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67/68/69 cuda dilemma

  1. Hi y'all,

    i know this is a lengthy post but here goes. I have recently bought a half stripped 69 barracuda notchback from Dartos up in Wichita Falls Tx on Fabo for some parts for my 67 cuda restification. i do have a Vin, and a bill of sale, and getting a title is no problem where i live, as i have done this countless times before.

    my wife likes the fact that i love restoring old muscle cars. she calls me the ultimate recycler. anyway when we first met she didnt know what a barracuda was, or a road runner for that matter. she did know and like the 70 chevelle SS, and 69 camaro SS, but these are more well known. i told her when i am done with my 67 i would like to build up a nice car for her. i have been looking at 69 camaros, and 70/71 chevelles and since these are iconic in their own way they are pretty pricey even for a basket case, so i presented her with the idea of refurbishing the 69 cuda shell for her to drive once i am done with my 67.

    Georga likes that idea, she likes the shape of the 67-69 notchback says it reminds her of a camaro in a way, plus i am only into a rolling shell minus interior, driveline, grilles, and fenders for only $300. its basically a clean slate, and can be built how she wants it to be. i told her we for drivability and cost we should probably install a 360 magnum and AOD from a wrecked late model dodge pickup, or ram van since i can get thes at my local police auction cheap and use a fast EFI on an edelbrock intake for drivability, mebbe use a ford 8.8 rear from a ranger pickup, since the bolt pattern is the same as a mopar, and the gears and a limited slip are easier to find, or use an 8.25 rear axle out of a chrysler fifth ave or jeep cherokee, and i have most of the pieces parts lying around to add stock power discs and power steering. aftermarket A/C with a Sanyo compressor will likely round it all out along with smoothing out the firewall.

    so heres the dilemma. the 69 nose sheetmetal is missing and the tail lamps and housings are shot. the center trunk panel for the 69 is long gone. i will probably spring for a set of fiberglass fenders and upper header and lower valance from stinger fiberglass that solves this part of the dilemma. tho it would have been nicer to have the steel ones that were on the car, but this would have added to the price i payed for the car, so i really cant complain. i have a spare hood that is 67/68 vintage that came with the parts car minus its pot metal inserts. i can use this hood but will mean using a 67/68 header panel, and grilles. i also have a nice used set of 67 taillamps and housings, along with center tail panel trim, and a good used pair of 67 reverse lights and bezels. i have a set of bumpers that are straight but need rechroming, we may paint these body color. i have the trim pieces if she wants a vinyl top, and since the back window trim is already gone off the car, i can buy a new rear window gasket from steele rubber that has a black locking strip to go with a black vinyl top making the roofline a bit formal. plus i have a box of clip nuts and body bolts and hardware from the old 74 dart 4 door i stripped for parts on my project.

    i like the idea of using the pieces we already have that are not going on my car, or are castoffs from my car but are in good condition for a driver. since this car is really nothing special like a big block car or formula S i dont think there is any point in trying to make it original. i figure we can keep the 69 side marker reflectors, use the 67 taillamps and trim, use a 67/68 hood, and since i have a spare set of grilles from a 67 we may be able to find another set of these to make a good set, or find a set of 68 grilles making the car a 67/68/69.

    she wants to pick the body color, upholstery, i showed her speedhuts line of gages, and said we can make a custom sheetmetal panel, since all i have is an empty dash frame and she can design her own gages. i said we can look at rims, and steering wheels and floor shifters too. this was originally a console car, but the only thing left is the front bracket. Georga likes the idea of carpet and bucket seats and no console, so an aftermarket automatic floor shifter is in order. we will be looking at these as well.

    this car was an ex race car, and has a spring relocation kit done to it, but has hacked in aluminum wheel tubs, and cut some sections of the trunk floor beyond where the stock inner fenders are supposed to be. those have to go. we may keep it narrowed in the back, but i will have to get some stock inner and outer wheel houses from an old duster as these are the same stampings as the cuda, and widen and install them. i will have to hang rear quarter skins on it as well. it already has sub frame connectors. these are 2x2 box steel, they look to be installed ok, i will look at them a bit more once the shell is on a rotisserie. this may be a few years as i got to finish my car first, but it allows us time to collect up parts for it.

    i think we got a good plan for this car, tho when she saw the pix she was like OMG you spent $300 on that. my response was at first i laughed, and said it was much cheaper than $3000 on a basket case camaro or chevelle, and i have some of the pieces its missing, putting us ahead of the game, tho i am starting with something in worse shape than what i have seen some people on here part out.

    below is the pix of our new addition. it looks rough from somebody sanding most of the paint offand it getting surface rust, but not bad once you DA it to bare metal, and primer it. also at this moment i am not looking to sell anything off it like the SBP rallyes, or manual steering box, when i start rebuilding it, i will reassess whats coming off, and probably list the parts here.

    what do y'all think? should we keep the body as a 69 only and try to find those unique pieces to keep it looking as a 69, or use what we have to make the back as a 67, the sides as a 69, and the grilles as a 67 or 68 ?


