426 Wedge possible install challenges

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BigB6958

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Hey all

My first post/request for info. I have access to a purpose built, well running 500HP 426 Wedge that a guy is removing from his 69 charger. I have seen it run and it comes with the also purpose built 727 attached. I am wondering what types of challenges I might encounter getting it installed if I was to purchase. It will go into my currently in mid-restoration 67 Dart GT conv automatic that I recently removed a crusty old 273 from. Just wondering if I am attempting something not worth the effort, or is it easier than I am imagining? Just looking for advice on what I need to do in order to accommodate that package into the space in the engine bay. What parts are recommended to make the swap easier?

If there are already threads on this discussion I apologize for starting something already covered....but I look forward to your thoughts and feedback....much appreciated!

Thx
Brad
 
Matching the cam and torque converter to your car's spec's will enhance your end result. Consider adding EFI and overdrive to finish things off nicely. Otherwise go for it!
 
jbc426 said:
Matching the cam and torque converter to your car's spec's will enhance your end result. Consider adding EFI and overdrive to finish things off nicely. Otherwise go for it!
Click to expand...
I definitely would like to go OD. Which tranny do you suggest for this application? EFI swap would be a for sure thing. What do you mean by "matching the cam" to the cars specs? I have asked him for the TC and cam spec.
 
number one with a bullet is gonna be exhaust. be ready to flop down 1K plus in that department.

you'll need to swap out the oil pan straight away so there's $300~400 and then add in some conversion swap mounts ($200), a mini starter ($150), throttle & kick down linkage ($100+) to physically get it in and hooked up and somewhat operational and you're looking at an easy $2000

then you have other considerations:
  • cooling system, you'll likely need to upgrade
  • suspension & steering- you'll need bigger t-bars for the chonk block, do you want to keep power steering or nah. if so, cough up some dough there.
  • brakes and chassis- you'll 100% need subframe connectors, it would be wise to upgrade the brakes and a rear end so there's a whole big mess of money. and when you upgrade your brakes and rear end to large bolt pattern you'll need new rims and likely tires.
so all of this is money that needs to be spent in making the swap. now you have the probability that the torque converter would be all wrong for your set up, which would mean splashing the pot for a new custom built piece so you'll be shelling out another 700~1200 bones.

so, it's doable and the parts are out there but it's a grip of dough.
 
BigB6958 said:
I definitely would like to go OD. Which tranny do you suggest for this application? EFI swap would be a for sure thing. What do you mean by "matching the cam" to the cars specs? I have asked him for the TC and cam spec.
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camshafts chosen for engines in big heavy cars may not be suitably matched to a lighter weight car, the torque converter matches the cam, which matches the gears, which matches the weight of the car. so you *might* need to change the cam and torque converter to keep the build optimal.

there is no "easy" or "cheap" OD solution and most all of them require some fairly extensive floor and frame modification. hemmed in by a big block, your options are even fewer. my back of the bar room napkin math pens out to something in the 5~7K range

EFI is affordable and accessible, if you're looking at a TBI style system. if you want multi port, and an ignition system that compliments it, be ready to cough up a bunch of dough.
 
I believe the end result would be a very cool ride. Maybe more easily doable if you had an original 383 big block Dart. I have to echo the cost of what Hero is saying but if it doesn't matter...ROCK IT. If cost is a huge consideration, it would be interesting to add up the actual cost of the new 426 wedge engine and trans and the projected costs from JY Hero. You could get a banging rebuild on your original 273 that would make that little Dart fly and keep your life simple and a lot of money in your pocket.
 
BigB6958 said:
I definitely would like to go OD. Which tranny do you suggest for this application?
Click to expand...

Since your considering this for your A-body '67 Dart I would suggest you strongly consider a built 200-4R OD trans since it will fit in the A-body trans tunnel without the major surgery required for other OD trannys. The 200-4R offers a .67OD and better 1-2-3 gear spread ratios than a 727.
There are several threads about this trans here on FABO.
I had the one for my '69 Dart built by Extreme Automatics in Amelia, OH (Extreme Automatics 2004R complete units and performance parts.). They offer three different build stages to handle up to 1000HP/750TQ. They also offer a modification to the 200-4R where they machine off the bellhousing and replace it with a bolt-on Reid billet bell. Check 'em out.
 
