410'

-
AbodyJohn88

AbodyJohn88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2006
Messages
150
Reaction score
2
alright guys ive been doing some research and gathering parts and here is what i have so far. la360 block that is 30 over but i will be going to 40 over. untouched x heads, muscle motors street stroker kit. and everything is else is pretty much up in the air. i will be having my x heads sent out for a full porting job and 2.05 vavles. for the cam im figuring one of the hughes retro fit hydraulic rollers aroun .550 lift at 1.5. compression ratio is 9.5:1. im just wondering if .40 over is to much for the la block?? i highly doubt it is. intake will be a ported eddy victor 340 and i alreasy have tti step headers. carb will be a holley 830 4150hp. i think with the roller rockers and hogged out x heads, 4 inch arm, hughes roller cam, and the good headers i should be making around 500hp at the crank?? what are your guys thoughts on the combo? any advice/suggestions/worries? is it worth it to get the 2.05 vlves or should i stick with the 2.02? would a 750hp carb be better? or a fully ported performer rpm intake?
 
who is doing the machine work on the heads?.....

cause the head work is going to make or break your quest to make 500 hp...
 
I have a 410 in my 66 Dart.I have Eddy RPM mild P&P heads with 2.02 valves.I run a solid roller cam grind #CRS 4006B/4013B with duration @.050 252,258 with aa .631 lift.Pro Magnum rockers with custom made pushrods.I have 1 7/8 hedders with an M1 intake,850HO AED carb.Now this is mostly a race car and you will need a good converter and gears to match your cam specs.My car has ran a best of 10.81@124 with 1.50 60fts.Good Luck.
 
My 360 is is bored 60 over it is a street driveer and ocassional smoke run 391 rear crane cam 360 heads I run it regularly for 2 yrs now no problems.
 
shady dell will be doing there stage 3 porting job. they advertise 265 cfm intake at .550 lift with 2.02 valves but they say adding the 2.05 will increse cfm throughgt the whole range. as for converter and gears right now i have a 2500 stall 10 inch, but i will be going to atleast a 3000 stall. the gears i have are 3.55s and id like to keep them because the car is mainly a street car. hell id be happy with 450 horse. its been a long time in the making and id like to do everything right and do it once. ill keep you guys updated. if you have and commments good or bad feal free to express your opinion i have very thick skin : ). hoping to crack the 11.50s when all is said and done
 
I have a 410' for the last 3 years never hade problem with it eacept for oil leak and prestone leaks at both heads (gasket)

engine is 1973 la block
scat rotating
w2 race heads
crane roller .630 lift .272 int .282 ex(to much)
harland sharp 1.6 roller rockers
custom push rod
m1 single plane intake (bad choice)
franck lupo converter(4200) not enough

if I were you I would try to find better heads
thats true its a street engine but the heads will hold you back
 
thanks for the advice crazy 340. at this point i just want to get the engine up and running. i mean im willing to spend the 1000 bucks to get the heads worked on and use them for this spring summer and fall and than next winter id love to get a set of w2 econo's. why was the m1 single plane a bad choice??? would you rather go with a dual plane like the performer rpm or airgap??? and the highest stall im really willing to go will be about 3500 as my car is street driven 95 percent of the time. i dont know what your w2's flow but is your cam really to big? or is the ideal operating rpm for that cam just to high for the 4 inch arm?
 
what do ou guys think of 3.73 gears in a 8 3/4 for a good street/strip gear? i have a 727 torqueflight with shiftkit and cheetah shifter
 
You should stick with 2.02 valves to keep some velocity and less shrouding. With that cam and compression ratio, 500 HP is going to be a stretch. I made 513 with 10:1 compression and a Comp CAms XE295HL an 1.65:1. Having a roller cam might make up some, but with .550 lift and 9.5:1 CR, I don't think you'll make it. .040 over won't be a problem. Mine's .060 over.
 