  2. I vote for putting it together with whatever is in easy reach and later as time goes on you can replace parts and pieces with either correct year or ones you prefer.

    I have a dart that I am currently doing the same thing....you know you are over the edge when you can actually build a whole car with remnant parts you have on hand. This dart is being built strictly with what I have and that is almost the whole car LOL.

    I cant say that I am a fan of fiberglass especially on the street.....but I know why you would do that. Surely some steel ones will pop up somewhere and probably be worth the money.

    SO its all about doing what seems cool at the time. Everything you have in mind is reversible and you are not going to make the car any worse off.

    You are really ambitious to do this but the reward will be sweetness. Why do something that is going to be easy....where is the fun.
  3. hi Ranigirl,

    if the 69 ,fenders pop up before or during this project, we may go that route depending on condition and cost. a fiberglass header , and valance are not too terribly expensive so this route isnt too bad. car came as an automatic so the floor is correct, and it has an automatic brake pedal. i had a nice 74 dart hood i sold that would have been correct for a 69 cuda but we think the 67/68 we got with the parts car looks better because its got the chrome inserts. plus we have it to use. ditto for a aet of 67 taillamps which are somewhat similar to a 69. i like the 69 side reflectors better than the 68 round side lights. These besels and reflectors were included in a box of parts along with front bumper brackets. i will have to get a set of rear bumper brackets. plus i have 2 good bumpers. i will be buying new chrome ones for my car. lots of possibilities, its a clean slate. the P.O. sold the V8 k frame to somebody, so i will have to remove it and get it back to him. no biggie. the K frame buyer has a slanty k frame i said i would like in return. i have a spool mount K for my car, and will cut the slanty mounts off the K i am getting, and i eill fab up a set of spool mounts using my k frame as a blueprint, and mod the 68/69 slanty K for 73 up V8 mounts.
  4. well i guess this is no longer a dilemma for me based on what my wife posted on faceplant. it was a a pic of jackie chan with a bewildered look saying "say what," along with a caption above it saying

    " the look you get on your face when the 1969 barracuda parts car your husband bought for parts, he wants you to drive.

    well needless to say i hate facebook, and for her to post this to with her friends and whoever else might be tied into her account made me feel like a chump. i am probably just going to pull the doors off it that i wanted in the first place, strip whats left, and just scrap it.

  5. so your going to let facebook kill the dream :wack:

    sounds like you need to build the car for yourself and be happy and free.
  6. well "dems da berries"

    i already have a 67 barracuda i am building for myself. like i said i was going to originally use the 69 as a parts car for the doors and be done with it.

    so how would you have taken that post to faceplant?
  7. I would have taken it as offensive and ungrateful.....but I would still do what I want with the car. Once a 69 cuda is gone its gone.
  8. yeah I guess you're right about that one. once it's gone it's gone. maybe I'll just keep it around and loaded up with leftover parts. my son might want it when he gets older. and if he does at least I know it'll be going to someone who would want it.

    the post to faceplant still doesn't make me feel very good. but that's okay it is what it is. and I'm okay with that.

    you still got that Barracuda split bench? I'm still toying with making mine a bench seat 4 speed car. goes along with that great pretender look I'm after.
  9. the other thing i cant figure out is why would anyone want a belly button muscle car anyways
  10. Should she change her mind, there is a later Dart hood that is the same as the 69 Barracuda hood. I am thinking it is 73 through 76.

    If you were to buy the nose panel from Teeth & Tires, you could use the 67/68 grill set ups. The grilles shown in the picture have already been sold but he still may have the nose panel.

  11. If she is into Chevelles, look in the 72 model year. They have the same body style as a 70/71 and the difference between the 71 and 72 is the front grill and the maker lights, thats it. 72 is also usually cheaper because of the way the power output went from gross to net so people think it was a massive drop off in power. I know this because I still own my very first car, 1972 Chevelle SS.

