txstang84
Well-Known Member
:sign3:
67 Dart 270...Project Old School
- Thread starter sledger46
- Start date
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sledger46
Well-Known Member
I hear what you are saying. What took a **** on your engine in 2 weeks?
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Hello all,
I have always had problems with Mopar wiring harnesses. Usually by the time I get the cars the wiring has been butchered and is usually overloaded from added accessories. I added a secondary fuse block that I use to power everything I add to the car to keep the load off of the original harness. I added a 100 Amp, 1 wire, alternator directly connected to the battery to ensure I did not over load the wiring for the car's ammeter in the dash.
I swapped out the points style distributor for an electronic distributor and an ignition module. This added to the wiring clutter under the hood. I had seen the Chevy style HEI for Mopars and really liked the way it was self contained and would allow me to clean up the wiring. I also read that the Chevy style HEI would not fit. I decided to find out for myself if it would fit.
Lets just say it is TIGHT...
Surprisingly, it is not touching any where. I can rotate the distributor about 45 degrees befor it touches. It is obvious though that with the plug wiries on the terminals, it would be touching the firewall.
This is with an unmodified firewall and the engine in the original location. Since this car started life as a /6 car it is hard to be sure. There is hope though. My plan is to move the engine forward 1/2". I also want to slightly move the engine to the passenger side for better header/steering column clearance on the driver's side. If it works out there will be some added bonuses. My driveshaft is a tad too long and I was actually planing to pull it out and have another 1/2" taken out. I would also gain better access to the bellhousing bolts. I don't have a shroud for my fan so getting it a little closer to the radiator should help cooling.
I am already in the process of blowing apart the wiring harness so I can eliminate the wiring for the voltage regulator, ballast resistor, coil, and ignition module. Is there a clean way to remove the spade from the firewall plug? I really don't want to just cut off the unneeded wire at the firewall plug. Is there a trick to getting them out?
I have always had problems with Mopar wiring harnesses. Usually by the time I get the cars the wiring has been butchered and is usually overloaded from added accessories. I added a secondary fuse block that I use to power everything I add to the car to keep the load off of the original harness. I added a 100 Amp, 1 wire, alternator directly connected to the battery to ensure I did not over load the wiring for the car's ammeter in the dash.
I swapped out the points style distributor for an electronic distributor and an ignition module. This added to the wiring clutter under the hood. I had seen the Chevy style HEI for Mopars and really liked the way it was self contained and would allow me to clean up the wiring. I also read that the Chevy style HEI would not fit. I decided to find out for myself if it would fit.
Lets just say it is TIGHT...
Surprisingly, it is not touching any where. I can rotate the distributor about 45 degrees befor it touches. It is obvious though that with the plug wiries on the terminals, it would be touching the firewall.
This is with an unmodified firewall and the engine in the original location. Since this car started life as a /6 car it is hard to be sure. There is hope though. My plan is to move the engine forward 1/2". I also want to slightly move the engine to the passenger side for better header/steering column clearance on the driver's side. If it works out there will be some added bonuses. My driveshaft is a tad too long and I was actually planing to pull it out and have another 1/2" taken out. I would also gain better access to the bellhousing bolts. I don't have a shroud for my fan so getting it a little closer to the radiator should help cooling.
I am already in the process of blowing apart the wiring harness so I can eliminate the wiring for the voltage regulator, ballast resistor, coil, and ignition module. Is there a clean way to remove the spade from the firewall plug? I really don't want to just cut off the unneeded wire at the firewall plug. Is there a trick to getting them out?
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Yeah, there's a link on it here somewhere. You just use a small jewelers screwdriver under the hood side to press in the little tab inside the connector.
If you're looking at the bulkhead connector under the hood, you can see the terminals inside; on the back of the flat side of that terminal end, there's a little tab that locks it in place...if you press that tab in with the tiny screwdriver, it'll allow you to pull the wires out one by one from the inside of the car.
Make sense?
If you're looking at the bulkhead connector under the hood, you can see the terminals inside; on the back of the flat side of that terminal end, there's a little tab that locks it in place...if you press that tab in with the tiny screwdriver, it'll allow you to pull the wires out one by one from the inside of the car.
Make sense?
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
It threw a ROD and wiped out a Cylinder........ carnage everywhere!
