5.9 magnum?

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7dart0

7dart0

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engine has been sitting a while. is it hard to check cranks and rod bearings without taking the heads off? the engine is on a stand right now. i bought it assembled but dont know cam specs or anything. i was going to replace the oil pump for cheap insurance. it came with edelbrock rpm intake, carter fuel pump, edelbrock water pump, tti ceramic headers, clutch fan.

any guidance would help. i would hate to pull it back out because the bearings were shot.
its going in my 70 dart swinger w 904 reverse manual auto but 7 1/4 rear:sad9:



tom
 
You don't have to take of the heads to check crank and rod bearings. Just pull the pan and take off one cap at a time. You take the cap off, the bearing for the cap shiuld come off with the cap then carefully use a plastic tool to push/roll the bottom( which is actually the top because I'm assuming the engine is on a stand upside down) where you can get ahold of it. You can also roll in new bearings the same way.
 
yes the engine is on a stand. i just want to disturb the least amount of stuff as possible. my dad thinks i should pull the crank to have it checked at the machine shop.
 
You can Check the crank with it in place when and if you replace the bearings.
 
Check out eBay "how to build big inch mopar small blocks 318,340,360, 5.2,5.9 magnum" it will have everything you want to know.
 
I would not change anything until I plastigaged and checked the pistons skirts and bore.

Just my 2 cents.
 
^Yup, these engines are tanks, they aren't like old ones; they run forever. Unless abused, they commonly have zero bore wear, or real wear of any kind, well into the 200k or more miles. I'd check the bearings, including thrust, give it a gasket job and let it rip.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
^Yup, these engines are tanks, they aren't like old ones; they run forever. Unless abused, they commonly have zero bore wear, or real wear of any kind, well into the 200k or more miles. I'd check the bearings, including thrust, give it a gasket job and let it rip.
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I'll have to agree! My 5.2 has 160k miles and looked like a new engine inside. I pulled the heads off intending to do a full rebuild. The cylinders still had the original cross-hatching. After much research and consideration, I lapped the valves and buckled it back up. If it ain't broke, don't try fixin' it!
 
68coupe said:
I'll have to agree! My 5.2 has 160k miles and looked like a new engine inside. I pulled the heads off intending to do a full rebuild. The cylinders still had the original cross-hatching. After much research and consideration, I lapped the valves and buckled it back up. If it ain't broke, don't try fixin' it!
Click to expand...

Same here, the Dakota I pulled mine out of had 185k on it, and I was going to just throw it in for mock up. Then when I pulled the pan, I saw the cross hatching in the cylinders and I threw an intake gasket on it (still running the kegger intake) and ran it. I've put 7k on my car and dont plan on rebuilding it until I have to, its just a driver though, not winning any races with a 5.2 in a C body sedan with 2.94s!
 
ya i wont be drag racing mine yet. ill be just cruising with it for the next couple years. especially with the 7 1/4" rear end.
 
im sure i will my soon to be 5 yr. old son loves it. even though it hasn't moved or ran in the 2 yrs. ive owned it.
 
That's what makes this hobby so fun...the car is never finished. Always changing and adding something new.
 
I would recommend at least looking at the crank.
My 5.9 still had the cross hatches in the cylinders, but the crank was wore, like it was run low on oil once.
I tore it clear down and cut the crank .010 and reconditioned the rods.
I still run the stock bore in it.
You can take the oil pump apart and check clearances, I bet you find it is good to use.
 
Love these engines, for a budget build. Sure beats the huge machine shop bills,for a basic street car.
 
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