  12. I think she already showed where she stands with it all so I would forget her and he should build it how he wants and getting the son involved is a great idea.

    View attachment haha.jpg
  13. its waiting for you.
  14. i got 2 67/68 hoods. was never fond of the 69 hood that was,eventually used on the 73/76 beak nosed dart. i can use the hoods i have. but cool idea.

    as far as a chebelle goes, the 71/72 models are still pricey since the 70 model is getting harder to find.

    i basically bought the doors and got the rest of the car for free with abill of sale and the vin. i dont think it gets any cheaper than that.
  15. build a 69 out of it, send me all the 68 stuff!!----bob
  16. i think i will just hold onto everything, ask my son when he gets older if he wants it. by then they will probably make outer door skins, and repop steel fenders.
  17. Are you sure your wife isn't cool with you building it for her? Did you ask her? It sounds like she was cool with it at first, then she made a facebook post just in fun, and maybe you took it too seriously? That sounds like something my wife would say to have fun with her friends, then say nice things about it later (to both me and them). Or, maybe she really doesn't get it, I don't know your wife, but it sure does seem like a major turnaround.

    At any rate, definitely agree with Rani, don't scrap the shell no matter what happens. It looks like a pretty solid starting point, and I'm sure there's lots of people who have pretty decent complete cars that are rusty, and it could be mated up to save a car. They haven't made a single one of those since 1969 you know.
  18. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I learned a long time ago, not to worry about what others think. I would build this car to your liking and sell it or give it to your son. Worse case spend the time and money to get a title in hand, spray bomb it into a primer shell and sell it off as it is. These cars are getting hard to find, I had to drive 800 miles one way for a reasonable shell to build.
  19. well if beauty is in the eye of the beholder then I must be the beholder because all I see in the OP is beauty. If that were in my backyard........yea....I would hug it.
  20. Hug a car....never done that one before (hell I've never even thought of it ).
  22. I wouldn't have considered putting all my extra parts in a pile and rolling them into the streets in the first place.
  23. ???
  24. There is a fastback here in the area. A nice looking car but the 1st time I seen it thought oh 67, then walking around it it has 69 side reflectors on the era, has some 68 parts here and there, then some 67 parts. Really don't remember what was what, but had them all on one car.

    For those that know the differences they will know. For those that don't, will think nice car.

    My dart has 67, 68 and 69 parts on it and doesn't have a single emblem as it what the car make or model is. Not everyone knows what it is, but most people knows it is a Dart.
  25. I don't think the latter part of this thread really is about what year the car is or will reflect as a finished product but more about the problems with getting hobby participation.

    Really when you go to shows its the same ol same ol. What kind of future is that for a hobby. I am sure the mopar community don't want to end up like street rod community which has disappeared as the way we knew it even ten years ago.

    It also shows how evil facebook can be if not kept in check. The tongue is as powerful as a sword and in this case a key stroke has equal power. Don't really matter what the car is or going to be its the pride and enthusiasm in our hobby that is at stake.

    have you hugged your mopar today
  26. well said Ranigirl,

    in some cases the pen is mightier than the sword, or in this case the keyboard. words do hurt, and like they say you only hurt the ones you love. probably because you get.comfortable to say anything, and realize that person still loves you no matter what. i love my wife, i am a bit hurt, but that doesnt dampen my love for her.

    i think putting words out there on the net like that is kinda wrong anyways, because the person getting offended doesnt know the context in which the words are written. case in point, i can type in ."your such an A$$" and depending on how its said you could be joking or serious by your voice tone. words typed dont have that, only whst the reader percieves them to be. sure caps and punctuation help convey the context of a printed sentence, but not everybody uses them this way.

    its ok, she said she was joking , and didnt mean any harm, but seemed to be upset last night when i got home from work. i didnt pry, but when things calm down where we can sit ant talk about what happened on facebook , and each explain our actions and reactions everything will be a bit better. keeping the line of communication open, and seeing the other persons point of view weather you agree with it or not is always important.
  27. Just agree to disagree

  28. I would just agree to do my own thing. Nothing against married people but that is why I stay single.....I had a guy tell me one time that its just a hobby and its not that important.......and I was like ...."hey buddy its a lifestyle and you mess with my cars or tools, there is going to be trouble"

    Well I didn't tell him that out loud but I thought it to myself (didn't say anything) ....but now someone is no longer in my contacts list ....yea
  29. Matt; Steven Young, here, the guy that sold you some BCuda Grilles, I believe off of Ebay. You have a hard decision. My advice is to keep it all 69 Cuda, they were really great Cars, especially the NotchBack. Mopar finally got the Notchback Right in 1969, the Graphics are the best and it was the Coolest of all the Notches.