When you add the power goodies on top your gunna want to get the most out of it....and your gunna run the dog snot out of it. The old bottom ends no Likey that too much cause they have already ran their course. Mine went KABOOOOOM and in a big way! I ended up building a Stroker to replace it.
I found pieces of the piston in the carburetor and the mufflers when I fired up the new engine!! Shrapnel was flying everywhere!
nitrojunkee
Well-Known Member
Very cool. I always enjoy seeing hardtop builds, they look great. This one is no exception!
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Geeeezus! Pieces of piston in the carb?? I've heard of and seen some [I thought] pretty spectacular carnage, but I can't say that I've ever seen that...wow...
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
The arm part of the Rod and the Piston in that cylinder were never found along with the cylinder wall. When it came apart some pieces of material hung the valves open and busted the heads off that cylinders valves too. It was not good. It sounded just like a big glass jar of marbles when it happened. You would think the sound would be worse but my description of the sound is exactly what it was like....... Dipstick was out of its sleeve about 8" too. Oil everywhere.
:burnout:
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Does this work to get the wires out of the plug that plugs into the firewall on the engine side. I am actually wanting to cleanly remove the extra wires on the engine side.
Thanks
Thanks
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I managed to get the engine back together and fired up. I did fire it up previously with open headers for 30 seconds to confirm the distributor was in correctly. I had to remember to tie IGN1 and IGN2 together to get the HEI working. So far I have made it to the end of the driveway just checking for leaks. Does anyone have suggestions on how to get the thermostat housing to not leak? I have changed the gasket several times and even put sealer on the bolt threads.
So basically I went from this:
Cleaned up and with electronic conversion (ignition and volatge regulator)to this:
To this (Magnum heads, GM style HEI, one wire alternator):
I used plug wires for a 5.0L Ferd to get the correct ends on the wires for the HEI cap. I need to get some plug wire looms.
Getting the big HEI distributor to fit wasn't easy but was worth the effort. I had to slot the transmission mount and the motor mounts to be able to slide the engine forward 1/2". Everything still clears nicely, even where the drag link goes through the headers.
I was really surprised when I got the engine fired up and finally got a timing light on it. I was worried I would not have enough timing and kept cranking in more timing as I was trying to start it. When I got the timing light on it, I had to dial back the light to 65 degrees to get the mark back to zero. I then pulled the vacuum line and I set the initial timing to 16 degrees. I also had to crank up the idle speed a tad to get it to idle in Park. Now I need to fiddle with the carb to work with the bigger cam.
I plan to take it to the track in the next week or so to see if all these latest changes actually make any more power.
So basically I went from this:
Cleaned up and with electronic conversion (ignition and volatge regulator)to this:
To this (Magnum heads, GM style HEI, one wire alternator):
I used plug wires for a 5.0L Ferd to get the correct ends on the wires for the HEI cap. I need to get some plug wire looms.
Getting the big HEI distributor to fit wasn't easy but was worth the effort. I had to slot the transmission mount and the motor mounts to be able to slide the engine forward 1/2". Everything still clears nicely, even where the drag link goes through the headers.
I was really surprised when I got the engine fired up and finally got a timing light on it. I was worried I would not have enough timing and kept cranking in more timing as I was trying to start it. When I got the timing light on it, I had to dial back the light to 65 degrees to get the mark back to zero. I then pulled the vacuum line and I set the initial timing to 16 degrees. I also had to crank up the idle speed a tad to get it to idle in Park. Now I need to fiddle with the carb to work with the bigger cam.
I plan to take it to the track in the next week or so to see if all these latest changes actually make any more power.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I got some time last night to tune on the carb. Last time I drove it I was having to have it idle at 1500 in neutral to get it to idle at 800 in gear and it still wanted to die half the time. Fun times in a tight parking lot with the manual steering. Tonight I pulled the carb and checked the front butterflies and they were open so far they were well into the idle transfer slots. I grabbed a small screw driver and cranked open the rear butterflies a full turn. I mounted up the card and fired it up and it wanted to idle at 2000 rpm. I turned down the primary idle screw until it was no longer touching and it still wanted to idle at 1300.
