4bt 72 Dart

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Here is the start of the trans mounts I am building. It is kinda of crude, but should get the job done. There will be 2 more bolts added to it, and I'm using 7/16 bolts instead of the 3/8 ones that came with it. Funny thing is the factory holes fit the 7/16 bolts just fine. Also, I will weld some triangles at the inside corners so it won't crack there.

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I'm using an 8.25 out of an Aspen r/t I think it was. It was not much bigger than an a-body rear end. The gears I am using are 2.45, to keep the RPMs in the teens, since that's were the engine likes to be.
 
Well I finally got the transmission mount done. I don't work that fast, but what was slowing me down the most, was the rubber mount. I didn't like what I had, but found that a Chevy trans mount fit the bolt spacing on the trans with a small bit of elongating the holes a bit, and it was just what I was looking for. I like that it is nice a tucked up under the body and you would just think it has the usual deep trans pan. Oh and I'm no pro at welding and this piece is the biggest thing I have ever welded and it was with flux core. So don't make fun!:lol:

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I haven't welded anything in years....I am sure the first thing I ever welded didn't look that good. I think my dad told me it was ugly but it should hold and if you really need it pretty, get out a grinder. Keep at it. Looks good.
 
I haven't welded anything in years....I am sure the first thing I ever welded didn't look that good. I think my dad told me it was ugly but it should hold and if you really need it pretty, get out a grinder. Keep at it. Looks good.



Thanks! I figured I could grind it, but then I thought, the weld is thicker if I don't and since it is under the car, you all will probably be the only ones seeing it anyways.
 
I am not going to lie, if people get that close to anything I have to nitpick, screw em'. I am building cars you can drive and not **** your pants if they get scratched!
 
I am not going to lie, if people get that close to anything I have to nitpick, screw em'. I am building cars you can drive and not **** your pants if they get scratched!



That and fuel mileage is the whole reason I'm building this car. I want to be able to park it somewhere and not worry about it. I'm not going to put a big C on it to advise it has a Cummins in it ether.
 
It's been a while, but I have a been tinkering with the car when get a chance. Getting my other car ready to drag race this last weekend took priority. I have decide what I am going to do with the front end for steering, and that is install a rack and pinion to steer from the front, instead of the back. This eliminate the pitman and idler arms so they don't hit the block. Also, it makes more room for the starter so it's not clocked up against the block and I can run the block lift pump. Another, since the gear box won't be there anymore, I can run the power steering pump. I may not use power steering, but I can use a hydro boost master cylinder now. Which also brings me to the other thing I changed out, which will make some people cringe. But, I swapped out the P-pump for a rotary pump. One for better fuel mileage than the P-pump and 2 there is much more room now to fit the hydro boost master cylinder. I want the hydro boost because, since I'm using an auto now, I don't want the car pulling me through a stop light with the manual brakes. But, that's all for now. I'll have to relearn how to post pics from my phone again since the update.
 
Gotta change the lift pump or regulate the fuel pressure down to run the rotary style Injector pump, anything over about 15 psi will blow out the front seal.
 
Gotta change the lift pump or regulate the fuel pressure down to run the rotary style Injector pump, anything over about 15 psi will blow out the front seal.


I'm not trying to sound ignorant or anything, so please don't take this badly, but have you actually had that happen, or know someone that has, or did you just hear it? I ask, because I have heard both ways, but have heard of more that it works fine. So, I'm not sure what to think.
 
But, I do know that ether someone makes a weaker spring you can use or that they sell the whole pump with a weaker spring in it for lower pressure, but in the same style pump, instead of the one that came with the VE-pump engines. So, I may just find one of those.
 
Ok, I found the low pressure piston lift pump. It's only around 16psi. I will eventually get one, so I don't blow the seal out.
 
I have no personal experience with a blown out front seal on an injector pump nor do I know anyone who has experienced it so I'm only parroting what I've read on the interweb, it could just be misinformation that's getting passed around but if the front seal does happen to get pushed out it's going to fill the crankcase with fuel and you won't know it until you check the oil or it starts knocking, so not a good situation. The stock lift pump for the VE injector pump puts out 5 to 7 lbs of fuel pressure, the lift pump you have on there puts out about 4 times as much pressure.