    --- DO NOT BUY THE REPRO 69 CUDA GRILLE STUF...it is the worst. Hold out for some decent Grilles/Header on Ebay. Since the repro Crap has come out, prices on the OEM Grilles have become Cheeeep. Dont buy a fiberglass Header Panel for the car either. You will be sidelined by bad fitment problems and the fiberglass piece actually weighs MORE than the OEM steel.
    KEEP IT 69 and have a long talk with the Wifey about Chevelles and Camaros...CUZ IT AINT GONNA HAPPEN, MISSY!!!!
  30. Udate, got some nice 69 fenders, upper and lower valances, inner fender shields, and some other parts. Keeping 69 cuda for my son.



  31. agree w/ rani, build it w/ the parts you have, only make it fast. just to shame the slower crowd. only mopar people will know the diff.
  32. We must have different definition of roached. I wish I had that car to start with...LOL
    I have 67 notch 273 car convert BB tunnelram, Nitrous etc in.
    I have 68 grill assembly in it because at the time, that was better than the 67 with flimsy aluminum grill sections I had, 34 years ago.
  33. I got lucky. Was in the right place at the right time. Buddy called me about the parts, i went to look, thought my head was gonna pop off when i saw those fenders. Sucky part is a year prior to getting it, i parted out a 74 dart moredoor, and it had a perfect hood that i sold. I coulda used it on this cuda had i known i was gonna end up with this one, and the stuff i just bought. Just some more pieces to the puzzle.
  34. --------------what ??---------
  35. Yes belly button muscle car

    I got me a camaro.
    Yeah me too

    I got me a chevelle
    Yeah me too

    I got me a trans am
    Yeah me too

    When you go to shows and all you see are chevelles, trans ams and camaros, thats a belly button muscle car. It seems like everybodys got one. I prefer old muscle you dont see a lot of at shows.

    I got me a belly button
    Yeah me too
  36. Oh, and by the way, i have an 07 mustang GT that i really love. so i too suffer from belly button muscle car syndrome.

    I got me one of those mustang GTs
    Yeah me too

  37. Well a new update. I now have a proper 69 rallye dash frame, gages, plastic trim bezels, dash wiring, a new dash pad cap, glovebox door, and much more in pieces needed to put the correct dash back in this car. A big Thanks to Cosgig for dealing with all my crazy requests for the pieces out of a rotted beyond belief 69 fastback he was stripping out. And a second thanks to greyhound freight. Without the "fast dog" freight this deal wouldent have been possible. I have also slowly collected up more 69 specific parts including a decent used center tail panel, taillights, reverse lights. And a 74 dart hood that will work just fine for this.

    I have also rounded up some M body brakes, and swapped the discs and caliper brackets to cordoba big brakes, and am headed out tomorrow to score an xploder 8.8 with 3.73s, a locker , and disc brakes. Little by little i am collecting up the raw material to redo this one and save it from the dead.
  38. I am also piecing the 69 grilles together. And have the plastic headlight rings
  39. Ok my son and i decided to put this 69 dash together just to get all the pieces that came from basically everywhere all in one place, it will be taken back apart for the frame to be sand blasted and everything restored later.





  40. Very cool Matt, very cool. Any time you can get them involved is time that can't be beat by anything. He looks happy, very cool.
  41. gdrill, did you notice the rear in the backround? Thats the fresh pulled xploder 8.8 for the 69 cuda. 3.73 with a locker and disc brakes. Front will be M body brakes w cordoba big brake setup.