I pulled the carb again and closed the secondard butterflies 1/2 a turn. I mounted the carb on the engine and now I was able to hit the correct idle speeds. I set the idle at 750-800 in gear. I took it for a drive and let it fully warm up. After the 5 mile cruise I returned to the garage to find the car would restart easily, but would die when you put it into gear. I upped the idle speed to 850-900 in gear but the results were the same. I then backed out the idle mixture screws 1/2 turn on both sides and it was bettter, but still died. Another half turn out on the idle mixture screws and now the engine just purrs at 850 when I drop it into gear.
The vacuum gauge shows I am pulling 12" of vacuum in gear and 15" in park. I have the distributor set at 16 degrees initial timing. If I get some time tonight I will plot out the mechanical advance timing curve. I want to shoot for 35-36 total to start.
Back to the carb, I am thinking I need to swap to a lighter spring in the secondaries (750-3310). With the stock cast pistons I will be shifting under 6000 RPM. What would be a good spring to try? Purple? short yellow?
I pulled the carb again and closed the secondard butterflies 1/2 a turn. I mounted the carb on the engine and now I was able to hit the correct idle speeds. I set the idle at 750-800 in gear. I took it for a drive and let it fully warm up. After the 5 mile cruise I returned to the garage to find the car would restart easily, but would die when you put it into gear. I upped the idle speed to 850-900 in gear but the results were the same. I then backed out the idle mixture screws 1/2 turn on both sides and it was bettter, but still died. Another half turn out on the idle mixture screws and now the engine just purrs at 850 when I drop it into gear.
The vacuum gauge shows I am pulling 12" of vacuum in gear and 15" in park. I have the distributor set at 16 degrees initial timing. If I get some time tonight I will plot out the mechanical advance timing curve. I want to shoot for 35-36 total to start.
Back to the carb, I am thinking I need to swap to a lighter spring in the secondaries (750-3310). With the stock cast pistons I will be shifting under 6000 RPM. What would be a good spring to try? Purple? short yellow?
sledger46
Well-Known Member
With all the rain we have been having I got some time to finally finish up the cold air induction setup for my 67 Dart. When I cleaned up the 360 engine 3 years ago I installed a Spectre Performance chrome air cleaner with two air inlets.
Now I needed to figure out where to draw some cool air. I finally settled on the radiator support, but it is very crowded. On the driver's side the battery sits so high it prevents getting a straight shot at the radiator support. Several years ago I pulled the factory battery tray and shortened it about three inches and welded it back together. I was using a physically smaller battery which allowed me to move the tray down to the frame rail. On the passenger side, the horns and relay are in the way. In my last bout of cleaning up the wiring under the hood I moved the horn wiring to the drivers side fender. I plan to mount the relay and horns on the frame rail under the battery tray.
On Saturday I picked up a exhaust adapter that is designed to connect two 4" diameter exhaust pipes together. The overall length was 8". I also went to Lowes and picked up a 4 1/8" hole saw.
I cut the exhaust adapter in half and then cut off the sloted slip fit portion. What I ended up with were two pieces of pipe with 4" OD on one end and 4 1/8 OD on the other end. The hardest part was trying to find a place on the radiator support to cut the holes that had a flat spot for the center drill bit. Cutting holes on non-flat surfaces is always scary, so don't forget to wear some gloves and eye protection.
Test fitting the exhaust pipe adapter in the hole:
I tack welded the pipes in place. The metal is so thin and my crappy welder wants to burn holes in the radiator support, so I just tacked it in four spots. Be careful and don't tack the pipe to the fender metal. You may want to remove the fender in the future.
This is what it looks like all mocked up:
After I tacked the pipes in place I used seal sealer inside and out to seal the hole around the pipe. Final touch was some high temperature black paint.
Now I needed to figure out where to draw some cool air. I finally settled on the radiator support, but it is very crowded. On the driver's side the battery sits so high it prevents getting a straight shot at the radiator support. Several years ago I pulled the factory battery tray and shortened it about three inches and welded it back together. I was using a physically smaller battery which allowed me to move the tray down to the frame rail. On the passenger side, the horns and relay are in the way. In my last bout of cleaning up the wiring under the hood I moved the horn wiring to the drivers side fender. I plan to mount the relay and horns on the frame rail under the battery tray.
