I’m really hoping it’s not the dam pilot bushing. I don’t know why but putting back the the second time was a pain in the buttWhy I asked if you could start it IN gear and clutch IN ! Disc is backwards, or the pilot bushing is jammed on the input shaft.
Well, I'd adjust the rod until there is -0- freeplay, then try it. If it's still no good, You're going to have to yank it, that's all there is to it...then some pics please.But I double check it and my mechanic even checked it before and after I installed it and said it was good.
The offset spring-hub assy. goes towards the rear of the car, into the pressure-plate recess, NOT towards the flywheel recess & crank bolts.Would any one have a picture of the disk put on correctly ?
I can take a few pictures tomorrow morning and post on here if it helps
Yes, flat part towards the flywheel. The hub towards the transmission. You should be able to see it through the inspection hole.The offset spring-hub assy. goes towards the rear of the car, into the pressure-plate recess, NOT towards the flywheel recess & crank bolts.
Yeah that how I installed itYes, flat part towards the flywheel. The hub towards the transmission.
Sweet thanks for the pics but I’m 100% sure I installed that way
Ok will doWell, I'd adjust the rod until there is -0- freeplay, then try it. If it's still no good, You're going to have to yank it, that's all there is to it...then some pics please.
I’ll try tomorrow to roll it and see what happens if not I’ll have to take it back apart and I’ll put pics up tomorrow as wellPut the trans in neutral. Parking brake off. Can you roll it? If not, you've got it jammed in two gears. Either your shifter/linkage is installed incorrectly (flipped levers, etc.) or the shift forks (internal, you'll have to open it up) aren't in there right and you're partly engaged in two gears at once.
Also, is this the original engine & transmission combination? if it's not the original engine, the counterbore in the crank may not be deep enough. Even though you said you put in a new pilot bearing (you said it went in tough), it may not have been finish machined to final dimensions- depth or diameter. If it is the original engine and not a replacement, I would suspect an incorrect pilot bearing. Too large of an O.D. being forced into the crank would cause it to compress, binding the input shaft. Parts listings (and the parts themselves) are sadly not that accurate anymore.
My two cents.
Yes original engine and transmissionPut the trans in neutral. Parking brake off. Can you roll it? If not, you've got it jammed in two gears. Either your shifter/linkage is installed incorrectly (flipped levers, etc.) or the shift forks (internal, you'll have to open it up) aren't in there right and you're partly engaged in two gears at once.
Also, is this the original engine & transmission combination? if it's not the original engine, the counterbore in the crank may not be deep enough. Even though you said you put in a new pilot bearing (you said it went in tough), it may not have been finish machined to final dimensions- depth or diameter. If it is the original engine and not a replacement, I would suspect an incorrect pilot bearing. Too large of an O.D. being forced into the crank would cause it to compress, binding the input shaft. Parts listings (and the parts themselves) are sadly not that accurate anymore.
My two cents.
How was the bushing installed and checked for clearance for the .750" input shaft?I’m really hoping it’s not the dam pilot bushing.
I don’t know why but putting back the the second time was a pain in the butt
That's a grat idea.I am thinking that you may have damaged the clutch disc. After you take it apart, look closely at the disc, hub would look off. If you had the trans partially in and your arms were tired and you let the trans hang, you may have damaged the disc. Get 2 bolts about 2" long, same size as your trans to bell bolts and cut the heads off. Put these 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes as guides when you reinstall the trans. If and when your arms get tired, they will support the trans. Cut a slot across the cut off end with a hack saw or air cut off, if they come out hard you can use a screwdriver to back them out.
Good luck
I do that with everything I install and was taught that in High School auto shop back in the early 80`s. Usually every time I do it around someone new they are amazed how well it works.That's a grat idea.
Do you mean I might have damaged it when I was installing it ?I am thinking that you may have damaged the clutch disc. After you take it apart, look closely at the disc, hub would look off. If you had the trans partially in and your arms were tired and you let the trans hang, you may have damaged the disc. Get 2 bolts about 2" long, same size as your trans to bell bolts and cut the heads off. Put these 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes as guides when you reinstall the trans. If and when your arms get tired, they will support the trans. Cut a slot across the cut off end with a hack saw or air cut off, if they come out hard you can use a screwdriver to back them out.
Good luck
I had it on my trans jack so I would let it rest on the trans jackWell, It's a possibility. Your going to have to take the trans back out, and take a close look at your clutch assy, remove it and look for the issue. Oh, when you installed your Trans, did your arms get tired, you stopped to rest, did you leave the trans half stuck in? If so, the weight of the trans was probably hanging on the clutch disc. That is a guess on my part, but you have to start looking.
But the flat is towards the fly wheel and the lifted side is facing the transLooks backwards to me. It's gotta come out anyway.
That's not what I'm seeing, but ok. Like I said, it's gotta come out.But the flat is towards the fly wheel and the lifted side is facing the trans