tw7912
Well-Known Member
’66 Plymouth Barracuda, BH29D62584803, located in Burleson TX 76028. This fish has been in a slow gentle restoration for over 10 years and is 95% complete. Runs, drives, stops and the radio works! Originally it was an AC car, when I got it the compressor, dryer and hoses had been removed – everything else is still there. This car was to have gone to my son in the Alaska Air National Guard, but as we all know, life changes.
It will be sold for a very reasonable price and will make someone a great 60’s A body you can pass to your kids. I’m not into charging above market prices and I know it’s not a Formula S, but am offering it to someone who recognizes what they’re getting and will either finish the little that remains, drive it and have fun - or both.
Body – the ‘66 is a one year only body, and with one exception it is/was essentially rust free. The front passenger floorboard was rusted so we cut it out and replaced it with a matching section from an AMD panel. The quarters are clean and solid, the fenders the same way. The doors had some inside rust in the front corners that were cleaned, treated and painted. All undercoat, except in the rear wheelhouses, was removed and the floor pan/support structure treated and then coated with POR15 black. I started this project by finding a rust-free straight body car and it still is. All of the exterior chrome is NOS new or re-plated, the stainless has been polished – could use another polish but looks good as is. The front and rear window gasket chrome inserts are new, correct and look good. The paint is a 15-footer, 10-15 yrs old. It is a very pretty midnight blue. The car had endured a Texas hailstorm before we got it and had some dimples on the hood, top and trunk. The hood has been repaired and painted, the top and trunk lid still need doing. The hail marks are not bad and are not visible unless you’re standing next to it. Still, they should be fixed. I’m not good at body and paint and lost my access to a good shop a few months ago. All of the glass is good and appears to be original. Window tinting was applied before I got it so I left it on. (it does help in Texas!). It can be easily removed should you so desire.
Interior – Original headliner, visors, door panels and seat covers. All in great shape. All new carpet front to back -sound deadener was used under the cabin carpet. Center console is good, it is blue, from the factory, to match the interior. All chrome, metal and plastic replated or replaced as needed. The dash is good, all gages work, it is the one area that we didn’t touch or remove from the car. Heater core was removed, rebuilt and replaced – it has the AC blower and condenser still installed in great shape. The dash pad has splits in the plastic at the center area. I have been told that there are folks who can repair this type of problem. It isn’t that bad (see pix) but this is a full disclosure listing. New correct seatbelts in front, originals in the rear.
Drivetrain – Original 273 2Bbl, 904 TF and 7 ¼ differential. Power Steering. The motor had been recently rebuilt (we were told) when we got it but we pulled it and went through it anyway. It appears to be original, .020 over, 8.5 compression (flat top pistons). We had the crank polished, put new bearings in and replaced the cam with a small Comp Cam that was close to the specs (250H) for the 4 barrel Commando motor. Original cam and lifters go with it. Also has a new Comp Cam double roller chain. The heads were cleaned, new seals etc. I located a factory 4 barrel intake correct for the year, tanked, cleaned, painted and installed it with a Edelbrock 1405, 500 cfm carb. I couldn’t find an original AFB I could afford. The carb has been a small pain, it tends to drain the fuel out if it sits for a week or so. I have gone through it with no luck. However, once it gets fuel it starts and runs great. It is electric choke but I have not wired it up – don’t need it in TX. It has a new complete engine and fwd lights wiring harness. The motor has original Commando valve covers and Air cleaner. I have chromed some additional things in the engine compartment (oil pan, pullies, brackets, etc). What can I say? I like chrome. Old school proud. The exhaust is a complete repop original Commando aluminized 2 into 1 with resonator and chrome tip – it sounds and breathes great. The 904 was rebuilt to original specs by an old time Mopar legend here in the DFW area named Les Adams. It shifts smooth and cleanly – not hard, not soft. U-Joints are new. The differential has been cleaned and resealed and appears to be fine. The brakes are all new 10” drums, shoes and fasteners. Shocks are all new, correct black color. The wheels are Mopar Rallyes, (5x4) cleaned painted and polished. The car retains the original left side/right side wheel lugs. I installed air shocks on the rear to give some adjustment. The tires are Dunlop SP60’s, 19570R14 BW.
Here’s the short summary of what you may want to finish:
Dash Pad cracks, rebuild or replace Edelbrock carb to stop the fuel leak down, roof and trunk dents
Here’s a short list (I’m still getting stuff together) of the extras that will come with the car on a full price purchase:
Complete dash instrument panel, right front grill, manuals, complete new front brake lines and master cylinder to convert to dual brakes or eventually discs. Extra radio (condition unknown).
The car has a clear Texas title in my name. We will do a bill of sale and the Antique License Plate will go with the car if TX lets me.
