"596" Head Valve/Valve Spring Questions

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middleagecrisis

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I'm slowing putting together a 360 and am thinking about the valves, valve spring, retainers and locks on my stock (1.88/1.60 valves) 596 heads. I do have new Comp Cam 926-16 springs for the heads and plan to use them for either cam I end up choosing, lifts range between .450 - .490 with 1.5 rocker ratio. I'll also be using an aftermarket rocker and shaft assembly, so lift will be fairly accurate. Horsepower should be ~350-375. Buying aftermarket heads for >$1500 isn't in the budget, so unless it's going to be cost prohibitive to use these 596 heads, I'm not considering aftermarket heads. I've searched this forum and read almost every thread on these heads. So here are some of the knowns:
1. Some have got great results using the 1.88/1.60 valves in professionally prepped heads.
2. I will mill these heads enough, depending on current cc size, to get minimum 9-1/9.5-1 compression. Intake face will be milled accordingly.
3. Others on this board have said they used this 926-16 spring with stock retainers.
4. I've backyard ported many iron heads and will blend the bowls and port the runners to remove flow restrictions.
5. I will get a good 3 or 5 angle valve job for performance.
Questions:
1. Is it worth the expense to install 2.02/05 valves for this build level? Doing so will require me to buy single groove retainers and locks, plus the valves and machine work
2. Should I buy new factory style locks if I keep the factory valves/retainers? Does aftermarket make hardened locks for the stock valves?
3. Anybody done this combination? Results?
 
I'm slowing putting together a 360 and am thinking about the valves, valve spring, retainers and locks on my stock (1.88/1.60 valves) 596 heads. I do have new Comp Cam 926-16 springs for the heads and plan to use them for either cam I end up choosing, lifts range between .450 - .490 with 1.5 rocker ratio. I'll also be using an aftermarket rocker and shaft assembly, so lift will be fairly accurate. Horsepower should be ~350-375. Buying aftermarket heads for >$1500 isn't in the budget, so unless it's going to be cost prohibitive to use these 596 heads, I'm not considering aftermarket heads. I've searched this forum and read almost every thread on these heads. So here are some of the knowns:
1. Some have got great results using the 1.88/1.60 valves in professionally prepped heads.
2. I will mill these heads enough, depending on current cc size, to get minimum 9-1/9.5-1 compression. Intake face will be milled accordingly.
3. Others on this board have said they used this 926-16 spring with stock retainers.
4. I've backyard ported many iron heads and will blend the bowls and port the runners to remove flow restrictions.
5. I will get a good 3 or 5 angle valve job for performance.
Questions:
1. Is it worth the expense to install 2.02/05 valves for this build level? Doing so will require me to buy single groove retainers and locks, plus the valves and machine work
2. Should I buy new factory style locks if I keep the factory valves/retainers? Does aftermarket make hardened locks for the stock valves?
3. Anybody done this combination? Results?

I know Vic Bloomer’s Barracuda has run mid 9’s( in the 1/4) with 1.88 valved 596 heads. It’s a stock stroke 340.
So they obviously are capable of supporting healthy power.
 
My suggestion is to mock up the current valves, retainers, locks and check the installed height.
Typical factory height is a nominal 1.700”, which puts a 926 spring at about 150lbs.
On top of the high seat load, that spring has a rather high rate of 415 lbs/in…….. so the open load will also be rather high.
The 926 is designed for use at a nominal 1.800” installed height.
 
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Just asking, but why would you use those springs? They are outer springs for a dual spring setup. What is your expected spring height? If it's the stock 1.65, you will have very little room before coil bind. I'm not sure those springs are a good choice.
 
My suggestion is to mock up the current valves, retainers, locks and check the installed height.
Typical factory height is a nominal 1.700”, which puts a 926 spring at about 150lbs.
On top of the high seat load, that spring has a rather high rate of 415 lbs/in…….. so the open load will also be rather high.
The 926 is designed for use at a nominal 1.800” installed height.
I agree. I don't think those are his best choice.
 
My suggestion is to mock up the current valves, retainers, locks and check the installed height.
Typical factory height is a nominal 1.700”, which puts a 926 spring at about 150lbs.
On top of the high seat load, that spring has a rather high rate of 415 lbs/in…….. so the open load will also be rather high.
The 926 is designed for use at a nominal 1.800” installed height.
I picked them up new and unused for $40. Some posts were saying they were a good spring to use for the type cam I'd be running. No big deal if I can't/shouldn't use them. What's a good, inexpensive (not beehive) option considering retainers and lock constraints?
 
I picked them up new and unused for $40. Some posts were saying they were a good spring to use for the type cam I'd be running. No big deal if I can't/shouldn't use them. What's a good, inexpensive (not beehive) option considering retainers and lock constraints?
The Comp 901-16 would be just right.
 
What's a good, inexpensive (not beehive) option considering retainers and lock constraints?

In your opening post there was talk about different valves, etc.
Get all of that sorted out first, see what the available installed height is, and select a spring that fits the heads…… that’s suitable for what the cam is.
You don’t need springs until it’s time to assemble the heads.
 
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In your opening post there was talk about different valves, etc.
Get all of that sorted out first, see what the available installed height is, and select a spring that fits the heads…… that’s suitable for what the cam is.
You don’t need springs that until it’s time to assemble the heads.
The springs are the direction people took when replying. I'm not going to spend $400-500 to get the heads prepped for 2.02 valves, so I can figure out what springs to get, only to find out that I just bought an extra 10 horsepower and didn't need to go that route for my power level. Kind of putting the cart before the horse, don't you think?
 
At your power level with the 596 heads the 2.02 valves would be no
real advantage over 1.88. We have done extensive testing on our
Stock Eliminator cars over the years at even much higher power levels.

My .02 = For Free
 
The springs are the direction people took when replying. I'm not going to spend $400-500 to get the heads prepped for 2.02 valves, so I can figure out what springs to get, only to find out that I just bought an extra 10 horsepower and didn't need to go that route for my power level. Kind of putting the cart before the horse, don't you think?

I think you missed the point of my post, which was……
Figure out what you’re going to use for valves, retainers, etc(whatever that may be), check your installed heights, buy springs to suit.

That’s how I’ve been doing it for 35 years.
 
I think you missed the point of my post, which was……
Figure out what you’re going to use for valves, retainers, etc(whatever that may be), check your installed heights, buy springs to suit.

That’s how I’ve been doing it for 35 years.
I did, sorry. Thanks for the input
 
JMO on valve size. If the intake valves are trashed, then go ahead and get a fresh cut on the 2.02's because buying valves is required. Won't hurt and you have to replace valves anyways. If the 1.88's are good, leave them as long as the seats aren't sunk. Sticking with the low buck route.

Valve spring selection is near the end of the process, as PRH mentioned, based on available spring height limitations. With the lift you have listed and sbm crappy valve train angles and BS rocker ratios if using stock pieces, the 901 style spring would likely fit the bill. There are a bunch of suppliers that have the same springs in their catalogs. Trickflow used to have the same comp 901-16 for about $10 less. Not sure about now.
 
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