64 dart with 4 speed with o/d clutch linkage question

Manual Transmission & Clutch Discussions

  1. Early a body

    Early a body Well-Known Member

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    Hi everyone,

    Put a od in a 64 dart has a 318 . The threaded cluch fork adjuster is in a funny angle. Not alighned with the clutch fork. i posted another question on here earlier but now have it all back in the car . I installed the od about 10 years ago and the z bar lenghened to make the clutch adjuster rod line up better with the fork. However this created a crazy hard pedal. So i took all the components from the bellhousing to fork from an old od setup I had installed in a 64 barracuda that alighned better and had a much better clutch pedal to press.

    My question is the alighnment too far off between the z bar and the clutch fork?. The pedal pressure is great, I have not driven it yet but i am thinking i may not be able to get the car into gear with the alighnment being so far off. Everything up top is perfectly alighned. I am not sure why a 64 barracuda and a 64 dart have such a difference. Must be body height or something.

    clutch.JPG
     
  2. Slantsix64

    Slantsix64 Well-Known Member

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    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Early a body

      Early a body Well-Known Member

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      Thanks,

      i have the bellhousing bracket, but it did nt alighn properly with the ball
      I have the plate that goes to the bellhousing, it was way off (moved to far to the rear of the car) so I used the 67 a body style on the bellhousing. , I can’t change to Brewers clutch fork bracket because the holes on the OD bellhousing for the fork bracket are in a different location than a non od bellhousing. There z bar, which I have used in the past is the same length from the tube down to the ground as the z bar I have, the difference is they moved the lever closer to the bellhousing
       
    • Slantsix64

      Slantsix64 Well-Known Member

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      so let me see your using the later aluminum 10.5 flywheel bell housing correct?
       
    • Early a body

      Early a body Well-Known Member

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      Yeah I am using the OD bellhousing, I just called Brewers they said I am basically out of luck, I guess I will have to use the longer z bar and just have one leg more muscular than the other.
       
    • Slantsix64

      Slantsix64 Well-Known Member

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      Hm maybe you can convert to hydraulic style pedal?
       
    • trapster

      trapster Well-Known Member

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      I have a 340 with a iron 833 OD with a center force clutch in my 64 dart, I called brewers and they sent me a different fork pivot and Zbar. Seems to work fine except it hits my headers at the top.

      Petal pressure is minimal and I removed the clutch return spring.
       
    • Early a body

      Early a body Well-Known Member

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      Do you happen to have photos of what this looks like on your car?

      Thanks
       
    • trapster

      trapster Well-Known Member

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      Here you go. Sorry for the delay.

      20200725_190105.jpg

      20200725_190246.jpg
       
    • Cruze426

      Cruze426 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      From the first picture, the stud from your z bar and clutch fork tip should be parallel. Otherwise, when you push your clutch in you are trying to twist the fork on the pivot.
      It's geometry is just bad, makes it difficult.
      Sounds like this set up is one where you just have to do what you gotta do. For the fellow that gave you pictures of his set up, it could use some correction too, but if it works and he is happy, it is what it is. Just my opinion.
      Good luck!
       
    • trapster

      trapster Well-Known Member

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      What I have is working and all of the parts are what was suggested by and bought from Brewers. I am using a centerforce clutch and pedal pressure is great. The Z-Bar does need to be bent because it is hitting the headers and it is at an odd angle. If I could get it out without pulling the engine I would fix it.
       
    • AJ/FormS

      AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s

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      Your pedal is/was hard for several reasons; Principally; your fork looks to be too short, but secondary is that you are likely running a 6-cyl pedal set-up with the 6-cylinder pedal ratio(*1).
      Furthermore;
      Everyone says that with the CF PP you have to remove the overcenter spring. The reason for this is to prevent the pedal from staying on the floor during hi-rpm shifts.
      But I have found that on a system like yours, you have lots of pedal departure and do not need to push the pedal to the floor! So, It might be possible for you to re-install the big spring, shorten up your freeplay, and put a block or pedal-stopper under the clutch pedal, to get the ease of engagement you require. But you will need to stay on top of the freeplay setting.

      IMO the longer fork would the first step. Since when you push on the pedal, the fork will be traveling away from the pipe, I think just a lil dent in the pipe will be clearance enough. This would simultaneously get rid of the zig-zag, but you would then need a new straight adjuster.
      But I would also put a longer lever on the torque tube to get proper, parallel to the ground, push on the fork. That might get you enough clearance on the pipe.
      The arm on the downrod can also be lengthened, so long as it's vertical travel remains in the window. By lengthening both of them,a like amount, the pedal ratio is maintained.
      Together with re-engineering the pedal ratio, you might get it all working without the over-center spring.

      *1
      There are actually two pedal ratios; one for the 9.5" clutch, and another for everything else.
      Yeah, the zig-zag around the pipe looks bad and the angle down to the fork is bad, but if you lengthen the arm, it will for-sure take more effort to push the clutch. So then, you would for-sure want the V8 pedal ratio.
      You can modify your 6 ratio to V8 status by taking the pedal down, cutting the arm and patching it about .600 longer IIRC. There are how-to threads on Fabo.

      You can get the Z-bar out of there by popping the horseshoe clip wire out of the holes in the tube, and sliding the tube over to one side. If you have to,you can remove the frame-end ball-bracket. Of course everything will need to be disconnected from it first,lol.
      Reassembling it will be tricky tho.
       
      Last edited: Jul 27, 2020
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