The car is insured for 16k. The price for all is $13,800 picked up in Burleson, TX 76028. I will do all I can to assist in shipment from this end. PM me with your contact info and I will be glad to answer all questions and send more pix.
It will be sold for a very reasonable price and will make someone a great 60’s A body you can pass to your kids. I’m not into charging above market prices and I know it’s not a Formula S, but am offering it to someone who recognizes what they’re getting and will either finish the little that remains, drive it and have fun - or both.
Body – the ‘66 is a one year only body, and with one exception it is/was essentially rust free. The front passenger floorboard was rusted so we cut it out and replaced it with a matching section from an AMD panel. The quarters are clean and solid, the fenders the same way. The doors had some inside rust in the front corners that were cleaned, treated and painted. All undercoat, except in the rear wheelhouses, was removed and the floor pan/support structure treated and then coated with POR15 black. I started this project by finding a rust-free straight body car and it still is. All of the exterior chrome is NOS new or re-plated, the stainless has been polished – could use another polish but looks good as is. The front and rear window gasket chrome inserts are new, correct and look good. The paint is a 15-footer, 10-15 yrs old. It is a very pretty midnight blue. The car had endured a Texas hailstorm before we got it and had some dimples on the hood, top and trunk. The hood has been repaired and painted, the top and trunk lid still need doing. The hail marks are not bad and are not visible unless you’re standing next to it. Still, they should be fixed. I’m not good at body and paint and lost my access to a good shop a few months ago. All of the glass is good and appears to be original. Window tinting was applied before I got it so I left it on. (it does help in Texas!). It can be easily removed should you so desire.
Interior – Original headliner, visors, door panels and seat covers. All in great shape. All new carpet front to back -sound deadener was used under the cabin carpet. Center console is good, it is blue, from the factory, to match the interior. All chrome, metal and plastic replated or replaced as needed. The dash is good, all gages work, it is the one area that we didn’t touch or remove from the car. Heater core was removed, rebuilt and replaced – it has the AC blower and condenser still installed in great shape. The dash pad has splits in the plastic at the center area. I have been told that there are folks who can repair this type of problem. It isn’t that bad (see pix) but this is a full disclosure listing. New correct seatbelts in front, originals in the rear.
Drivetrain – Original 273 2Bbl, 904 TF and 7 ¼ differential. Power Steering. The motor had been recently rebuilt (we were told) when we got it but we pulled it and went through it anyway. It appears to be original, .020 over, 8.5 compression (flat top pistons). We had the crank polished, put new bearings in and replaced the cam with a small Comp Cam that was close to the specs (250H) for the 4 barrel Commando motor. Original cam and lifters go with it. Also has a new Comp Cam double roller chain. The heads were cleaned, new seals etc. I located a factory 4 barrel intake correct for the year, tanked, cleaned, painted and installed it with a Edelbrock 1405, 500 cfm carb. I couldn’t find an original AFB I could afford. The carb has been a small pain, it tends to drain the fuel out if it sits for a week or so. I have gone through it with no luck. However, once it gets fuel it starts and runs great. It is electric choke but I have not wired it up – don’t need it in TX. It has a new complete engine and fwd lights wiring harness. The motor has original Commando valve covers and Air cleaner. I have chromed some additional things in the engine compartment (oil pan, pullies, brackets, etc). What can I say? I like chrome. Old school proud. The exhaust is a complete repop original Commando aluminized 2 into 1 with resonator and chrome tip – it sounds and breathes great. The 904 was rebuilt to original specs by an old time Mopar legend here in the DFW area named Les Adams. It shifts smooth and cleanly – not hard, not soft. U-Joints are new. The differential has been cleaned and resealed and appears to be fine. The brakes are all new 10” drums, shoes and fasteners. Shocks are all new, correct black color. The wheels are Mopar Rallyes, (5x4) cleaned painted and polished. The car retains the original left side/right side wheel lugs. I installed air shocks on the rear to give some adjustment. The tires are Dunlop SP60’s, 19570R14 BW.
Here’s the short summary of what you may want to finish:
Dash Pad cracks, rebuild or replace Edelbrock carb to stop the fuel leak down, roof and trunk dents
Here’s a short list (I’m still getting stuff together) of the extras that will come with the car on a full price purchase:
Complete dash instrument panel, right front grill, manuals, complete new front brake lines and master cylinder to convert to dual brakes or eventually discs. Extra radio (condition unknown).
The car has a clear Texas title in my name. We will do a bill of sale and the Antique License Plate will go with the car if TX lets me.
The car is insured for 16k. The price for all is $13,800 picked up in Burleson, TX 76028. I will do all I can to assist in shipment from this end. PM me with your contact info and I will be glad to answer all questions and send more pix.
