440 info

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'68-340-S

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Any one know of a good place to find out all the specs on motorhome 440's ( Comp. ratio, HP/TQ. Etc Etc). I'm picking up a '76 440 W/727 for 150.00. It's compleat minus carb and only has 36k on it. I think it'll look good under the hood of my '56. The crank alone should be worth 150.
 
The specs (HP & torgue) are basically (if not) the same as a truck (pickup) motor. As far as the crank is concerned there is a 99% chance it is a cast crank. I have yet to see a 440 motorhome motor after 1972 come with a forged crank. I left the 1% because there are exceptions to every rule. I would say that any 440 with trans is worth $150.00 regardless if it has a cast or forged crank (OK no windows or siezed ones). Cast cranks are alot stronger than people give them credit for.

Chuck
 
Chucks probably right in saying that the crank is probably cast and therefore will be fine in a mild street buildup. One caution though, I've learned that what the seller says it is and what it actually is can be 2 different things. For the price you can't got wrong especially with the tranny included. Do yourself a favour, when you get the stuff home right down the engine casting number, head casting numbers (both cause they could be different) and crankshaft casting number and post them on this site and we'll tell you exactly what you got. Two other things, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a motor home 440 block and some would say it's a dam good block because of it's better cooling capability. Also there is a flat pad on top of the block, at the front, just to the left of the left hand (driver side) cylinder bank that will have a series of numbers stamped into it which if this is a 76 440, the stamping will be 6T440. Have fun and welcome to the dark side, Sorry Leo.

Terry :burnout:
 
In addition to what Leo said here is a link that will show codes for other stampings on the pad. If see an "E" stamped anywere other than in front of 440 it is a cast crank, for example:
6T440 E The "E" would stand for a "cast crank" in a 1976 440

E440HP The "E" would stand for "1969" of a 440HP

http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html

Chuck
 
Is the block stamped 440-3 somewhere on the right side of the block? This would be another way of designating a 440 MH motor. These motors are fairly similar to a 440 lookswise,however, there is some differences. The heads on the -3 contain peanut shaped cooling passages around the sparkplug holes for extra cooling. I am not totally sure if all of these motors had sodium filled exhaust valves. Depending on who you ask, these motors did come with roller timing chains with steel gears. They are just built in mind for a heavier duty, most of the geometry is the same. Horsepower is fairly close to a regular truck 440 with power ranging between 225 to 255 net horsepower, depending on year, from my recollection. The most important spec would be the low end torque that these mills put out, somewhere in the range of 335 to 365 ft-lbs net, depending on year. These are iron tough motors, probably the best MH engine ever made, next to diesils. Mine has 99,000 miles. I've been working on it with my dad since I was 5. Now im 21 and I still drive it now. Runs awesome,with some add-ons, plus its in a smaller 19ft. '81 Dodge Brougham van conversion. Hope this helps.
 
Some other tim bits adam, these are low compression engines and probably with the good 452 (hardened valve seat) heads. If this block turns out to be a 76-78 block it will be one of the, what they called the thin wall castings. There is no problem with this other than Mopar does not recommend boring the cylinders past .030" of stock. This is right out of the Mopar book. Pre 76 the max overbore is .060".

Terry
 
That mopar book is wrong. It's been debunked by a bunch of guys with sonic testers. I've found 76-78 blocks in most cases to be as thick or thicker because of better casting methods and cores than many "early" (we'll say '67-mid 70s) "thick walled" blocks. Much less core shift on the later ones.
 
moper said:
That mopar book is wrong. It's been debunked by a bunch of guys with sonic testers. I've found 76-78 blocks in most cases to be as thick or thicker because of better casting methods and cores than many "early" (we'll say '67-mid 70s) "thick walled" blocks. Much less core shift on the later ones.

You're right moper, it is loosely based on core shift or lack there of. But I deal in the worst case world so considering that I and many other do not posess an ultra sound thickness tester I go by the numbers given.

Terry
 
moper said:
That mopar book is wrong. It's been debunked by a bunch of guys with sonic testers. I've found 76-78 blocks in most cases to be as thick or thicker because of better casting methods and cores than many "early" (we'll say '67-mid 70s) "thick walled" blocks. Much less core shift on the later ones.

Yep, this is true, 440Source has some good info on the 76-78 blocks, they can safely be bored .060, i have a 77 440 (7T 440 E) .030 over, 7.86 comp., its one tuff cookie, to me, its just as strong as the earlier blocks, if not stronger...
 
Thanks guys,
Now I just have to get it and find a hole in the garage to stick it in. My overall goal is to sell it with a 8 &3/4 as a package deal with my '56, then sell off alot of the other suff i've ended up with over the years so I can get the cuda in the body shop.
 
Demon I didnt mean to sound as aggressive as I just did when I re-read..sorry about that. One of my pet peeves is the lack of updating in the various books we all learn(ed) from. Originally written in late 70s, thru the 80s, those books leave out a lot of modern tech that can really make things easier if you're doing a project.
 
moper said:
Demon I didnt mean to sound as aggressive as I just did when I re-read..sorry about that. One of my pet peeves is the lack of updating in the various books we all learn(ed) from. Originally written in late 70s, thru the 80s, those books leave out a lot of modern tech that can really make things easier if you're doing a project.

Thanks Moper, point taken, only wish this web site was around 10 yrs. ago.

Terry
 
340mopar said:
The specs (HP & torgue) are basically (if not) the same as a truck (pickup) motor. As far as the crank is concerned there is a 99% chance it is a cast crank. I have yet to see a 440 motorhome motor after 1972 come with a forged crank. I left the 1% because there are exceptions to every rule. I would say that any 440 with trans is worth $150.00 regardless if it has a cast or forged crank (OK no windows or siezed ones). Cast cranks are alot stronger than people give them credit for.

Chuck


i guess im the 1%. i have 73 413 industrial with a forged crank. came out of a motorhome.
 
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