    Also got a nice accuform dash cap for the 69 dash for the big buildup
  42. Yes I did. Figured that was an 8.8. I installed the same thing in a 53 International pickup. Super easy and super nice. Easiest disc brake conversion out there.
  43. Yep and the parts are fairly inexpensive. Rotors on this one were smoked. I think it was driven metal in metal forever. The rotors are no shit damn near paper thin. I was pleasently surprised that bendix rear rotors are $15 each from rockauto.
  44. Yes it is nice to actually work with something that isn't outrageously priced! And you know parts will be available for these just about everywhere, unlike some other stuff we work with!
  45. Tell me about it. I got $1300 in a mopar 8.75 all because i liked that sexy welded cover and drop out 3rd member. Had to piece that together by hunting parts from everywhere. Had i known about the xploder swap 6 years ago when i started on that odessy i woulda went straight to the salvage yard and looked under ford xploders for a good one. Heck depending on how easy it is to shorten and mod this one, i may still do that and sell this rebuilt/restored 8.75.

    Not sure what going rate is on one of these in A body width with new yukon axles BBP, green bearings, new motive gear 3.73s eaton trutrac locker, completely rebuilt 10x2.5" drum brakes w kelsey hayes finned drums, and brand new brake lines. If i do that, i would want top dollar for it since it will be essential a rebuilt axle with zero miles on it. Have no idea what i can get out of it.
  46. This dash wiring in this thing is all set up for a light package, and has a map light, but no switch to turn it on. So how does the map light setup work on a 69 if theres not a seperate switch to turn it on independently of the dome light.
  47. Prob ought to post pix of the next item for the 69 notch. Xploder 8.8 3.73s with a locker and rear discs. Got a bunch o work to do on this one

  48. I just went out and looked at mine. It does not have the switch either.
  49. I have a spare map ligh switch and map light plate. I just got to get the wiring plug, and i may wire it in w a switch under the dash like my 67 is.
  50. Did you finally get the gears set up?
  51. Still waiting on Willie. He came by and got the rest of the pinion shims right at about the time the kiddos went back to school from thanksgiving break. I just called him. He said he had the rear back together the next day, but has been so busy he hasnt had time to bring it by. Had no time to go out to his deer lease either. I know he has a lot on his plate being head auto shop instructor, and head of the votech dept, so i will be glad to have it back.

    Brakes are all done/restored, new brake lines, new e brake cables, new axles. All thats left is to sand down and paint the housing, tap it for an 1/8" pipe tap drain plug on the bottom. Paint the chunk cast iron grey when i finally get it back and reassemble. The reassembly part will go quickly. Mebbe an afternoon and thats about it.

    So i guess i can start on the housing, and get it in primer and paint.
  52. Well later today i may be cutting off all the exploder specific brackets on that 8.8 rear. Its a 2001 so i got to figure out if its early or late 2001 to order brake pads. I still got 1 half of my garage to clean up and need to get motivated first.
  53. I have a buddy looking for a notch back here in Texas if you decide to sell it as is, pm me.
  54. Ok, but the answer at this time is no.
  55. I know where theres another 69 notchback in Anson Tx. Was a gran coupe. Needs everything, and i mean everything. But fairly solid except floors. Guy says he wants to restore it but i doubt he knows what hes getting into moneywise with it. Orig a 318 column shift 7.25 factory A/C car. Only thing straight on it is if i can remember right is the roof, RT rear quarter panel, drivers door. Needs trunklid, whole nose, LT rear quarter unless you want to bang out and fix bullet holes, passenger door, all window glass, he wanted $500 for it w no title. I offered $250 he didnt go for it. I was going to combine everything from both cars to make a good one. I have since collected up more for the 69 i have making it closer to being restorable. Getting a Texas bonded title isnt a problem, but it will cost you close to $300 with a bond to do it right. I have done this before.
  56. Got a good after Christmas sale thru www.getallparts.com a pair of goodmark 69 rear quarters, 10% off plus shipping. Ended up costing $312 shipped for the pair. Essentially $1 more than i payed for a pair of these for my 67 notchback 4 years ago. Also got a nice new dutchman panel off fabo awhile back for i think $50 to replace the one thats rotted across the bottom.


  57. Wow, nice. So, those are Goodmark? Can I ask how much shipping was? I need to ship one up to Montana.
  58. Just checked bill of lading, they came out of Kansas city missouri. Out of state, I payed i think shipping only . They had a keystone warehouse stamp on them. Total was $312, minus $260 for the pair. $45.00 i can only assume the $45 was truck freight, either that or somebody really screwed up when they calculated the shipping.

    The set i got for my 67 about 4 years ago were $125 each no discount was available to be applied , and i got a goodmark battery tray along with them for $11. Everything that time shipped from a warehouse in Texas. I had to pay 8.25% sales tax, and shipping. Still was only $311 back then
  59. Thanks Matt, that was a great deal!
  60. Check their site. They dont have "all" parts, however they got quite a bit in sheetmetal parts.

