512 stroker.

-

66 sport fury

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
lebanon connecticut
ok building 512 strker from 440 source, any input/exprience with thier steath heads? seem extremely affordable.(heli coil inserts,thick deck, decent flow numbers. provisions for larger/multiple springs and valley pan/plate) compared to edelbrock and the likes. how bout them hughes heads? another question about thier (seemingly cheap)fluid balancer? any good?
 
I personally havent built one but from what I hear you must check all the clearance and machining stuff very close. If you do this during the build and make any corrections needed you should be fine.
 
i did that exact kit! the race shop i used back home was very impressed with the quality of the product for the price!

i went with the eddy Victors... flow the same as a hemi out of the box (325) and cost less than the indy stuff (which is to big for the street)

what are your plans for the build and what you are going to do with it??

also they will switch out to KB pistons to little or no charge...
 

Attachments

  • 512 Stroker.jpg
    48 KB · Views: 757
  • 512 Stroker (3).jpg
    33.7 KB · Views: 712
  • 512 Stroker (4).jpg
    45.5 KB · Views: 712
  • 512 Stroker (9).jpg
    47.1 KB · Views: 790
  • 512 Stroker (11).jpg
    119.4 KB · Views: 765
  • 512 Stroker (23).jpg
    60.1 KB · Views: 742
  • 512 Stroker (32).jpg
    60.7 KB · Views: 695
  • 512 Stroker (31).jpg
    28.3 KB · Views: 4,062
  • 512 Stroker (30).jpg
    106.2 KB · Views: 7,646
would the stealth heads be to small for 512 inches?

looks like they are basically a ported 452...
Cylinder Head Technical Specs:
Intake Port Flow (at peak ~600 lift): 290CFM @ 28" of water Intake Port CC: 212CC* Intake Valve Head Size: 2.14" Intake Valve Stem Size: 11/32", undercut near valve head. Intake Valve Guide Type: .530" OD Manganese Bronze Intake Valve Seals Type: Positive Locking type, maintains contact at all times with the valve and guide, reduced diameter compatible with most dual valve springs. Intake Valve Type: 1 piece forged 21-4N stainless, swirl polished heads, hardened tips. Intake Valve Locks 7 degree, single groove, chrome-moly steel, case hardened. Recommended for maximum .510" lift. Exhaust Port Flow (at peak ~600 lift): 220CFM @ 28" of water Exhaust Port CC: 72CC* Exhaust Valve Head Size: 1.81" Exhaust Valve Type: 1 piece forged 21-4N stainless, swirl polished heads, hardened tips. Exhaust Valve Locks 7 degree, single groove, chrome-moly steel, case hardened. Recommended for maximum .510" lift. Exhaust Valve Stem Size 11/32", undercut near valve head. Exhaust Valve Seals Type: Positive Locking type, maintains contact at all times with the valve and guide, reduced diameter compatible with most dual valve springs. Exhaust Valve Guide Type: .530" OD Manganese Bronze Valve Spring Type: Single with Damper. Recommended for maximum .600" lift. Valve Spring Closed (seat) Pressure: Approx. 130 pounds @ 1.875" installed height Valve Spring Open Pressure Approx. 330 pounds @ 1.275" (.600" lift.) Valve Spring Inner Diameter: 1.050" Valve Spring Maximum Lift: .600" Valve Spring Coil Bind Height: 1.130" Valve Spring Outer Diameter: 1.550" Valve Spring Free Height 2.400" Valve Spring Installed Height: 1.875" Valve Spring Wire Diameter: .202" Valve Spring Number of Coils: 5.5 Deck Thickness: .625" Chamber Volume: 80CC* Chamber Type: Closed (with quench surface) Weight (bare): 22 pounds Weight (assembled): 29 pounds Aluminum Type A-356 *Due to normal casting processes such as core shift, etc, all CC volumes listed are approximate and subject to normal variation.
 
im using a set of 906 heads, hardend seats blended and ported, stainless valves 3 angle, bronze guides, planed.. less than 3000 mi. on them on the 383 now. could just use those. but like the idea of them aluminum heads, 512 going in a 66 sport fury. serious street some strip. i know big car. got 3200 stall will be putting in 3:73s. like to be able to bump the compressin ratio w them aluminum jobbers, have 1.6 roller rockers, plan on installing hughs cam ect. (@.570 lift) forget the exact pn. ill have to look it up. thanks for the replys guys.
 