Suspension upgrades,
Minimum 8 3/4 rear axle
Leaf springs
Frame connectors with a convertible, maybe even torque boxes

Driveshaft

$ for headers

Cooling considerations

Very good brakes
 
Lots of good feedback, thank you.. Lots to consider. Might be less hassle and reasonable equivalent benefit (other than the cool factor of course, and since I don't plan on anything more than a great sounding cruiser) to do up a nice 340 instead. There a several around here for sale, stramped anywhere from 68-71. Much easier on the pocketbook.
 
BigB6958 said:
Lots of good feedback, thank you.. Lots to consider. Might be less hassle and reasonable equivalent benefit (other than the cool factor of course, and since I don't plan on anything more than a great sounding cruiser) to do up a nice 340 instead. There a several around here for sale, stramped anywhere from 68-71. Much easier on the pocketbook.
Click to expand...

A 360 is more easier on pocketbook. visually and fit-wise identical to a 340. And a little bit more torque for a convertible cruising machine.
 
A 340 block open market will cost $800 or probably more than a comparable 360 block.

So motors you would buy in whatever stage long block, short block, carb to pan will reflect that difference. If you were having the motor built, that $800 extra would pay for the upgrade to a stroker 360 with 410 cid.
 
autoxcuda said:
A 360 is more easier on pocketbook. visually and fit-wise identical to a 340. And a little bit more torque for a convertible cruising machine.
Click to expand...

autoxcuda said:
A 340 block open market will cost $800 or probably more than a comparable 360 block.

So motors you would buy in whatever stage long block, short block, carb to pan will reflect that difference. If you were having the motor built, that $800 extra would pay for the upgrade to a stroker 360 with 410 cid.
Click to expand...
Located a fresh built 360 short block that was removed from a 78 cordoba. Stock crank and connecting rods with 9:1 pistons, new comp cam flat tappet and lifters, cloyes timing chain, Melling oil pump $850 CAD. Ready for any other goodies. Dart already has 8 3/4 rear end, I kept the mini starter off the 273 that was originally in there. Cooling is already there for the small block setup and I'm pretty sure the 360 will bolt directly to the tranny that was attached to the 273 after I do a rebuild. I was already thinking of frame rail connectors and replacing front suspension parts with Hotchkiss kit.

I think this engine may be a good purchase to add to it. the 426 sounds like more work than value for what I want to do. Thoughts?
 
Since your in the middle of a restoration,,,,it probably won’t be the bank account breaker that has been posted .

Yes,,,,it will be a fair amount extra cash,,but you are already spending a pot load anyway right ?

It can be done,,,,yes it will be money,,,and not for the faint of heart !

By the way,,,,I still like carburetors myself .
And you won’t need an overdrive,,,,it’s a light chassis,,with a big blocks torque,,,gear accordingly .

But,,,,you can keep it SBM too,,,,and save some hassle,,,,,but the money will still be almost the same .

Tommy
 
BigB6958 said:
Located a fresh built 360 short block that was removed from a 78 cordoba. Stock crank and connecting rods with 9:1 pistons, new comp cam flat tappet and lifters, cloyes timing chain, Melling oil pump $850 CAD. Ready for any other goodies. Dart already has 8 3/4 rear end, I kept the mini starter off the 273 that was originally in there. Cooling is already there for the small block setup and I'm pretty sure the 360 will bolt directly to the tranny that was attached to the 273 after I do a rebuild. I was already thinking of frame rail connectors and replacing front suspension parts with Hotchkiss kit.

I think this engine may be a good purchase to add to it. the 426 sounds like more work than value for what I want to do. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
FYI the guy wants 10k but is negotiable for the complete 426 wedge and tranny that started the conversation. As I mentioned, already built to 500+ HP documented so it might be a cool way to go as well. As Tommy said above...already doing resto so perhaps could still be in the cards. I think thats a decent price for the wedge...again....thoughts?
 
