440 Starter Opinion

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famous bob said:
Any one have heat soak on hot restart problems , that have found a cure/ my powermaster spins the 505 great , untill I try to restart it hot, hit the key , nothing , release and hit it again will crank and start, but seems to be getting worse/weaker ------------???
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DO you have room for the original large starter? I've found most of the time they out power anything else as long as there is room.
 
RustyRatRod said:
DO you have room for the original large starter? I've found most of the time they out power anything else as long as there is room.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rob , no I dont . Thinking about pulling the trigger on a "supposedly" 4 horse starter , and increasing the size of the big hot wire from the relay to the starter.
Pain in the *** to pull the headers to get to it .
 
Ok, here what I needed to do to get the starter out of the 440/auto,manual steering,Eddy heads,TTI long tube headers.

The obvious, Disconnect Battery, Jack up car as high as I could , place Jack Stands.

Removed front Tires.

Removed steering linkage.

Removed spark plugs , moved wires LHS out of way.

Unbolt lower header flange.

Unbolt Header from engine. (No anti-freeze leak with Eddy heads)

Disconnect starter wire(s)

Unbolt starter.

Move around header to get widest space as possible.

I needed to unbolt one tranny line on tranny to get the starter out (you may not have to) and then tighten back up to stop dripping.

Starter is out. Called it a night hoping to reverse the procedure without issues.

Took the Old man about 2 ½ hours.
 
famous bob said:
Any one have heat soak on hot restart problems , that have found a cure/ my powermaster spins the 505 great , untill I try to restart it hot, hit the key , nothing , release and hit it again will crank and start, but seems to be getting worse/weaker ------------???
Click to expand...
What style headers do you have, Under chassis? Have you got enough room to fit a 3/16 plate of aluminum in between the tube & the starter?
 
Yes 1 7/8" underchassis. I wrapped the tubes by the starter when I 1st built it (Still looks good). The starter was slow from day one and slowly got worse over time to the point it will no longer turn it at all.It was a 440 source starter. Someone else on Fabo had the same thing happen with that starter around the time I bought mine.Not sure about space for a heat sheild but may consider it. Thanks
 
Kendog 170 said:
Ok, here what I needed to do to get the starter out of the 440/auto,manual steering,Eddy heads,TTI long tube headers.

The obvious, Disconnect Battery, Jack up car as high as I could , place Jack Stands.

Removed front Tires.

Removed steering linkage.

Removed spark plugs , moved wires LHS out of way.

Unbolt lower header flange.

Unbolt Header from engine. (No anti-freeze leak with Eddy heads)

Disconnect starter wire(s)

Unbolt starter.

Move around header to get widest space as possible.

I needed to unbolt one tranny line on tranny to get the starter out (you may not have to) and then tighten back up to stop dripping.

Starter is out. Called it a night hoping to reverse the procedure without issues.

Took the Old man about 2 ½ hours.
Click to expand...

Same here , except I dont have to remove the front tire or steering linkage >aftermarket front end---------still a ***** !
 
MOPARMAGA said:
What style headers do you have, Under chassis? Have you got enough room to fit a 3/16 plate of aluminum in between the tube & the starter?
Click to expand...

In a nutshell , no !~I made a little alum sheild , wrapped the inside and outside w/ some new header wrap I`m messing w/ , "did I say ,I hate that stuff", couldnt make it work w/ the location of the starter wires, one on top, one one bottom. Dont remember the brand , but has been a good starter from day one, untill I dewrapped the headers and found a lot of rust, then had them 2000 degree black painted after sand blasting, Paint is holding up well, but no heat passing quality.
I have saved up a few $$ , and cant make up my mind wheather to get new in-out thermal coated headers , or have a convertor built .
My 440/505 doesnt run like I think it should .
 
I wrapped my headers before installing I can't imagine how frustrating it would be to wrap installed. Doesn't run like it should in what way?
 
Kendog 170 said:
I wrapped my headers before installing I can't imagine how frustrating it would be to wrap installed. Doesn't run like it should in what way?
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Dissapointed on the dragstrip , only had it out there once , 11.90`s spinning, 1.79 / 60ft no front end lift at all.
new disc brakes take a lot to get used to trying to stall it up. Learned a lot about it and have been changing some stuff , only 3:73 gears tho.
 
Mine's set up for street. 440/500 ,850 Holley,727 B&M holeshot ,323 gear,3" Exh. , Drag radials,Drove it there. Hooked good on Nostagia Day 2 years ago 11.70 so I think you can do much better. Fix the spinning.
I'm just a Yahoo on tuning. Set up carb myself and Dizzy. I'm a 62 year old rookie lol.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Yes 1 7/8" underchassis. I wrapped the tubes by the starter when I 1st built it (Still looks good). The starter was slow from day one and slowly got worse over time to the point it will no longer turn it at all.It was a 440 source starter. Someone else on Fabo had the same thing happen with that starter around the time I bought mine.Not sure about space for a heat sheild but may consider it. Thanks
Click to expand...
May also consider a v10 magnum starter.
 
famous bob said:
Thanks Rob , no I dont . Thinking about pulling the trigger on a "supposedly" 4 horse starter , and increasing the size of the big hot wire from the relay to the starter.
Pain in the *** to pull the headers to get to it .
Click to expand...

That's too bad. I have never, ever seen an engine that the original Chrysler starter would not turn over, as long as the cables are big enough and everything is grounded properly with a good hot battery. Whether the engine was hot, 15:1 or "whatever". Never seen one fail that was "right".
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's too bad. I have never, ever seen an engine that the original Chrysler starter would not turn over, as long as the cables are big enough and everything is grounded properly with a good hot battery. Whether the engine was hot, 15:1 or "whatever". Never seen one fail that was "right".
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Yeah I got an old one laying under the bench , no room w/ the tti headers. I used a stock starter on the old hemi cars never had a heat soak problem w/ them.
 
Well my plans changed. I left my phone there last night so I can't show the pics yet but last year I grabbed a starter at the pick and pull for $20 . I took the starter out of my Ragtop and installed to make sure it works. It's been in there ever since. Well last night I dug out the other starter and found it to be about 3/4" longer in both Soleniod and starter winding area than the New and the bad starter so I must assume it would crank stronger ? I know when I 1st started my Ragtop after rebuild I almost thought I messed up timing setting as it cranked so dam fast like there was no compression. Car fired right up though and Compression is 160 PSI. Can't find a # on it just the area where ther used to be a lable. I know I got it off a late 80's 318 pickup. I found this pic I took I'm not sure if it's the longer starter before I painted it.
I bolted it in but need to make up a jumper wire to connect both Terminals as I'm using a Ford relay with my Trunk mount battery set up.

Mini starter - Copy (2).jpg
 
Kendog 170 said:
I wrapped my headers before installing I can't imagine how frustrating it would be to wrap installed. Doesn't run like it should in what way?
Click to expand...

hey dog , I didnt say I was wrapping the headers in the car =impossible on mine . --lol
 
I got ya. Actually I checked my wrap job and it was wrapped to protect the tranny lines not the starter lol so I might try and make a sheild from aluminium like you have done.
 
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