66 valiant gauges

[elvaliant66]

so my gasoline and temperature gauges went out.does anyone know what to check for? i checked the instrument fuse already and replaced it but it didnt help.i noticed theres this condenser looking thing in the back of the gauge cluster right under the temperature gauge. could the problem be that?

 

[memike]

Looking to see what we can learn together if this happens to me elvalaint66
To the top looking for a tech, I will do some searching :thumblef:

 

[67Dart273]

I BELIEVE your gauge cluster still has the instrument regulator built into the fuel gauge. If the fuel gauge has THREE terminals that's what you have

The "condenser thing" is a radio suppression cap

Here's how all Mopar gauges work, and you need to think of them like a "system"

The ignition switch sends power to the cluster harness connector, which supplies power to various things depending on the year/ model

Brake warning switch, oil warning lamp, etc, and the INSTRUMENT VOLTAGE LIMITER, or called by other names.

This is either a rectangular box about 3/4" X 2" long, or it's built into the fuel gauge.

This receives 12V switched ignition from the panel harness connector, and regulates power to the gauges "to simulate" about 5 volts. I say this because the originals work exactly like a flasher---they pulse 12V on/ off and these pulses do not show in the gauges because the gauges don't react that fast.

So this limiter power comes OUT of the limiter and jumpers over to the temp gauge and the oil gauge if you have one.

On cars with a "plug in" limiter you need to check that the limiter is good and that the PC board connector is making contact (later models)

The power goes to the gauge studs---and so you must make sure the studs make contact

Out of the sender end of the gauges, the sender wires go back through the cluster connector and off to the senders and to ground

QUICK CHECK

Disconnect the temp and fuel senders and clip them to ground. Turn the key on for a short time and watch the gauges. If neither gauge reacts, it's most likely the limiter.

There "are people" who repair these, and if you Google around, there's a repair procedure

RTE also sells replacement solid state limiters

http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_Limiter_Faq

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/interior/23241_instrument_gauges_repair/viewall.html

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-instrument-voltage-regulator64.html

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=86097

 

[bcschief]

The 66 american valiant has the IVR on the back of the gauge cluster pull the instrument cluster and there is a rectangular box that plugs into the board on the back. I highly recommend you buy an electronic one to replace the original one. (search on ebay for instrument voltage regulator) It is also possible you burned out the gauges buy having the IVR fail if they don't work after you replace the IVR test by shorting the sender wires to ground (very briefly) and see if the gauge moves toward the full or hot .


Brian

 

[67Dart273]

The 66 american valiant has the IVR on the back of the gauge cluster Brian

It seems you are correct. Found this on th' bay, say for 66 Val

Check that the pins on your harness connector are not loose/ broken, and that the three contacts at below left, where the regulator plugs in are making connection with the board. I had to solder jumpers across on mine.

 

[elvaliant66]

when i turn my ignition switch on my temperature gauge disappears to the cold side and my fuel gauge goes to full. and when its off the temperature goes to hot and the gasoline goes to empty..if my gauges were truly fried would they even move like they do?

 

[elvaliant66]

bump

 

[EvilTuna66]

Hey thanks everyone, this has been really helpful. Not to hijack, but I have a '64 Signet 200 hardtop that uses the fuel gauge as a limiter and I wasnt sure exactly what I could do about getting my gauges working. My '65 4-door used the external regulator (and the more common key for the lock on the trunk) so this may have been the year for some changes?

 

[EvilTuna66]

when i turn my ignition switch on my temperature gauge disappears to the cold side and my fuel gauge goes to full. and when its off the temperature goes to hot and the gasoline goes to empty..if my gauges were truly fried would they even move like they do?

If they're still moving, they should be saveable I'm thinking. My '65 had gauges that were fried beyond the shadow of a doubt, like charred on the inside and wouldnt move at all. I replaced them and did the solid state mod and they worked great. It sounds like a limiter problem. Are you saying the temp gauge reads hot when the ignition is in the off position? Or just when the motor is off?

 

[67Dart273]

Hey thanks everyone, this has been really helpful. Not to hijack, but I have a '64 Signet 200 hardtop that uses the fuel gauge as a limiter and I wasnt sure exactly what I could do about getting my gauges working. My '65 4-door used the external regulator (and the more common key for the lock on the trunk) so this may have been the year for some changes?

To be clear, the fuel gauge "is not used" as a limiter. It's simply that the limiter is mounted INSIDE the fuel gauge. You can easily convert to an external one if it goes bad.

 

[EvilTuna66]

To be clear, the fuel gauge "is not used" as a limiter. It's simply that the limiter is mounted INSIDE the fuel gauge. You can easily convert to an external one if it goes bad.

Yeah, probably could have worded that better. I'm gonna see whats going on with my gauge next time I have the cluster out. Thanks again everyone.