On Saturday I picked up a exhaust adapter that is designed to connect two 4" diameter exhaust pipes together. The overall length was 8". I also went to Lowes and picked up a 4 1/8" hole saw.
I cut the exhaust adapter in half and then cut off the sloted slip fit portion. What I ended up with were two pieces of pipe with 4" OD on one end and 4 1/8 OD on the other end. The hardest part was trying to find a place on the radiator support to cut the holes that had a flat spot for the center drill bit. Cutting holes on non-flat surfaces is always scary, so don't forget to wear some gloves and eye protection.
Test fitting the exhaust pipe adapter in the hole:
I tack welded the pipes in place. The metal is so thin and my crappy welder wants to burn holes in the radiator support, so I just tacked it in four spots. Be careful and don't tack the pipe to the fender metal. You may want to remove the fender in the future.
This is what it looks like all mocked up:
After I tacked the pipes in place I used seal sealer inside and out to seal the hole around the pipe. Final touch was some high temperature black paint.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbBs5I0pBYk"]67 Dart test - YouTube[/ame]
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I got to spend a little bit of time working on the car this weekend. I didn't get a lot accomplished, but I did manage to get the grill and headlight buckets back in.
I did get some time on Sunday morning to run over to the Mega Mopar meet and go through the manufacturer's midway. I did pick up a repo fan shroud and a dome light cover. The dome light cover was a snap to install. The repop fan shroud is going to need some work to fit. I did stick around long enough to watch the Nostalgia Stock/SuperStock cars make some passes. The lower classes ran on an index, but the SS cars ran heads up no breakout.
I did get some time on Sunday morning to run over to the Mega Mopar meet and go through the manufacturer's midway. I did pick up a repo fan shroud and a dome light cover. The dome light cover was a snap to install. The repop fan shroud is going to need some work to fit. I did stick around long enough to watch the Nostalgia Stock/SuperStock cars make some passes. The lower classes ran on an index, but the SS cars ran heads up no breakout.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
This weekend I started the conversion to a digital dash. I am using a 6 gauge clutster from Itellitronix. My plan is to have it all fit inside the stock, 67 gauge bezel. The problem I have right now is none of the gauges in the dash work reliably (other then the amp gauge). I have gauges hanging every where.
Here you see the tach on the column and the fuel gauge hanging on the left.
Under the dash I have the 3 gauge combo of voltage/oil pressure/water temperature:
Over all it detracts from the plain jane, low performance image I am trying to project. I managed to remove the stock instrument cluster from the dash and then unscrew the gauge cluster from the bezel. I then washed the bezel in warm soapy water to get rid of the 45+ years of dust hiding in all the nooks and crevices.
First I wanted to ensure the digital panel was working so I hooked it up to a 9V battery.
I then test fit the digital on the bezel using the factory cluster screw points.
You can see the compact the digital cluster is very compact. It also weighs a lot less then the pot metal casting for the factory gauges. The digital cluster has two push buttons that need to be accessible in order to initiate functions like calibrate the speedometer or review 0-60 times. I had to drill 2 small holes in the factory bezel and I also had to extend the buttons to reach through the factory bezel. I used round plastic rod cut to length and then attached it to the existing push button rods using heat shrink tubing. If I ever have to take it apart I will just simply split the tubing with a knife and remove my extensions.
I used thin black plastic sheet to fill in the spaces on the end of the bezel where the digital cluster did not cover. The pieces of platic sheet are held in place with the factory gauge cluster screws and mounting points. I have the digital gauge cluster mounted to the factory bezel and I am at the point of wiring up the modular plug I got from Radio Shack. This way, it I ever need to remove the cluster/bezel assembly in the future I will be able to unplug it.
Here you see the tach on the column and the fuel gauge hanging on the left.
Under the dash I have the 3 gauge combo of voltage/oil pressure/water temperature:
Over all it detracts from the plain jane, low performance image I am trying to project. I managed to remove the stock instrument cluster from the dash and then unscrew the gauge cluster from the bezel. I then washed the bezel in warm soapy water to get rid of the 45+ years of dust hiding in all the nooks and crevices.
First I wanted to ensure the digital panel was working so I hooked it up to a 9V battery.
I then test fit the digital on the bezel using the factory cluster screw points.