Make yourself happy,,,,,it will be a fair amount of frustration,,,,,a big block takes a lot of room .
It’s good to ask questions,,,,,,the more information you can get will help you in your decision .

Tommy
 
I can sell you a 360 or 340, 400 + inch stroker kit for a 1/3 of that money and it will fit in the car more easily.

The engine compartment didn't get larger until 68, putting a 440 in there for anything other than strictly drag racing is not worth the hassle.

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I can sell you a 360 or 340, 400 + inch stroker kit for a 1/3 of that money and it will fit in the car more easily.

The engine compartment didn't get larger until 68, putting a 440 in there for anything other than strictly drag racing is not worth the hassle.


Tom
Click to expand...

Actually it got bigger in 1967 for A-bodies.
 
BigB6958 said:
I definitely would like to go OD. Which tranny do you suggest for this application? EFI swap would be a for sure thing. What do you mean by "matching the cam" to the cars specs? I have asked him for the TC and cam spec.
Click to expand...
Speed cost money, How fast do you want to go? I started on my '68 A-Body about 20 years ago. First upgrade was big bolt pattern with disc brakes all around. Then US Cartool's chassis stiffening kit. After 10+ years of running a Slant 6.

Then I woke up one day and pulled it out. I replaced it with a re-cammed, junkyard EFI'd 5.9 Magnum bolted to a 727. It wasn't long before I upgraded to a 500 hp 408 Magnum bolted to a 2004R with a Reid Bellhousing.

Now that motor is out and I'm replacing it with an 820 flywheel hp 408 Magnum based motor with Edy CNC'd heads, and a Holley Terminator Max controller with a Stage 2, re-geared 4L60 from Performabuilt Transmissions.

It simply as addicting as it ever has been. Captain Kirk explained it best when he told Scotty, "I've got to have more power!"

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Another thing to consider is 67 904 input shaft and TC are a one (1) year only size.
I found that out the hard way. A TC I bought for what I thought was the right one, would not work. (not Fit). I had to buy a later year 904 !
 
BigB6958 said:
Hey all

My first post/request for info. I have access to a purpose built, well running 500HP 426 Wedge that a guy is removing from his 69 charger. I have seen it run and it comes with the also purpose built 727 attached. I am wondering what types of challenges I might encounter getting it installed if I was to purchase. It will go into my currently in mid-restoration 67 Dart GT conv automatic that I recently removed a crusty old 273 from. Just wondering if I am attempting something not worth the effort, or is it easier than I am imagining? Just looking for advice on what I need to do in order to accommodate that package into the space in the engine bay. What parts are recommended to make the swap easier?

If there are already threads on this discussion I apologize for starting something already covered....but I look forward to your thoughts and feedback....much appreciated!

Thx
Brad
Click to expand...

Here's some issues you run into with going to big block and using conversion mounts and adding the fitment issues headers into the mix.

440 sitting crooked?
 
Last edited:
cudamike13 said:
Another thing to consider is 67 904 input shaft and TC are a one (1) year only size.
I found that out the hard way. A TC I bought for what I thought was the right one, would not work. (not Fit). I had to buy a later year 904 !
Click to expand...
I don't actually know what year trans is in it. My understanding is that the motor and trans that came with it were swapped there by a previous owner a long time ago and it originally was a 6 cyl. Might be the original trans. Not sure. I have to take it out anyway so I will figure it out at that point.
 
BigB6958 said:
I don't actually know what year trans is in it. My understanding is that the motor and trans that came with it were swapped there by a previous owner a long time ago and it originally was a 6 cyl. Might be the original trans. Not sure. I have to take it out anyway so I will figure it out at that point.
Click to expand...
The trans will not work if from a slant 6.
V8 trans is different.
 
BigB6958 said:
Then its a v8 trans since that what I removed from the engine bay.
Click to expand...
A small block automatic transmission is different from a big block transmission. Also the 426 wedge engine isn’t much different than a 440 except that it has a few less cubes. A 426 max wedge engine is a whole different story.
 
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