    They used to have The goodmark repop standard mopar steering wheel in black.for 67-69. I picked it up for $95 when they had them. Werent listed for barracuda, but were listed for 68-69 dart and charger.
  61. Looking good Matt! Looking fwd to more updates
  62. As far as em being goodmark, they say GMK in the part number so i can only assume so. I slipped one over my 67 existing oem quarter. And they seem to fit pretty good. I dont understand why people cut so much off them to install them. One of the rectangular reflector holes the corner flange isnt quite pressed down. Easily fixed though
  63. Hi steve, this thread is for the 69 notch i rescued. It was a half stripped race car. It was going to be a 67, 68, 69, but over time i seem to be finding more 69 specific parts so the thread is morphing into a collection of parts to redo a 69 notchback w my son as he gets older. I also got all the wiring for the car minus the dash harness thru yearones new years 30% off discount. I got a decent useable dash harness for a 69 from Cosgig i will redo.
  64. Well Matt, I followed your link and ordered a quarter. The quarter was $148 and shipping was $12! I still think something is going to go wrong as this is ridiculously low. Even Rockauto was $230 shipping.
  65. Woohoo awesome. So glad i was able to help you out. Was that quarter you ordered for that 69 fastop?
  66. Yup, that is what I ordered. Like you said, it is cheap! Unbelievably cheap. If you had not already done this, I would think it was a scam!
  67. LOL. I know right. I couldent believe my eyes the first time i ordered my 67 quarters from them. I was like ummm ok this is what you want for it all shipped to my doorstep. Ok i'll bite. If its a scam i will have my credit card company cancel the charges.

    Its a shame you didnt pick up the 10% off new years discount. Not sure if it was running for a week or all month. And you did way better on the freight than me at $12. Mine was $45, but i had 2 quarters, and i think maybe sales tax.

    Somebody needs to tell em to stock floor pans and wheel houses, trunk extensions trunk floors etc lol. I'd gladly pick it all if i could get it on the cheap.
  68. No kidding. They have a "floor pan" listed but it is actually only a 4 spd hump. I will be keeping an eye on this sight to see what they come up with. I believe I got the last passenger side quarter they had.
  69. They used to have the goodmark repop standard steering wheel for 67-69. Used to be listed for dart. About $95.
  70. Heres aome more good deals they have. I may have to go back for the mirrors. Dual non remotes would be cool.


  71. I'm not sure what bumpers go for, but they have them for about $200. These prices are good, but the shipping is beyond belief.
  72. Chrome cuda bumpers. I think i payed $275 each for mine, that was maybe 5-6 years ago thru evilbay. Golden star, maybe Goodmark. Id have to look at the boxes in my loft. I have 2 oem ones that are straight but need rechrome. I'm saving those for the 69. I figure etch primer, paint em body color with new hardware, and change em out for chrome ones later.
  73. If we can get enough people to buy from em, maybe they will offer more parts
  74. I finally pieced together some nice 69 grilles, out of 2 sets of broken grilles, and some other odds n ends i got from fabo sale ads, so its looking more like its gonna actually be a 69 barracuda instead of a 3 year pieced together car. It took me 2 years of swappin and tradin and lots of plastic repair on the surrounds to get them to this point. Everythings temp assembled and in a padded box in my loft. They will come back apart to have final sanding and paint work done prior to assembly on the car when my boy gets older. Some new pieces on them like a mounting hardware kit, and new bulbs and lenses, but the rest is all used parts. Please do not inquire about me selling these. They are not for sale.



  75. Finally finished piecing some 69 taillights together. The housings were from laysons sold to me by a fabo member. Lenses i got used from Cosgig, and micropolished to look like new and the trim euscutcheons i got on sale from PG not shown in pix. Also got new lens gaskets from Jim fillmore at DMT.

  76. Still a collection of parts, but more complete. Some assembly still required. Picked up new wiring harnesses from year one. One harness at a time every time they ran a 30% off special.
  77. Well i went junkyarding this past weekend. Got a driveshaft and yoke from a 71 dart for the cuda. Its going to be a 318 / A904 combo. Also picked up four 15x7 fifth avenue steelies and one 15x5.5 diplomat steelie for a spare. As well as the 71 darts dash frame to drill off and use the lower U channel out of to replace the rotted one on the 69s dash frame. Got a few other odds and ends. Cost me $60.

