was replacing a single master cylinder set up,no factory prop valve that used a 3 way spliter,,2 lines to the front brakes and one to the rear that was plugged off,now using the adjustable prop valve. On a 69(dual master) I believe it has a block with a brake light switch,set prop valve from the factory. I wish I had a 69 service manual to see if you need to bypass or if you can use it for the rear brakes. I'm sure some one will have that answer.

 

[805moparkid]

This is mostly for you linelock question.I did 4 wheel disc brakes on a 65 Belvedere with line lock. Instructions in the above posts,, Install line from MC to line lock solidnoid. From line lock to left right spliter for front brakes. Rear MC to adjustable prop valve directly to rear brake line.Now this was on a 65 so It was replacing a single master cylinder set up,no factory prop valve that used a 3 way spliter,,2 lines to the front brakes and one to the rear that was plugged off,now using the adjustable prop valve. On a 69(dual master) I believe it has a block with a brake light switch,set prop valve from the factory. I wish I had a 69 service manual to see if you need to bypass or if you can use it for the rear brakes. I'm sure some one will have that answer.

see ive always seen them called prop valves but they are really safety valves, and sometimes a metering valve.

The safety valve is just the plunger that will block a circuit if you lose pressure (i.e. buster brake line)

The metering valve keeps the rear brakes from locking up from a pressure spike

Where are a prop block creates a restriction so you get less goods "throughout the curve" so to speak. So yes under hard braking the rears wont lock up (prop valve), but the rest of the time they don't have enough. This is where the valve I posted comes in, it allows full fluid pressure except for the spike of a panic stop that would cause lock up.

if anyone has the info on exactly what years had what that would be a great help. IMO if all the valve is on the frame rail/under master is a metering valve and/or safety valve use it (new or rebuilt of course)

 

[roccodart440]

I think i'll try it first without the proportioning valve and add it if needed. As mentioned this is a complete wilwood conversion. I.e. all willwood components.

Even with a prop valve this should clean up the factory detup nicely and BE A HUGE IMPROVEMENT OVER 4 WHEEL DRUMS!! LOL

 

[Darter6]

I had the SSBC set up and really liked them on my 65. Was on the Hot Rod Power Tour and had to make a panic stop. The car that pulled up next to me was the owner of SSBC with a big smile on his face. That was 9 years ago.My brother now has the car. You will like them who ever's kit you use.