The lower end parts are good value. However they need to be carefully inspected and measured. IMO, unless you have the proper micrometers and have done it, have a trusted shop do this. The rods need to be cycled with the correct thread lube (because they are not finish machined iwth it). I have had 5 kits over a few years, various rods including the 505/512 kit's 7.100 rod, and I have yet to have a set of rods pass muster. They will also need the pin ends honed. You sould also have the assembly balanced by your shop, not Source.
The heads are also decent, but as the rods, have a couple weak points: You need to repalce the springs, retainers, and locks and the valve job needs to be checked. The valve job operations also need to be done with Edelbrock and Indy products so not a huge deal. The Stealths are a very close copy of RPMs, and on a 512" engine will run very well out of the box. But, they are smallish for that stroke.
 
At the risk of repeating whats already been said,
if you buy a kit from 440 source, have it CHECKED thoroughly by a performance Engine Machine Shop, moreso now imo, than even a year ago.

I've probably seen 10 kits or so brought into my shop by Customers in the last couple of years,
the 2 Kits I've seen so far this year, were both UTTER FAILURES, in terms of Machining Quality and Balancing.
Absolute GARBAGE that required not only regrinding the Crank, Re-Sizing the Rods, and Pin-fitting, but a complete Re-Balance as well ?
The only things OK were the ICON Pistons supplied in the Kits.(Pin-Fit good to go)

IMO,
440 source Kit quality has dropped DRAMATICALLY of late, be careful.

Some "cost-effective" Rotating assemblies they were ?
Thats 2 in a row so far this year.
J U N K !
 
Couldn't read it before :wink:

looks like they are basically a ported 452...
cylinder head technical specs:
intake port flow (at peak ~600 lift): 290cfm @ 28" of water ]intake port cc: 212cc* intake valve head size: 2.14" intake valve stem size: 11/32", undercut near valve head. intake valve guide type: .530" od manganese bronze intake valve seals type: positive locking type, maintains contact at all times with the valve and guide, reduced diameter compatible with most dual valve springs. intake valve type: 1 piece forged 21-4n stainless, swirl polished heads, hardened tips. intake valve locks 7 degree, single groove, chrome-moly steel, case hardened. Recommended for maximum .510" lift. exhaust port flow (at peak ~600 lift): 220cfm @ 28" of water exhaust port cc: 72cc* exhaust valve head size: 1.81" ]exhaust valve type: 1 piece forged 21-4n stainless, swirl polished heads, hardened tips. exhaust valve locks 7 degree, single groove, chrome-moly steel, case hardened. Recommended for maximum .510" lift. exhaust valve stem size 11/32", undercut near valve head. exhaust valve seals type: positive locking type, maintains contact at all times with the valve and guide, reduced diameter compatible with most dual valve springs. exhaust valve guide type: .530" od manganese bronze valve spring type: single with damper. Recommended for maximum .600" lift. valve spring closed (seat) pressure: approx. 130 pounds @ 1.875" installed height valve spring open pressure approx. 330 pounds @ 1.275" (.600" lift.) valve spring inner diameter: 1.050" valve spring maximum lift: .600" valve spring coil bind height: 1.130" valve spring outer diameter: 1.550" valve spring free height 2.400" valve spring installed height: 1.875" valve spring wire diameter: .202" valve spring number of coils: 5.5 deck thickness: .625" chamber volume: 80cc* chamber type: closed (with quench surface) weight (bare): 22 pounds weight (assembled): 29 pounds aluminum type a-356 *due to normal casting processes such as core shift, etc, all cc volumes listed are approximate and subject to normal variation.
 
went to pick up the block, brought the crank to have the clearence cheked and the mains were a little too loose! trying to locate some bearings to take up the slack, oh brother here we go...rods on the money. gonna have the balance checked, will keep posted.
 
Loose mains on stroker not good idea to make up with bearings, do it right, line bore and use correct parts, strokers are slinging a lot junk around and stress everything if not done correctly big boom. However when built right they can last a long time and make mad power your choice just my advice money spent now will save lots more later.
 
I'm running a 440 Source 512 bottom end, with Stealth heads. Running 10.41 at 127. Consistent as can be and no problems after about 75 runs on the combo.

Right now my ports are unported, OOTB. I plan on sending them in for CNC work so I can drop down to the 10.0s.
 
IMO,
440 source Kit quality has dropped DRAMATICALLY of late, be careful.

Some "cost-effective" Rotating assemblies they were ?
Thats 2 in a row so far this year.
J U N K !

Did you give Brandon a chance to make good on the deal before going through the expense of machining the crank?

I wasn't happy with the appearance of the casting on one of my rocker stands. He took it back and sent me another with no problem at all.
 
-
Back
Top