    Spent 5 hours there got my ankles and back bit up by chiggers even though i used cardboard to lay on to get my driveshaft. I also killed 2 small scorpions while there, and got sunburnt with 110°F temps. Drank 2 gallons of cold water while there, pissed none of it out. Good times, good times. I had fun, but was drained by the time i left. Could feel the sun sucking the life out of me.

    Other good news another buddy of mine is stripping out an old dirt track stock car dodge for parts with a blown up 318. Its got a working A904 in it. He offered me the trans with torque converter, and all the mounting hardware from the crank back for $40. I plan on putting a rebuild kit and new bands in it. So anyhoo this puts me closer with more pieces to the giant jigsaw puzzle. Now i have a full drivetrain.


  78. Found out the other day that even though a 73-76 dart hood makes a suitable substitute for the elusive 69 barracuda hood, there are some differences besides the dimpled inner structure to allow a controlled bend in a collision. Thats the part i dont care about. Once its painted up under there 95% of the people looking at it will never know the difference.

    The difference that i did not know about was the different hinges. Supposedly the 69 hood the hinges have round holes, and the hood has floating nutplates for fore and aft hood adjustment, and on the 73-76 the nutplates are fixed into the hood structure and do not move. The hinges are whats slotted for adjustment. I cannot verify this because the 69 came without either of those parts, so back up to the salvage yard i went. Grabbed a pair of slotted hinges off a 74 valiant. Very little play in them.

    I also grabbed couple mercury switch operated under hood lights from chevy suburbans. I figure it would be a nice addition to have one on my 67 and one on the 69 in case you have to look at something under there at night. Very nice deal they even have a braded ground wire attached to the mount bracket. Hinges and under hood lights were a couple bucks.
  79. Suburban underhood lights

  80. Got some gas tank J bolts and nuts off a 71 scamp as well.on my junkyard jaunt. Straps were cut, tank was gone. J hooks were dangling under the car. Easy pickins. Pix will give you an idea how nice the climate is to the metal out here. First pic looks crusty as heck. Relax, its just caked on dirt, and undercoating. Pic 2 i wire wheeled enough to loosen the nuts. They came loose and spun off with only a little effort. Gold zinc dichromate on the threads under where nut was. Last pic cleaned up in a wire wheel, and some epoxy primer dipped on the ends. The nylon lock feature on the nuts is still good. Theres still enough drag torque on the nuts to reuse them.



  81. Got some 68/69 stainless exhaust tips from Matt at MCB restorations , along with other stuff.


  82. Drilled out spotwelds on 71 scamp dash frame to remove lower dash support U channel. I will sand blast this part clean, prep it with weld thru primer, and transfer it to the 69 cuda dash frame, as its in way better condition. 69 rallye dash lower support is very rusty.

    Also it looks like this scamp may have had a map light at one time. The holes are drilled for it. I may make a template for the hole location if anybody needs one.


  83. Christmas in July, AMD to the rescue with some needed parts to fix those hacked up wheel tubs. Car in the backround is my 67. None of this is needed for it, except a LH trunk extension. I will buy another LH extension for mine at a later date. My 5 year old son wants to get started on this project, but i keep telling him i need to collect up some more parts before we start. I told him his grandpa did the same thing and collected up all the parts first when he restored his Lil red express truck.



  84. Picked this little beauty up splitting cost in halvsies with a fellow fabo member who needed all the rust free outer skins, dutchman, glass, trunk extensions and outer wheel houses.

    I need the rear seat/transition pan, rust free uncut trunk floor needing the typical patch work in the spare well, inner wheel houses, rear seat bracing, and right rear foot pan to repair the main floor in the cuda. For the most part Its all light surface rust. Looks worse than it actually is.

    We are slowly cutting the spot welds and dissecting this thing to save all the metal we need. Will eventually have a nice solid roof skin for a 2 door hard top dart or scamp, and rust free framerails for sale




  85. With the Scamp sheetmetal, AMD parts, and Goodmark quarters i am getting closer metalwise to unF@@King this car.

    I also ordered an AMD spare tire bracket/gas tank bracket, and a sherman spare tire well patch panel. I still need to get a twin exhaust rear valance, trunk hinge mounts, and either fabricate new roof supports to replace the ones ricky racer cut off , or see if somebody is willing to cut off a set from a junker for me.
  86. Circled pic is of another members cuda thats getting quarters replaced. The piece circled is what prev owner cut out of the cuda i have to install his tubs. When i do the metal work, i have to put these back in. Still trying to decide if i should cut them out of a junker and graft them in, or get flat steel sheet in the same gage and make them.