You can see the compact the digital cluster is very compact. It also weighs a lot less then the pot metal casting for the factory gauges. The digital cluster has two push buttons that need to be accessible in order to initiate functions like calibrate the speedometer or review 0-60 times. I had to drill 2 small holes in the factory bezel and I also had to extend the buttons to reach through the factory bezel. I used round plastic rod cut to length and then attached it to the existing push button rods using heat shrink tubing. If I ever have to take it apart I will just simply split the tubing with a knife and remove my extensions.
I used thin black plastic sheet to fill in the spaces on the end of the bezel where the digital cluster did not cover. The pieces of platic sheet are held in place with the factory gauge cluster screws and mounting points. I have the digital gauge cluster mounted to the factory bezel and I am at the point of wiring up the modular plug I got from Radio Shack. This way, it I ever need to remove the cluster/bezel assembly in the future I will be able to unplug it.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I finished wiring up the modular plug last night.
Here is a shot of the back side of the bezel with the digital cluster mounted and the black plastic pieces mounted on the ends.
I began removing all the old gauges from the car and began rerouting the signal wires from the oil pressure, water temperature, tach, and fuel sender to the dash area. I won't have a chance to work on it again until late in the week. I would really like to get the the new digital cluster installed in the car and operational this weekend.
Here is a shot of the back side of the bezel with the digital cluster mounted and the black plastic pieces mounted on the ends.
I began removing all the old gauges from the car and began rerouting the signal wires from the oil pressure, water temperature, tach, and fuel sender to the dash area. I won't have a chance to work on it again until late in the week. I would really like to get the the new digital cluster installed in the car and operational this weekend.
stingerdart
New Member
I am a new member here...worked for Don Yenko in the 60's..still vintage race my Yenko Stinger... My brother recently gave me his 1st new car...67 Dart 270, 273 Hipo, torqflite, 8 3/4 rear, posi, front disc brakes, Rallye susp. 4door , bench seat, all records since new....He was a Marine Corp pilot in Nam,, received the DFC...test pilot later in helicopters . I am the " care taker " of the car now and plan a full restoration this Winter. Last project...1966 Yenko Stinger Canadian Prototype received 998/ 10000 points at Chicago Musclecar Show.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the site and thanks for taking the time to wade through my thread. I am shooting for an under stated resto-mod. Let me know if there are any pieces parts you need as I have kept everything I have removed from the my car.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Over the weekend I test fit the new digital dash in the Dart.
I still need to hook up the speed sensor in place of the speedometer cable. I managed to leave the dome light on in the car over night which explains the low voltage reading in this picture.
I still need to hook up the speed sensor in place of the speedometer cable. I managed to leave the dome light on in the car over night which explains the low voltage reading in this picture.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I spent Sunday morning tinkering on the Dart. I first moved vehicles around so I wouldn't have to lay in the oil pool sprinkled with assorted wrenches under the Dart. Once I had it situated in the middle of the garage, I jacked up the driver's side and set it down on a jack stand. I then climbed underneath to see what all needed to be done to hook up my speed sensor for my digital speedometer. That was when I began to remember all the things I had neglected to fix in a while.
The most annoying problem I was planning to solve involved when you have the shifter pulled down into first gear and tromp on the gas, the shifter immediately pops into second gear. How is that possible and is that an easy fix? Actually yes it is. On Chrysler 904/727 the kick down lever and the shift lever share the same shaft. The shift lever moves forward towards the front of the car as you shift down through the gears. The kick down lever swings to the back as you tromp the gas to the floor. The bolt in the kick down lever was just barely hitting the shift lever as it swings past.. I simply used a tool to bend the kick down lever up slightly and WHALA no more interference.
Item number 2 on the hit parade was the emergency brake cable. I was never able to hook it up with the factory cable in the car and the cables going to the C-body brakes on the 8 3/4 rear. The cable was about 2" too short. I took some 1" wide flat steel and bent it into a rectangle and welded the seam. I drilled hole through the box on opposite sides. I then bolted the box to the bracket that holds the two brake cables on one side and ran the threaded rod of the brake cable through the other side of the box. I will have to do some testing and adjusting. The E-brake in the Dart is a hand - pull brake.