Same thing goes for the killer dowel pin on these B series Cummins engines, I've never seen one come loose in person, I've seen pics of the aftermath though, I have personally seen timing case bolts that were loose which if left unchecked will destroy the front cover and gear train. It would be worth it at this point to pop the timing cover and check these things at this stage of the build while everything is accessible up front. Also check the timing gear for cracks while your in there, I've had that happen to my 6BT. Another "while your in there" mod which I've done is to "pin" the front seal into the injector pump to keep it from walking out, this involves drilling and tapping 3 small holes around the seal parallel to the shaft and installing 3 button head screws with some locktite prevent the seal coming out.

These are good little engines but expensive when they break so an ounce of prevention is worth a couple of pounds of cure in this case.

The Hungry Diesel.com sells a low pressure piston lift pump for the VE injector pump and I believe sells a weaker spring to lower the pressure. I know your build is for mileage but the fuel pin and 3200 rpm governor spring upgrade really wakes these engines up, just have to keep your foot out of it to keep mpg's up.
 
I have no personal experience with a blown out front seal on an injector pump nor do I know anyone who has experienced it so I'm only parroting what I've read on the interweb, it could just be misinformation that's getting passed around but if the front seal does happen to get pushed out it's going to fill the crankcase with fuel and you won't know it until you check the oil or it starts knocking, so not a good situation. The stock lift pump for the VE injector pump puts out 5 to 7 lbs of fuel pressure, the lift pump you have on there puts out about 4 times as much pressure.

Same thing goes for the killer dowel pin on these B series Cummins engines, I've never seen one come loose in person, I've seen pics of the aftermath though, I have personally seen timing case bolts that were loose which if left unchecked will destroy the front cover and gear train. It would be worth it at this point to pop the timing cover and check these things at this stage of the build while everything is accessible up front. Also check the timing gear for cracks while your in there, I've had that happen to my 6BT. Another "while your in there" mod which I've done is to "pin" the front seal into the injector pump to keep it from walking out, this involves drilling and tapping 3 small holes around the seal parallel to the shaft and installing 3 button head screws with some locktite prevent the seal coming out.

These are good little engines but expensive when they break so an ounce of prevention is worth a couple of pounds of cure in this case.

The Hungry Diesel.com sells a low pressure piston lift pump for the VE injector pump and I believe sells a weaker spring to lower the pressure. I know your build is for mileage but the fuel pin and 3200 rpm governor spring upgrade really wakes these engines up, just have to keep your foot out of it to keep mpg's up.


I did find more information on the LP lift pump and between you and several others that stated it. I'll will just spend the extra money to get the LP lift pump. I found one on Amazon, but I'll have to check the site you mentioned out.

I do have plans for installing the 3200rpm spring and fuel pin. I and going to leave the injectors stock. I don't want to be blowing a bunch of smoke, so I'm going to get the towing fuel pin from Denny Performance. I have read it is pretty good and from what it says on there it doesn't smoke like the stage 2 does.

Yes, I will definitely be doing the fix for the KDP. When I removed the cover to do the whole pump swap. I seen that this engine was a ticking time bomb. The pin was on its way out.

I will have to look into the three pins in the pump. I have never heard of the that one yet. But, I will be tearing down the whole engine when I'm done getting everything all mounted up. I'll also have the rotating assembly balance, to cut down on vibrations at idle.

Thank you for sharing all the info with me!!!
 
I just checked out the Hungry Diesel site and thank you for telling me about it! They have a lot of neat stuff on there.
 
Interesting read this build its way different and outside of the box! it will be rock solid if you do it right out last the body :p!
 
Interesting read this build its way different and outside of the box! it will be rock solid if you do it right out last the body :p!


That's for sure, especially since it will be an everyday driver. I will have to under coat it with 50 lb of under coat so the salt in the winter don't eat it.
 
As of right now I'm in the middle of making my own exhaust manifold for the engine, since I can't find any 4/6bt manifold that I can get to fit. I will post pics soon. It will just be a log style manifold, nothing fancy.
 
Here are some pics of the manifold I'm making. I got the manifold mounting flange off EBay, and the turbo mounting flange front summit. Both are 1/2 mild steel. I bought the square tube and cut it.

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Some pics of my rack install. I got the idea from a member on here. I know it won't steer as sharp, but I'm building it for the highway, so it should be ok on my tires. I'll just not try to parallel park it:steering:.

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