66 Valiant slant six radiator upgrade/swap

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halfafish

Damn those rabbits, and their holes!
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My Valiant was a dead stock slant six/three on the tree when I bought it. When I brought it home, the first thing I did was change all the fluids and work on fixing leaks. Of which there were many.

I had my shop work on all the items that needed a lift to get underneath the car. They said they couldn't back flush the radiator because it had a split seam, so I replaced it with an aluminum model. I'm including the info here, in case anyone else would like to do this upgrade without the hassle of figuring out which parts will work.

Here's a photo of the original configuration.

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The new radiator is a model CC2374B from Champion Radiators. I got this one because their standard model for the /6 has the lower hose fitting on the driver's side. My original was on the passenger side, so the tech at Champion suggested this model instead. This was a good call.

The new radiator fit OK, but I did have to drill my own mounting holes in the flanges, as the stock ones must be set for whatever this is supposed to fit. After about 50 test fits, I had it bolted down properly.

The biggest challenge was finding new hoses to hook it all up. The original setup had 1-1/2" hoses at all points. The new radiator had a 1-1/2" upper hose fitting, but a 1/3-4 lower hose fitting. I was looking at having to use a universal flex hose setup with an adapter for the 1-3/4" fitting. Hardly my first choice, as I prefer formed hoses when possible.

So, first of all let's give a shout-out to Frank at the local NAPA store, who let me cruise through the rack of about 500 hoses in the back room, looking for anything that would fit. And, like the blind pig that finds an acorn once in a while, I found two hoses that fit. The upper is a NAPA part# 8631, and the lower is a NAPA part# 8943. The lower hose is particularly impressive, because it's the right shape to clear the fan belt and it's also 1- 3/4" on the lower end, and 1-1/2 on the upper end. Neither one of these is even vaguely correct for my car. But when you whack off the excess length, it leaves a perfect fit for the new radiator. Here are a couple of photos of the finished product. Is it show quality? Not hardly. But it's a decent bit of work for this hacker.

Photos of the install, and the finished product.

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Clearance for the stock fan blade is really tight, but it works if you have small hands to get the bolts installed.
 
Thank you I've been looking for a lower hose for my 63 dart. I've got a champion rad also and the hose I found rubs on the strut rod . I'm gonna give this a shot.
 
1963dartgt,
One thing I would add, if you check out the last photo, you will notice the lower hose end was chopped off a bit to fit. It turns out this was not necessary, but when I was test fitting I thought it was too long. You can leave the lower 1-3/4 hose end alone and it will fit fine. Once I shortened the upper hose end, I greased up both fittings and hose ends to help get things in place. I installed the water pump end first, then lowered the radiator in place and secured it. Then I worked the lower hose end on the radiator fitting. That last photo also shows a corrugated protective sleeve that I cut down and left in place, as this is a pretty tight fit. I figured it couldn't hurt, and it came as part of the hose from NAPA.
 
Nice your gonna love the radiator . I took a 100 mile round trip in 110 degree California weather with no problems.
 
Thanks, very helpful. A split upper seam is an endemic problem w/ the early round-top radiators. One shop said they solder in an internal brace to avoid that. The later square-top ones work better, but don't look correct.

Slants don't leave much room. Note how they recessed the water pump in the block and put a pulley groove in the damper to squeeze them into an early A. You have a thick radiator, but still ample room. If you have 3", the thin fan-clutch for my 1985 M-B 300D should fit. In my 64 Valiant, I have just 2.5" so could barely fit a nylon flex fan, leaving ~3/4" to the radiator. When I bought it, it had no fan, just an electric pusher (M-B) rigged to run all the time directly off IGN (yep, melted the key switch), w/ 2-core radiator from "not a Mopar".
 
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Thanks for the great info. Sorry if this is a silly question, but do I need to have an overflow tank too for this radiator? And is there anything special about the transmission line nipples? Were you able to use the old ones?
Thanks!
 
Not a silly question, as there are none of those. We all learn stuff about these cars by asking questions. No, an overflow tank is not required. My stock radiator had no tank, just an overflow tube that dripped on the ground as needed. I added the tank partly because I think it looks cool, partly because I didn't want to puke antifreeze on the shop floor, and partly because I have dogs - antifreeze is toxic to dogs and I didn't want to chance making one of them sick.

My car is a 3-speed, so I had no cause to mess with the tranny cooler at all. As far as I know, the fittings are standard.
 
Thanks halfafish and also IdahoCarson for posting the link to this thread.:thumbsup:
 
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