Finally I got to work on the speed senor. It just screws into the place left by the speedometer cable. It has three wires of which one was a ground. That wire got screwed into the cross member. The other two wires were run following the old speedometer route and used the factory clips. I even ran the wires through the firewall where the old speedometer went in. One wire connects to the digital dash and the other wire is connected to 12V. I got the car down off the jack stand and took it out for a short cruise to see if the speedometer actually had a reading. Surprisingly, the speedometer was reading pretty close. Not surprisingly there was a storm rolling in and it would be raining in 5 minutes. I almost made it around the section before the first sprinkles hit my windshield.
The most annoying problem I was planning to solve involved when you have the shifter pulled down into first gear and tromp on the gas, the shifter immediately pops into second gear. How is that possible and is that an easy fix? Actually yes it is. On Chrysler 904/727 the kick down lever and the shift lever share the same shaft. The shift lever moves forward towards the front of the car as you shift down through the gears. The kick down lever swings to the back as you tromp the gas to the floor. The bolt in the kick down lever was just barely hitting the shift lever as it swings past.. I simply used a tool to bend the kick down lever up slightly and WHALA no more interference.
Item number 2 on the hit parade was the emergency brake cable. I was never able to hook it up with the factory cable in the car and the cables going to the C-body brakes on the 8 3/4 rear. The cable was about 2" too short. I took some 1" wide flat steel and bent it into a rectangle and welded the seam. I drilled hole through the box on opposite sides. I then bolted the box to the bracket that holds the two brake cables on one side and ran the threaded rod of the brake cable through the other side of the box. I will have to do some testing and adjusting. The E-brake in the Dart is a hand - pull brake.
Finally I got to work on the speed senor. It just screws into the place left by the speedometer cable. It has three wires of which one was a ground. That wire got screwed into the cross member. The other two wires were run following the old speedometer route and used the factory clips. I even ran the wires through the firewall where the old speedometer went in. One wire connects to the digital dash and the other wire is connected to 12V. I got the car down off the jack stand and took it out for a short cruise to see if the speedometer actually had a reading. Surprisingly, the speedometer was reading pretty close. Not surprisingly there was a storm rolling in and it would be raining in 5 minutes. I almost made it around the section before the first sprinkles hit my windshield.
Nice work! Haven't been here,in a while.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I swapped in an even longer set of pushrods in hopes of quieting the valve train. These ones were 6.881" long. I also took the time to eliminate the double valve cover gaskets that were leaking. This meant I had to grind on the Mopar Performance valve covers to get them to clear the intake runners. I also put some gas in the car and it looks like something is not right with the digital gas gauge/sender setup. After I filled it up it read ZERO. I had my suspicions because I started with 50-60% fuel and then it slowly rose to 75% as I drove it. When I filled it up I only got in about 8 gallons or half a tank of fuel. Either I set the DIP switches for the gauge incorrectly or I installed the fuel tank sending unit upside down.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Saturday I had a friend come into town to visit, so I took him for a ride in the Dart. The car actually ran pretty good. We stopped by the metal recycler to put the Dart on their scale to see how much it weighed.
The reading is with close to a full tank of gas, full interior, and with the spare and jack in the trunk. I was hoping it would be a bit lighter. I may have to run the car across the certified scales at the truck stop to see how it compares.
Saturday afternoon we took part in the Rusty Wallace NASCAR experience. It was fun to buzz around the Gateway oval. On Sunday I pulled my digital Dash and flipped the DIP switches until I got a correct reading on the digital gas gauge.
The reading is with close to a full tank of gas, full interior, and with the spare and jack in the trunk. I was hoping it would be a bit lighter. I may have to run the car across the certified scales at the truck stop to see how it compares.
Saturday afternoon we took part in the Rusty Wallace NASCAR experience. It was fun to buzz around the Gateway oval. On Sunday I pulled my digital Dash and flipped the DIP switches until I got a correct reading on the digital gas gauge.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
I ordered one of the Scat low back buckets to test fit in my 67 Dart. I was really having problems with the Summit Sport seats with the gigantic side bolsters and the huge factory steeering wheel. The sport seats detracted from the low keyed look I was after. The new seat fits the theme much better.
I had the same summit sport seats in my Duster for a couple of months and took them out, I know what you mean with the side bolsters being a pita.
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