  87. Rough fitted the 74 dart hood with an aftermarket demon/dart sport twin scoop. I think it looks better than the fake 69 twin "periscope" looking scoops. It will get cut out as a functioning scoop. The 318 will eventually become a 390, so i bought the 340-S emblems on a year one 30% off deal for the sides of the scoop. Think they ended up being $22 each. So yeah, nothing happening on my 67, but the parts collection for my sons 69 is growing.




  88. Since this is looking more and more like a build thread, maybe the mods can move it to restorations for me.
  89. Well i got some new die cast grille surrounds from PG classic on a 25% off sale. Made them fit lol. Also wet sanded the headlight rings and hit thrm with a krylon satin metallic aluminum. Very nice color. Similar to OEM. Covers fast, dries fast.




  90. So i got a console setup i pieced together for the 69. It came with a console and buckets from the factory. Ricky racer sawsalled all the brackets out and punched a jagged hole for a cable.

    The console top plate i have somebody drilled holes for a tachometer mount it looks like, and a larger hole for an oil pressure gage. I dont really want to spend money for a set of repops at this time, along with repops for the gage bezels because thats about $1200 that could be spent elsewhere, and these parts can be replaced easily later on. So the plan is to paint these parts semigloss black and use carbon fiber decal inserts from DMT instead of woodgrain.

    Problem was the big assed hole in the console top plate. I ended up gluing and riveting some aluminum plate to the underside and using JB weld like body filler. It still needs sanding, and etch primer. Eventually i will paint it and decal it. This makes a good temporary solution.






  91. Memike, thank you for moving my thread.
  92. Anytime at all my friend, digging this thread, you have a great weekend :thumbsup:
  93. Getting closer to harvesting the sheetmetal out of the scamp. Its been slow going between work, and home life but i'm getting there. Got a nice rust free spare tire well to graft in from another list member.


  94. Damn, I hope you guys realize just how good you have it. I wouldn't call that rust free, it would be near N.O.S. here! Oh to live in a rust free area.......where is my jealous / drooling emoji when I need it?!

    Nice work on the dismantling. :thumbsup:
  95. The spare tire well i actually had shipped in from a michigan fabo member. So yes up there theres still some good stuff to be had unless he brought the car in from a dry state. He was going race car setup with fuel cell. BTW, i used to live in a crusty assed rust belt state up north. I am well aware of how shitty it is to cars.

    I remember having to use an assload of WD40 on everything, the ole bernsomatic torch for heating up bolts to loosen them, replacing rusted to shit hardware with stainless steel hardware, using antisieze compound on everything, 10 year old cars and trucks you could shove your fist through the body panels, rust proofing the bodys on new vehicles just to slow down that shit for a few more years, winterizing your good car around late october, and driving a ratty rusted piece of shit all winter long, and pulling your good car out of hibernation after the spring rains wash the residual salt away. Yes i remember that bullshit all too well. And no i dont miss it one bit.

    We should start a thread in the same vein as jeff foxworthys you might be a redneck.

    I can start.

    If dissassembling something on your car starts with a cutoff wheel and a hacksaw instead of wrenches. "You might live in a rustbelt state"

    If any repair on your daily driver involves the purchase of new stainless steel hardware to replace rusty frozen shit, " You might live in a rustbelt state"

    If you make a hard turn, and stuff flies out of the side of your trunk, "You might live in a rustbelt state"
  96. LOL, exactly. And I is very disappointing to see a 10 year old vehicle rusting. That's a pretty hefty investment for a 10 year running life!
  97. Truck frames last pretty long up there. Guys come to texas to buy cabs, beds etc. Feel free to add to my jeff foxworthy "you might live in a rustbelt state if"
  98. If every used car purchase involves a screwdriver and crawling on your back poking around at the frame and the floor, as well as pulling up the carpet, "You might live in a rustbelt state"
  99. If your completely shocked when a guy in a dry state says somethings rusted out when theres only a quarter sized hole in the bottom of each quarter panel, "You might live in a rustbelt state"
  100. I just did exactly that screwdriver tactic on this car. Exactly! I'll add that if you use an air hammer to vibrate the rotten off your car, you just might live in a rust belt.