I would ditch the factory heads and get some RHS heads. That way you'll have a quench combustion chamber and can run 10:1 or more compression on pump gas. With the open chamber factory heads they won't have quench and will be more prone to detonation so you'll be forced to run lower compression and make less power. Why dump all that cash into old obsolete heads when the RHS heads are readily available. Get Shady Dell to prep some of those up for you and bolt those on. It would be about the same cost as porting them old open chamber factory heads. I would also work with Ryan on the total combination. He will help you with getting the right combination of parts to meet your goals. He is very practical and down to earth and will provide outstanding expert advice; use it. Sell those x heads to someone hung up on a correct restoration type of car.
 
I agree with not spending the cash on the older heads.

Buy some RHS X heads from Brian at Indio Motor Machine, member OU812 here on FABO. He has a really nice set up for a great price. He's built a few 400+ inch engines with RHS heads and has some really proven combos for them.
 
With a full port 894x headed stroker with a 750 hp Holley,step headers,an M1 single plane and a xe275hl cam with a 1.6 roller rocker 9.5 comp.ratio etc. you would be in the 440 hp/490 ft/lb range like the one i built.In a light 3150 lb A body with the right gear like a 3.91 4.10 ratio and a good street/strip suspension it will get you in the 11's easy and be fully streetable.
 
X3 on the heads. Take advantage of technology.

You should up the compression ratio to at least 10 to 1 but could do 10 to 1 and still run pump gas.

You can run a 3500 stall on the street anything less than that and it will fall on its face off the line. That is if you plan on spanking that snot nosed brat mustang driver next to you that just needs to be taught a lesson.:headbang: 3.91 gears are fine for the street.

I don't know about 500 but mid 400's and alot of torq.
 
I would be running at least a 4.10 gear,afterall my 6pk Bee i use to own came factory with them,just run a taller tire. Air Gap intake would up the torque for you and a 750hp would probably be best suited for a street driven car.I run mildly P&P Eddy heads and would never go to a factory cast head unless i was running a Stocker.
Your choice in converters will make a huge difference how the car leaves the line. My 408 Aspen R/T fell on it's face with a 4800 stall compaired to the 5500 i usually run.
Your street car should be fine with the 3500 but 4.10 gears a must.
Good Luck
 
FYI, the old saying "Gears make um Go" For a experiment I took the 4.30's out of my drag car and installed a set of 3.73's and lost 3 tenths.
X4 on the heads,, go with aftermarket.
We did a similar 415 inch engine with a flat tappet in a 76 Aspen and ran 10.90's with 4.56's.
 
If you put in 4:10's then run a taller tire to take some of the RPM out of it then you are defeating the purpose of running the gear. Run a 28" tire with the 3.90's and get a true 3.90, run a 29.5 tire with 4.10 and run a 3.90ish gear. Guess it is up to you.
 
I would also buy new RHS heads before spending $1000 on old iron. Not that they aren't good. It's just the new RHS heads with just a mild p&p will be better and with a decent roller cam should easily get you to 500 hp. Actually if you think of it you can put $1000 into a set of X heads or buy a new set of ready to go RHS heads from Brian @ Indio Motor for $1300-ish and sell your old X heads for $200-300 and the money is real close to the same but you end up with better heads.

4:10 gears are fine race gears but not very street friendly gears IMO. I had them in my Cuda with a 27" tire and it was screamin down the hwy at 60 mph. 4:10's might make it a little faster than 3.55's or 3:73's but they don't even compare in driver friendly-ness of the takker gears. For what it's worth I took the 4:10's out of my car and put in 3:73's and it only lost a tenth in the 1/4. Dropped the 60 mph rpm from 3450 to 3000. I wanted less rpm yet so I put in 3:55's and it dropped the rpm at 60 to 2800. Lost another tenth but it was worth it since the wife and I like to cruise a lot. Gained 5 mpg too which sure helps when you have to run premium.

One more thing. I would think .040 over would be ok but I'd have the block sonic checked just to make sure there isn't a thin spot(s).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top